Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 Anyone looked at these at all? Interesting anyhow http://www.stewartcomponents.com/LC-SB.htm Quote: LC/SB BENEFITS: Works with all existing Calipers Weighs just one pound Prevents brake fluid boiling and caliper o-ring failure Firmer brake pedal response Reduced brake rotor temperatures Reduced brake pad wear Allows for quick initial system bleed Liquid Cooled The LC/SB cools the brake calipers by circulating a large volume of brake fluid through the calipers. Caliper heat is dissipated through cooling lines installed between the calipers and the master cylinder. Brake rotor temperature and pad wear is also reduced because the caliper 0-rings are cooled as well, allowing them to retract the pistons and establish a slight air gap between the rotor and pad. The system operates well below the fluid boiling point, so air bubbles caused by boiling are eliminated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 That's a hell of a good idea. Overkill for a street car though I think..... Never again building up sediment in brake system would kick much ass though! The plumbing is a PITA, and 2 brake hoses per wheel gets cumbersome and whatnot also. But a hell of an idea, wish I had thought of it! ------------------ Morgan morgan@z31.com http://carfiche.com http://z31.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 Yeah, the NASCAR guys use that setup. I agree it would be overkill unless you do 10/10 driving on a road course. Another product they had is the LBS - Lock resistant brake system. It's a dampener you put in line to the rear brakes. What it does is delay the full brake hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes to get away from shocking the rear tires into a slide when you stand on them. Their theory is that you don't need a brake proportioning valve, just an LBS (I think the LC/SB has this function as well). I put one on, after I had already put a proportioning valve in line (on the tunnel, underneath the driver's knee). Like everything else, I'll have to wait to test it out. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 12, 2000 Author Share Posted September 12, 2000 quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Yeah, the NASCAR guys use that setup. I agree it would be overkill unless you do 10/10 driving on a road course. Another product they had is the LBS - Lock resistant brake system. It's a dampener you put in line to the rear brakes. What it does is delay the full brake hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes to get away from shocking the rear tires into a slide when you stand on them. Their theory is that you don't need a brake proportioning valve, just an LBS (I think the LC/SB has this function as well). I put one on, after I had already put a proportioning valve in line (on the tunnel, underneath the driver's knee). Like everything else, I'll have to wait to test it out. Are you sure the 'dampener' could take a bias valve's place? I read what they had as well. I can see it taking out 'spikes' like a filter/dampener but overall it won't change the eventual total PSI heading to that specific end of the brake line, just prevent a v. sharp change was my thinking. ie. long braking from 140mph-60mph, you're into brakes for a second or so and their's plenty of time to 'max' the pressure going to your rear line etc......if it does in fact take a bias valve's place that'd be great, I can't see a mechanical piece that's non-adjustable doing that though on a unique/altered brake setup (ie. non-oem)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 No, it doesn't cut down the steady state pressure. Their theory is that rear wheel lockup is due to the sharp spike in braking on rear tires that have just been unloaded do to weight transfer. I wonder if there is any info from the stock car set (that isn't classified) on this topic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted September 12, 2000 Author Share Posted September 12, 2000 quote: Originally posted by pparaska: No, it doesn't cut down the steady state pressure. Their theory is that rear wheel lockup is due to the sharp spike in braking on rear tires that have just been unloaded do to weight transfer. I wonder if there is any info from the stock car set (that isn't classified) on this topic. Pete, have you been to an autox and seen well prepared cars sorting out brake bias? It's not an 'instant' action, no one stomps their brakes, they get sqeezed like throttles (in roadracing anyhow) and you want to reach/find that point where your rear brakes lock up just before your front brakes for optimal bias. This gives you maximum warning if you're good without losing steering control. You'll often see one of these 'sweet' autox cars briefly lockup the rears, sorta like Grand Prix cars going to 10/10 on braking scale briefly as their wheel stops and then carries on, but we go 10/10 to find that point and then usually 9.5/10 from then on (for v. skilled drivers, rest of us 9/10 or so). If one had such a system that you knew would only give max. braking and no lockup we'd be diving into those corners like Porsches with their fine balance/braking ABS doing trail braking etc. In short I feel that lockup isn't due to a 'stomp' condition except from a rookie/untaught reaction and that the rear lockup function when set right is a valuable 'threshold' instrument. Ross (driving's 5% car, and 95% driver, only 90% left to learn) C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted September 12, 2000 Share Posted September 12, 2000 theres lots of different brake recirculation stuff around.-DPI, OUtlaw, Stewart, to name a few make a style of one. i can get a fluid recirculator for the outlaw calipers that lets the fluid flow thru and it also does self bleeding. they are $170 to do the car and they are almost NEVER used ont he rears. i see them on the front a lot . esp on the heavier cars . this isnt necessary at all on a street car. you would need to be at the point of boiling your brake fluid to go to this step. already using cooling ducts as well and bleeding the fluid each weekend. and OBVIOUSLY you would already have at least a 1.25" rotor and 4 piston alum billet calipers! i dont even use it on the GT4 car but its on a few GT2 cars. ------------------ Mike http://www.fonebooth.com raceparts and brakeupgrades Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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