Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 A coworker of mine used to race on the dirt track we have here in town. He sold his car to someother guy. This guy had a new engine built by a reputable racing shop in town. Since he put so much into the engine he couldn't afford to pay my friend back, so now my friend repoed the car, trailer and motor. This is what I know of the engine so far (He'll get me a spec sheet later this week): It is a chevy 355 with a steel crank, forged pistons, Isky cam, 10.5:1 comp, Torquer Heads (not sure if cast or alum), RPM Performer Manifold, 750cfm carb with vacuum secondaries, aluminum water pump. It supposedly makes around 425hp (no idea on torque) I don't know the name of the brands useds except where I listed. He has raced this motor for less than a season. Oh it also has a circle track pan which needs to be changed. My friend told me that this guy put about $6000. He is selling it for $2000. Considering I get what I pay for, does this sound like a deal I shouldn't pass up? Also I get the trailer that needs minor work for around $1300. What do ya think? ------------------ Chris [This message has been edited by Razor (edited February 21, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 Oh and another thing. With a 10.5:1 compression, could I use NOS without any additional mods? Is it like supercharging? the lower the comp the better? sheesh, I feel so dumb... ------------------ Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 Compression might be a touch high on the street if it's got iron heads. Try to find out what rods it's got. Overall it sounds damned nice for $2K IMO - I've got something like $4K in my 383 and it should make HP righ tabout where that one does - but I know I've got aluminum heads. How much wear is it likely to have suffered in a season of racing? Will the cam need to come out for the street? I'm not sure it's got a full $6K in it judging from what I put into mine but I wouldn't be surprised if it's got a good $4K in it at least. Post the spec sheet as soon as you've got it - you may have a winner there. Oh, the NOS... I'd be VERY careful with compression that's that high unless the heads are aluminum and even then... Frankly, with 425 horse will you really need NOS? Well okay - I've talked about it too I'll admit I THINK that NOS can handle the higher compressions better than say a turbo since it will really cool the charge. I'd say run the 400+ HP first and then decide if you really want NOS - this is what I'm going to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 The compression is on the high end of streetability--you will haveto run premium gas (no biggie) and there is an outside chance that you will possibly have to use an octane booster. If your engine was built properly with adequate heads, this might not be an issue. You will want to have a good solid ignition system too. The engine sounds like its a winner and a VERY good deal. I have a little less $$ in my engine, but have over 150 hp less (groan). Think about it! Sounds like a deal to me. If you don't purchase it, can we beat you with a rubber hose? [This message has been edited by DavyZ (edited February 22, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 even if the compression is high and it has iron heads it could work out VERY good if you flip the heads and buy some appropriate aluminum ones IF you know you can get a decent street compression (I run 9.4:1 with aluminum heads on 87octane all year round . Likely some decent $ by flipping that pan as well I wouldn't be afraid of a used motor. See if you can run it or check the oil/drain plug if it wasn't just serviced to see if any metal wear at all etc. Just mic'd my 'old' 327 and a few bores had <.5 of a thou wear in them max was <1.5 in a few as well surprised me big time for such unknown history.......found out my metal on my drain plug was from a flat lobe on my cam that I never knew about till today when I went to sell it;^) Uh.....I was only looking at the new one I was installing, not the old one that came out.....so that's how I put a pushrod thru a rocker arm;^) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 Razor, if you decide to dump the heads, just send them my way David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Bayley Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 Razor, I wouldn't worry to much about spraying (N2O) something with 10.5:1 compression. Heck, a lot of dragsters are locally running 12.5:1 compression big blocks with IRON heads and are spraying up to 500hp I run a buck and a quater on 10:1 compression with Al. heads and I've never had any problems. Even ran it on 87 octane once. Needless to say, that's the last time I let my old man fill up the tank (thanks for the gas Dad... but did you forget about something?) -Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 yes, thats a good deal, run it as is, run 93 octane when you drive it and the purple CAM2 when you spray it:d Those heads are iron. Are you going to run an automatic, or a stick? If you are running a stick, be vary careful when you spray it, maybe put a WOT switch on it so it doesn't go boom if you miss a gear! TRUST ME, nitrous can be a killa, but now it is my friend. I don't use it anymore, but thats becuase I sold that motor to my brother (2 stages, a plate and a fogger) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 Jamie - honestly to run NOS I'd do more than a WOT switch... I'd go with a "window switch" from MSD that will set both turn on and off RPM, a fuel pressure switch, AND a WOT switch. MAke sure it kills the NOS before the spark too or BOOM! It's supposed ot be safe if you install it carefully, tune conservatively, and maintenance (sp?!) the solenoids occasionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 24, 2001 Share Posted February 24, 2001 Well, I went by to take a look at the engine today. I still don't have all the info on it yet though. The engine seems to be in good order. I didn't check for any metal in the oil (didn't occur to me) yet. It's out of the car so it can't be run. I found out it has 289 cast iron torquer heads that had a fair amount of work done to them. If I do get this motor, I'd probably keep the heads for a good while..no sense to me in putting others on (I should just rebuild the 350 that I have now). It also has a solid roller cam. He told me that you have to reset the lash (no clue what it means heh) on it regularly. Should I change to a hydraulic roller cam to not have to do this? I'd have to put an accessory drive bracket plate as well. It comes with a power steering pump too. All in all I figure it's a good "starter" motor for this thing . Currently I have a 700R4 tranny, but will later this year switch to a manual. Thanks for the advice guys, I think I'll do it. ------------------ Chris [This message has been edited by Razor (edited February 23, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 24, 2001 Share Posted February 24, 2001 Good point BLKMGK, especially for some one new to Nitrous. When I had the Nitrous habit, I used many electronic devises to control on/off, the MSD rpm switch worked fine, I also used a multi step retard, later I used a progressive controller, but I ultimatly prefer a WOT switch because you still control it, I mean how many things can you think about in 9 seconds! Razer, setting valve lash is simply adjusting the rocker arms so there is some play(only alittle) about .025"-.028" between the rocker arms and the valve tip, depending on the combo and what the cam manufacturer recommends. Valve lash can also be used to tune an engine, the tighter the lash the more lift the valve sees, but not too tight! You use feeler gauges between the rocker arm and the valve tip. Easy huh, plenty of peopl run solid cams on the street but they are a pain in the you know what, and are very noisy. Like I said in the earlier reply, RUN IT!!! and Drive it like you stole it!!! [This message has been edited by JAMIE T (edited February 23, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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