L28/L28ET crank damper interchange?

[cygnusx1]

It looks like my L28ET damper finally let go. I thought my timing chain loosened up by the metallic clanging noise up front. I checked the chain and all is well. I noticed that the crank damper has alot of movement to it when I grab a belt and pull on it. I am now assuming that the rubber let loose and it's knocking around a little. I am about to pull it off.

 

I have a crank damper from my L28 sitting around that looks to be in decent shape. Should it work on the L28ET?

 

Update: There is about 20 degrees of freeplay where the damper bolts to the pulley...I hope the keyway in the crank is not worn. We will see in about 20 minutes. I think the rubber damper material is still OK but one of the keyways or key is worn.

[drzed]

I'm probably a little late (5 hrs) but better late than never eh? So by now my guess is that you are looking at the end of your crank and wondering if it is useable.

 

If it is not damaged yes the L28 damper will interchange.

 

If it is damaged but not too bad you might be able to get away with it for a while until you have time to change out the crankshaft. I've had this happen before on my 240Z and I reinstalled another key and damper and welded it on the end of the crank. Not the best idea but the crank is junk anyway and I didn't have time to change the crank - still in and working after several years. You still need to install the bolt and I would locktite it with the highest grade locktite and then let it sit overnight.

 

Then cross your fingers and check it often to see if it's still holding.

 

Good luck

[olie05]

I'm probably a little late (5 hrs) but better late than never eh? So by now my guess is that you are looking at the end of your crank and wondering if it is useable.

 

If it is not damaged yes the L28 damper will interchange.

 

If it is damaged but not too bad you might be able to get away with it for a while until you have time to change out the crankshaft. I've had this happen before on my 240Z and I reinstalled another key and damper and welded it on the end of the crank. Not the best idea but the crank is junk anyway and I didn't have time to change the crank - still in and working after several years. You still need to install the bolt and I would locktite it with the highest grade locktite and then let it sit overnight.

 

Good luck

 

you won't be able to get the front cover off of the crank without undoing those welds.

[drzed]

The welds get ground off and then you throw the damper and crank away and start over again - well at least in my case!

[cygnusx1]

Grrr, Actually you are not late, I waited, I didn't get it off last night. I worked on brakes instead. I will pull it off this morning and hopefully the keyway in the crank isn't worn and it's just the key or the pulley worn out. Fingers crossed.

[cygnusx1]

Yuck! I pulled the pulley off and of course I didn't need a puller, it was so lose. The key was all worn and the keyway in the crank was widened a bit. The back of the pulley had a crack running right along the keyway. What an ugly scene.

 

I went over to my original motor on the floor and pulled the L28 pulley. It's a bit smaller and lighter but dimensionally it fits. I used the L28 key and pulley on the L28ET motor. I need to get a shorter A/C belt because the pulley is smaller. The pulley went on very tightly, I had to hammer the socket drive to get it to press onto the front of the crank. Once it was about 3/4 of the way on, the bolt got looser and I was able to use my hand on the wrench. I guess it had to pass a burr. I hope it didn't push the key back! Oh well, "whatever", at this point. It runs good and is quiet. I put some locktite around the pulley ID and hammered the socket for final torque. Cross fingers please. If it gives me trouble now the only option I have is to pull the motor. I am NOT looking forward to that.