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Crank damper: Replace or wait?


280Z Turbo

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A thread over at Zcar.com got me thinking about my crank pulley. It's a rather complicated problem...

 

I recently took it off and noticed that it had some tiny cracks in the rubber, although I've noticed no chunking off or anything of that nature. When I put it back on, I plan to Loctite it, which would make it hard to get off again. I don't typically wind the thing out, but I know that a good damper is important on an L6.

 

I don't want to get a new pulley from Nissan because it's $150 and still has 2 pulleys that I don't need/want and won't fix my clearance problem with my $80 16" electric fan. I have considered chopping the damper (see my previous post), but from everything I've read, modifying a crank damper is a no-no.

 

What makes this even more complicated is that the 81 needs that silly magnetic wheel on the back of the damper for the ECCS to work properly. I could remedy this by getting the 82-83 photoelectric dizzy, but that's even more money dumped into it. Although, I have been considering a Z31 MAF swap anyway.

 

The Euro damper would have worked great with a new dizzy, but Nissan stopped making it.

 

I recently acquired over $1000 at my graduation open house, but I don't really want to spend that much of it on my Z. Well, I do, but I know better.:wink: Although, I will be working this summer. Also factor in that I haven't driven my car since October and I'm very tired of waiting.

 

I'm not really sure what I should do.

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If the motor was running fine then the outer ring has not likely rotated due to separation. I'd mark the hub and the outer ring with a center punch as a reference should things move later on. If the hub fits snuggly on the crank then I'd be reluctant to use locktite. If you do then only use green or blue...not the red!

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Age/UV has an impact on damper condition. The bigger issues are high rpm's, damage from incorrect removal/installation or oil saturation due to a leaky front seal. My comment about the 'red' locktite was regarding the difficulty of removal. Heat certainly helps to break the bond but it also affects the front seal and damper rubber too.

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