Heat Soak Problem

[Guest vanir97]

I read the search results, got some good info, but want a quick answer. My car 355 SBC/block huggers/ will not start for at least 1+ hrs after a short ride (half hour give ot take) I have:

 

1. double wrapped the exhaust pipes on passenger side from header connector

2. will wrap headers tonite

3. In process of buying the remote solenoid

 

Now here is my question. In one of the posts it mentioned running a 10ga wire from the "s" or I terminal up to near the battery (mine is located in the engine compartment). When you have the heat soak no start problem, you touch the end to the + battery terminal, if your motor turns over then the remote solenoid will help your situation. Couldn't i just connect this wire to a starter button inside the car and use that setup to start the car. it is the same as hot wiring to start a car.

 

This problem is driving me crazy. I have an extremely fast car that I cannot enjoy because I can't shut the thing off because it won't start again.

 

I have read evry post about this problem from cutting vent holes to "muffin fans" I just want this car to start instaed of just "clicking"

[Mike kZ]

What kind of starter do you have? A gear drive starter should solve your problem.

[Guest vanir97]

regular mini starter (SUMMIT) where

[Guest vanir97]

Summit mini high torque starter. where can I get a gear drive for a SBC and are they $$$$

[Guest vanir97]

starter is a summit mini/high torque with solenoid parked on top about 3" away from the collector.

 

where can I get a gear drive starter for a SBC and are they mucho $$$$$

[Pop N Wood]

The whole point of the remote solenoid is to bypass all the resistance in the key start circuit and to get a full 12 volts to the S terminal. The wire from the key switch has enough amps to hold the remote solenoid in the full start position, but maybe not enough amps to force the one on the starter into the full start position. Your idea of a second switch will work, but you would want to use a completely separate switch (i.e. nothing off the key). If I were you I would just put in the remote solenoid, since this does the same thing.

 

Don't overlook the obvious either. How old is your current battery and when was the last time you wire brushed the terminals? Are your engine grounds making good electrical contact (i.e. no rust or paint under the ground connections)?

[Mike kZ]

starter is a summit mini/high torque with solenoid parked on top about 3" away from the collector.

 

where can I get a gear drive starter for a SBC and are they mucho $$$$$

 

Same thing, you already got one. Like Pop n Wood said, check your connections, make sure you have good grounds from block to body, back to battery

[Scottie-GNZ]

This is a fairly common problem with GM starters. I just went through the same problem and corrected it in a different manner. Not sure if my problem or resolution will apply but here it is anyway.

 

I have a relocated battery (Optima Red Top) and LT1 mini-starter on my Buick V-6. I had the Mazda starter solenoid trigger wire actually triggering another relay to send a 10G wire to the starter solenoid and still had hot start problems. I solved it by using a Ford (sacrilige ) starter solenoid. This works great for me because I had a 0-1 G cable running from the battery to a junction block on the firewall where everything, including the starter lead, fed off. The Ford solenoid relaced both the junction block and the additional relay and eliminates the voltage drop when things get toasty. have not had a problem since.

[GabeRoc]

scottie is on the right track with the ford soleniod.

a friend of mine had an F-body that had the same trouble. we shorted out the started mounted solenoid and used the ford in it's place. it was a 15 minute job once the car cooled. his car never had heat soak problems agian.

check with some of the 3rd gen F-body people, they know the drill and can explain it a lot better than i can with 2 years of rust on how it worked.