Drax240z Posted November 11, 2000 Share Posted November 11, 2000 Well its going pretty good. I just have a couple of questions for anyone... - Removal of old control arm bushings: Torch/hacksaw/drill? or is there an easier way? - Steering Knuckles... can't for the life of me turn any of the 4 bolts on the 2 knuckles to get them off. Sat there with the impact on them for 5 minutes each, tried a breaker bar. Any tips? (I guess heat is next) - Also wondering if lower ball joints are usually supposed to be replaced every time their apart? How do you check them for wear? Thanks all... ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted November 11, 2000 Share Posted November 11, 2000 With no hyd. press, you either drill the bushings out or burn them out. Both take ever. What I did was to use a pulley remover to force the metal sleeve out and then grind with a dremel or burn the inside out. See, http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/mods.htm It helps to drill around the center sleeve first with a small drill bit. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 11, 2000 Share Posted November 11, 2000 Drax, When I removed my old bushings I used a hole saw drill bit. It cut them out like a knife in warm butter. I then used a small wire wheel to remove the excess rubber from the inner sleeve. I did try a propane torch & it worked but it took a while & the fumes were heavy. With the torch it still required the wire wheel. I don't know if the heat from the torch was bad for the control arm. The metal was glowing. Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted November 11, 2000 Share Posted November 11, 2000 use the jack handle on the end of the breaker bar for extra leverage and you should be able to break the strut bolts loose. as far as the a-arm bushings easiest is a torch to melt them out then cut a line in the outer sleeve and then use a air chisel to remove the sleeve. ball joints: you need to check for sloppyness by feel and rough spots - if either they are junk, ripped boots? then junk. the proper way to check play is by loading the joint and looking for play vertically.if you see it move its worn out. this is checked witha big pry bar and the suspension in the car and a jack holding the weight on the ball joint. ------------------ Mike mike@fonebooth.com http://www.fonebooth.com/brakes.html raceparts and brake upgrades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted November 11, 2000 Author Share Posted November 11, 2000 OK, a little elbow grease and a 6' extension on the breaker bar and mission accomplished. I've pulled apart the ball joints now, and am examining them. The have a chrome finish, no large scuff marks or abrasions. But they do have a "grey" area around them in a ring, it looks like possibly the chrome wore off. Maybe its designed that way, I'm not sure. Can anyone lend some more insight? ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.