Turbo swap whoas... "NO SPARK"...

[SonOfZZZap]

Hi,

 

First off I've done my fair share of searching before I EVER post an inquiry on here. So that being said, I have yet to find out what exactly is causing my no spark problem; here's the story so far.

 

I have a 77 280Z that myself and a mechanic friend installed an L28ET (82 model) into early this week. Since then I've installed most parts back into the bay and started wiring 2 days ago. Friday night we worked around getting our constants and switched power hook-ups into the efi harness (got the green light on the ecu) and then proceeded to the ignition harness. after no spark friday night we continued to troubleshoot the problem and found better switched power which didn't help the problem. At first we thought perhaps the blaster 2 coil I was using could be bad, so we tried the stock coil which I KNOW worked. (I got the donor car running before pulling it out). The only other possible explanation is that the ignitor is bad (though like I said, the donor car ran).

 

Here's how everything is connected...

 

 

 

 

I've tested all connections that need the switched power for continuity and everything checks out.

 

It could very well be that I wired something incorrectly, so all input is welcome.

 

Thanks guys, wish me luck as I keep troubleshooting.

 

-Zzzap

[colerongo]

i am having the same problem. i can't help you out, but let me know what you find out. if i get it figured out i will be sure to send you a message.

[SonOfZZZap]

ditto man, I'm looking into it more today, I'll be sure to let you know if anything goes well.

[mobythevan]

The easiest way to start on no spark problems with the turbo swap is to divide the problem. Check to see if the yellow/white wire pulses from the ECU during cranking(using a light). That way you know whether it may be a inhibit wire missing to the ECU, or coil wiring that is wrong. Is the GL inhibit wire tied to let the ECU spark?

 

You need to get a Haynes manual for '79 to '83 280ZX. This is the one with the red cover. Look on page 252, this is the wiring diagram. You will see 3 plugs labeled "1,2,3" with circles around the numbers. This is at the lower left-hand side of the page.

 

The wires are as follows:

 

Plug 1=

BR 12v power source. Positive

G 12v power source. Positive

 

Plug 2=

Y start signal (+)

GL ground for inhibitor switch

YW speed sensor (not necessary)

Y A/C signal (+)

YW coil (-) (must use ignitor)

B fuel pump ground if using modulator

 

Plug 3=

LR fuel pump relay

G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator

W not used

Y not used

BW ignition signal (+)

[Turbo280Z]

i found another way to test the ignitor. put the key in the ON position and on the dizzy take the cap off and pull it out but make sure u dont lose where it goes and put ur coild wire close to a piece of metal i used the bracket for the throttle spring and u turn it. if its all good u should hear the injectors tick and see the spark. and thats where i got with my turbo swap. it ran for a while then i think my ignitor went out.

 

i also herd it could be the CAS went bad.

 

if i figure anyhing out ill let u guys know

[colerongo]

hey, i don't know if this is the problem with your setup, but i figured mine out. i thought maybe my ignitor wasn't working properly but it is. I had the switched power going from the ignitor to the coil possitive as well as the switched power from the original car's harness onto the coil possitive. they grounded eachother out or something like that and the coil had no power. i just unplugged the one from the original harness and i had spark. just like that. now i have to get new injectors though because half of them are totally f###ed. let me know if you did the same thing. if not my guess would be that your ignitor is faulty.

[SonOfZZZap]

Well no luck with the spark.

 

cleaned up all the wiring for the ignition and replaced the ignitor. No luck with getting it to start. My fuel pressure is also zip (even though my new relay is sending power to pump... traced it all the way back and tested with my light). Ecu gives me the go light and still, nothing. I hope my CAS isnt bad because it is over 300 bucks to replace for a new one.. Im moving to Houston TX in 10 DAYS... I have to get this heap running again and im at a point where my luck has run out.

 

still trying to figure it out...

 

~ZZZap

[colerongo]

is your pump working at all? if its working, where do you not have fuel pressure? before the pressure regulator or after. I had my pump's fuel out hooked up to the rail's fuel out and the rail's fuel in hooked up to the return line to the tank. this made it so that i had pressure until the regulator but not after. I just switched them and i had pressure all the way to my injectors. I don't know what to tell you about the no spark issue though. it sounds like you have everything hooked up right to me. it must be a bad cas. let me know. maybe you should bring it to a mechanic and see what he says.

[SonOfZZZap]

Well I got the fuel pump working fine. and fuel pressure is good. STILL no spark. Again here is how everything is wired.

 

ON NEW IGNITOR:

 

BW switched

YW going to connector which connects into the ecu

 

on connector:

 

Pin 1 YW to ignitor

Pin 2 Y switched power

GL Ground

YL Ground

 

am I missing anything?

[colerongo]

i'm not totally sure, but i think that the yw to the ignitor should be from pin #5 not #1. there are two yw wires on plug 2, you have to have the correct one. i don't think you need the one from pin#1 at all. when i go home this afternoon i'll check my car and let you know for sure though. everything else sounds ok though.