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cygnusx1 last won the day on March 17 2015

cygnusx1 had the most liked content!

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About cygnusx1

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  • Birthday 07/15/1968

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    Hudson Valley, NY

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  1. what wheels are these along with size and offset.  also what tires are you running. 


  2. Using the 77/78 280Z seat rails under older Miata seats. Open up the rear most rail mount hole of the Z seat rails a bit for wiggle room. Drill a new hole in the forward part of the rail to match the alignment of the threaded holes in the new seat bottom. You need to beat down the underside of the seat metal for clearance, but you can use spacers to compensate some to get more clearance for the lever mechanism. The more spacers you use, the less you need to beat the seat down, but your seat height will be higher in the car as a result. I beat down the seats for both rails, even though you only need clearance on the adjuster side. Doing it on both sides makes the cushion feel more symmetric to your rear-end later. I found a happy medium of spacers and hammering, which puts the seats about 3/4" higher than the stock bottoms, but at a much more comfortable lean angle than stockers. You will need to adjust the width, left to right distance between the rails a little with a hammer, dremmel, file, or leverage. It's pretty easy to move them +/- 3/4" in either direction just by leveraging them after they have been mounted, especially if you used spacers. The seat metal is pretty soft and allows flex left to right of each rail for very easy alignment to the floor mounting holes in the car.
  3. Wow glad my maps are helping out! Been a long time.
  4. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/30-turbo-engine-flow-map-calculator/
  5. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/file/4-turbo-swap-wiring-diagram/
  6. Version rev1


    Input the yellow fields. Take the results to a Turbo Flow Map and see where you stand. This will help you design an engine and turbo that work well together.
  7. I have successfully performed two L28ET into S30 swaps. Both were into 280Z but my experience in both cases revealed faulty ECCS connectors. Horrible running, popping, poor idle, rev-limiting, lean running, all of the above are symptoms of bad connection at the two ECCS plugs. When you get to that point, push and pull each wire, directly at the back of the connectors, with the car running, and you will instantly identify the problem areas. Adding dielectric grease, and carefuly "preloading" the pins in the ECCS connector by slightly bending them to one side, seems to alleviate the issues. Not sure if it helps, but I have a pretty simple wiring schematic for the swaps over in the downloads section of hybridz. http://forums.hybridz.org/files/download/4-turbo-swap-wiring-diagram/
  8. BUMP $850 picked up. Lets go! This is a honey of a motor.
  9. About 15 years. It has been in a climate controlled storage facility, and was oiled when it was put away. It turns fine.
  10. I just located an L28ET, I think it's 1981. It had 40K miles on it when it was pulled and put into a storage facility. Cylinders were oiled when it was put into storage. I tried to take some photos but they aren't great. It's tucked into a tight space. Pick-up or send a truck to pick it up. Location NJ. Complete engine with auto-flywheel. No harness, but all injection parts are on motor. No fan. $1200 picked up. PM me.
  11. Yarn stood right up after I added the air trip device. Heat pours out at idle. Not sure how much it does to relieve hood pressure, but you can gain leaps and bounds there by simply blocking most of the nose grill.
  12. It's called cost control. If they had to test each rad, and actually fix it like I fixed mine, they would have a different badge on the car, and it would cost more.
  13. Because I can just about reach the oil drain plug from over the fender....from either side! Sooo much room.
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