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LT1 Fuel Injection Conversion, best way??


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Guest Anonymous

Hey, I have a 1996 LT1 long block and was wondering how the best way to run fuel injection would be. I have the manifold to put a carb on the engine and was wondering if a holley projection system would be good.

 

I was also thinking about going with stock fuel injection. What would be the best way to put that in the car? What all would I need other than the manifold and injectors? Like sensors and stuff. How would the wiring be setup for the car so that I don't have to worry about puting emissions and stuff on there? I would need a reprogrammed computer right? I saw painless wiring sells a wiring harness for the LT1 and was wondering what the advantages of that are. I plan on running a T-56 with it too. Any help from people that have done this before is appreciated. Thanks

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You could go either way. You could use an aftermarket system like my Edelbrock Pro-Flo, but you may have to redrill the mounting holes to fit the LT1. Or go to the scrap yard and pull a stock unit, with the wiring, sensors, and computer. Then you could use the stock wiring and clip off the wires you don't need, or get an aftermarket wiring harness ( this would be easier)

 

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http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html

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I think it would be a lot of trouble to hunt down and connect the stock FI components if you don't already have them. Much easier just to buy a used engine with everything still attached.

As for emissions, I've heard the smog pump can be removed without having any computer problems. Im not sure if its a good idea to remove the exhaust gas return.

 

One nice thing about the stock system is that you can reprogram the LT1's computer yourself with the appropriate software and cable, monitor the engine, and do data logging with the aid of a laptop.

http://www.carputing.com/

 

There is also a cheaper (shareware) program for the OBDI computer but I cannot remember the link.

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Guest Anonymous

Ah yes. I plan on using LT1-Edit for my 76 280Z / 95 Corvette LT-1 monster too.

I have built the interface and will get the software when I get to that point...

REad this: http://members.tripod.com/CarProgrammer/Z28.html

And ... here: http://lt1.net/editor/

 

Very cool stuff. And it gives you an immense amount of flexibility compared to Hypertech programmers and such. Also, if you have VATS, I believe LT1-edit will let you remove that from your computer. VATS is the security system that is based on a special resistive chip planted in your car key. Obviously if you are doing a conversion you want to ditch this.

Not sure what all cars had this, but the 95 Vette (which is where I got my motor/trans) definately does.

 

- Rob www.gatewayzclub.com

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i have a 94 lt1 hareness on the living room floor .it has MANY wires and i am waiting for a manual from helm to figure them out.in this case i would probably get an sds system and connect it to oem manifold and fuel rails.those aftermarkit harness arent cheap for some of the apps.the painless wireing harness for the car i am working on is $700.

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The Helm manual is expensive, but will make life a lot easier in the end. For the amount of material you get, its really a bargain compared to the average college textbook.

 

I found a site with a few documented LT1 swaps: http://350.streetracing.org/lt1.html

 

If you go to page 3, he covers basic LT1 wiring. According to him, If everything is plugged in where it should be (most connectors will only fit the correct place), it just takes 12V power on a few wires to start the car. I didn't understand what the page meant until my manual came, but when it did, I was a little upset for having bought it so quickly. His page covered just about everything. The multiple 12V switched wires connect to different fuse values. I haven't tried starting the engine yet though.

 

About the VATS, if you are adventurous and do not have a Corvette engine, the JTR FI manual suggests building a simple circuit from Radio Shack to send the fuel enable signal. I know very little about electronics, but it looks easy to build (1 capacitor, 1 resistor, and this chip you buy). I don't think you need any special tuning equipment (an oscilloscope) if you buy precision components. I decided to play it safe and bought the proper GM module from a junkyard for $25, but I'll still have to guess the proper resistance value to make it work. If the JTR information is correct, it looks much easier and cheaper to build the radio shack circuit.

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I just put an new LT1 in my trans am this weekend... Here is the deal... I bought a complete lt1 with wiring harness and computer and all the accessories. I got it delivered for 2100.00... with everthing still attached to the motor you will have

to connect your large power wires to the block and starter.. then mount the stock GM computer. from that computer you have 4 plugs that go into the car and plug in under the dash... If you get a schematic you should be able to hook those up easily.

 

1 is for your diagnostics plug

1 is for your guages

1 is for your ignition/starter

the last is a very small 2 wire plug and looks like it plugs into the fan motor...

 

the bad news about my deal this weekend

is that after i did all this my budy

was at the swap meet and found 2 complete

LT1's with everthing for 800.00 each...

 

Myron

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quote:

Originally posted by swat5444:

Hey, I have a 1996 LT1 long block and was wondering how the best way to run fuel injection would be. I have the manifold to put a carb on the engine and was wondering if a holley projection system would be good.

 

Your best way is to get the OEM EFI setup and install it. If you do a cam swap and a few other easy hp items on that motor (head gasket to 10.4:1/roller rocker ratio) the ECU can be reprogrammed if you find it necessary. Holley projection is TBI and NOWHERE near what tpi can be for efficiency or power. You'd pay more for a TPI unit and the OE stuff is plug'n'play. Proflo won't properly mate to your heads and even mild machining to match would knock out any potential gains. Some time spent if you want to minimize the wiring harness but well spent and only done once. Then whatever you do after that is already documented. Friends in the nw are quite experienced at it and involved on the LT1edit list as well.

 

I only wish the OE Lt1 EFI bolted on older setups easier. They're putting 300+rwhp easily on many setups. All upgrades req'd to higher levels well documented as mentioned. You should be able to find the EFI setup quite cheap from some AS racers (they have to run fuel leaks/carbs) running 4th gen's.

 

just found the link to Ron's setup, my dad now has this setup in his 240Z http://www.datsuns.com/cars/rontyler.htm

 

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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

 

[This message has been edited by Ross C (edited February 19, 2001).]

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