BLKMGK Posted December 18, 2000 Share Posted December 18, 2000 Well, today it was up to 40degrees out, time to get some work done! Spent SEVERAl hours in the garage. Looking through my Haynes manual I came to the awful realization that to pull the entire rear like I wanted I'd have to pull the ends of the lower control arms - the dreaded pins! Gee says I, how bad could it be? My rear suspension isn't all rusted up, it shouldn't be bad. Doh! Passenger side nuts zip right off, I bang on the pin and it barely moves. Long story short - I mushroomed it, bent it, but finally got it out. Do NOT use heat on the pin as it's too tight a fit, it will expand and lock into the sleeves. Passenger side swaybar bolt had to be sawzsalled off too dammit! Driver's side. Bolt zips right off, locking pin was slightly sticky. Bang on pin, it moves a bit, bang it again with a "drift" and out it comes. Swaybar bolt comes right off! Rear on the ground, out of the car! Exhaust hanger had to be sawzalled and I found a giant exhaust leak too. Previous owner did some seriously funky exhaust work here - to include TWO mufflers AND a resonator?! Next up will be removing the rear struts and starting the coilover work. I'm waiting for new seals to be put into my LSD and then I'll swap that in on my garage floor. I've got an aluminum brace so I can keep the finned cover Tips on this part much appreciated as I've not yet been able to visualize how it'll go together (shiver). This is a '72 and I've got a new mustache bar but am not yet sure I need it. We'll see - I'm feeling my way along here and would appreciate some tips. I'll put up some pics as soon as I can, camera has stopped cooperating again (grr). Naturally I forgot to measure the ride height when I started so it may take some trial and error to get the car to sit right when I'm done. Will be doing brakes while I'm at it starting with the rear. I take it that once I've pulled the struts etc. that I'll be looking at a full on alignment, yes? Will pull drum junk of tomorrow night maybe, time allowing. Need to pull out SCCA's boxes, find the instructions, and scope out what's next. I figure I'll be able to do brakes without the rest of the rear in the car - after the coilovers, yes? I'll be doing the outer poly bushings as well (shiver). I can already see that VB or Motorsport will be sending me some "toys" to replace the ones I've broken. Fun Fun! Yes, this is the first time I've pulled apart the Z rear suspension. I've changed the inner bushings to poly but that was it. This is a whole lot different than what I'm used to and I'm flying a bit blind but making progress. WooHoo! ------------------ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arif Posted December 18, 2000 Share Posted December 18, 2000 BLK, I swapped my R180 for a R200 LSD a few weeks ago. I highly recommend AIR TOOLS! It took me about 2 weeks (everyday after work) to get it done. Mainly because I also swapped out my struts and springs on all four corners and went to the junk yard for a few items. The air tools really made the job a lot easier. Good luck ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted December 18, 2000 Share Posted December 18, 2000 Not sure how similar MikeSCCA's coilover kit is to GroundControl. I used the latter for my front and I put the collars smack in the center of the threaded tubes. I have small, 14" rims but large tires and that worked out nicely (pics at http://240z.jeromio.com/suspension2.html). Does anyone have a part number or at least a universally agreed upon name/description for this ornery pin? I'm just going to order a set so that I have them when I attack my suspension (hopefully next week). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 19, 2000 Author Share Posted December 19, 2000 VB sells the pins for like $29 each. If someone has a cheaper source I'm all ears as I need a pair of them NOW. If I can find a Motorsport catalog I'll be checking their price too. Bushings in the rear where the mustache mounts to the body - urethane okay back there? I seem to recall people monkeying with that to get driveshaft alignment correct so shoudl I skip the urethane or not? TIA! P.s. MSA sells the pins for $22 each. Damned locking pins are $11 and one of mine is tweaked too. Screw it, I'm going to make it right and be happy. Lot's of anti-sieze though! [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited December 18, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted December 19, 2000 Share Posted December 19, 2000 Jim, I have urethane in the Mustache bar, and I cut about 0.3 inches from the top bushing height (and about the same length off of the inner tube/sleeve) as well as left out the big thick washer in the kit. This raised the back of the diff by almost 1/2", which makes a good bit of difference over the approximate 18" of distance between the M-bar bushings and the front mount, an angle change of about 1.6 degrees, which helps the driveshaft u-joint problem by that much. (Check my site under "Driveline Mods" for more info on that) JTR suggests taking out the entire stock upper washer. That would raise it a tad more. I'd go with the cut down urethane, as if you do as JTR suggests, you have metal to metal connection = noise. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 20, 2000 Author Share Posted December 20, 2000 Need to get out there and press out the old pin bushings. When that's done I may head for the powedercoating shop and have them coated. They're fairly reasonable and I hope to not have to pull it apart this far again anytime soon! No reason why I couldn't do the strut tubes is there? Thinking solid diff mount too, I'll try to insulate it with some rubber if I can to kill the noise. Thanks for the tip(s) Pete - I'll do as you're suggesting! Metal to metal would probbaly drive me out of the car so I'd like to avoid that if I can. Will try to find a good source of thin rubber for the diff mount while I'm at it and report back. Fun Fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted December 20, 2000 Share Posted December 20, 2000 Use of some silicone lube such as Dupont's triple one silicone base lube also is a good idea to be sure the typical urethane squawks are kept to a minimum ------------------ The only stupid question is one you wanted to ask but never did!!! Drewz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 18, 2001 Author Share Posted February 18, 2001 Drew - where am I likely top find that lube? What's it normally used for? Energy sends more lube than MSA does but it may not be enough and I'd like to be using tons of it instead of dribs and drabs. Thanks! Oh and Pete I did find this thread after I'd asked and did your mod - thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted February 18, 2001 Share Posted February 18, 2001 Those pins are called "Spindles" by Nissan. If you're a Z Car Club Member they give you a discount. I believe mine were like $15 or $16 a piece after tax. Courtesy Nissan also sells a video; about 2.5hours long regarding the Energy Steering/Suspension/Struts Overhaul & also shows how to Renew the Steering Rack. I purchased this video first & saw how fun (Difficult) it would be to remove those pins w/out damaging them...just bought new ones before attempting the job. One thing I did on the lower control arm bushings. After removing the old rubber (if you're using the Energy Suspension Kit) you'll have to (Suppose to) hacksaw the inner metal sleeves out. These are the sleeves separating the rubber bushing from the lower control arm metal housing; instead of hacksawing I used an air chisel.....very carefully & I mean very,very very slowly to push out the metal liners; Guess I'm to impatient to do the hacksaw thing. Oh, & when you're putting your Struts back together; make sure you put some oil in the tubes before final instal. I had the entire rear suspension back together before I realized I forgot to put some oil in the left rear side strut. As pathologically focussed (Anal Retentive) as I am; I removed the strut & did it right...and then reinstalled the strut & complete rear suspension; again. Suppose doing it only once would have been to easy. You cant get those pins out easy; there's no way. I used a torch, a vise and a lot of elbow grease. The video suggests using a Press & if you dont have one taking it to your machine shop to do it for you. Instead of taking .5 to 3.0 hours per side the machine shop can do each one in about 5minutes. If I had to do it over again I would've also tore down the stub axle & replaced/repacked its bearing. I didnt have time as this car was my daily driver. When you use a torch to remove the pins you can bake the grease in the stub axle area & after driving awhile you'll begin to hear the bearing squealing at you. Mine came out okay: however, for you it may be a good time to take issue w/the stub axle-I mean you have it all apart-why not do it now since this isnt your daily driver. Kevin, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 18, 2001 Author Share Posted February 18, 2001 Uh boy - I didn't hacksaw out the bushing's outer shell - and it's powdercoated now. Dummy. I've got to either cut down the bushings or pop those puppies out which will now be doubly tough. (sigh) As for the stubs - only thing holding me back on that is getting the peened over bolt undone. I'll be seeing Mikekelly tomorrow it seems so I'll ask him to look at them. Repacking would be a good idea and one of the dust covers needs some work too. If I tear them down they'll get powdercoated too Fun and games. Thanks for the info - wish I'd asked before the coatings were applied. Dummy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted February 18, 2001 Share Posted February 18, 2001 quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Fun and games. Thanks for the info - wish I'd asked before the coatings were applied. Dummy. Blkmgk, Remember, you're not a dummy. It just takes some of us a little longer to graduate from John Wayne's School of Hard Knocks. Its all a learning experience Grasshopper; when you can take these bushings from my hand...you too will be ready to run your own shop. Ahsooo,grasshopper. Kevin, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted February 18, 2001 Share Posted February 18, 2001 what i do to remove the shells is heat the piss out of them till they glow red and then air chisel the shell out of the housing. if your good with a torch you can cut thru the shell and then chisel out the 2 halves. degree of difficulty depends on how rusty the car was.. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 19, 2001 Author Share Posted February 19, 2001 Got them out - I"m posting in another thread. i really would like to find some more lube - Jeg's sells some but it's not cheap. A nice big tube of it would be good and not these little thimble containers they stuck us with! Graphite would be good too but I guarantee you they would still squeek. I considered doing grease fittings but I'll wait to see how badly they make noise first. I'll post an update in the thread where I've been keeping everyone up on this - decent progress today! Oh, and I had to put everything together and pull it apart at LEAST 5 times! Still learning? Oh yes - big time! It'll go back together first try next time but with the LSD brace, cut back crossmember, and me taking care with the powdercoat it was slow going. I'm beat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scca Posted February 19, 2001 Share Posted February 19, 2001 i use nev-r-seize.. (sp) it comes in different brands but its a aluminum looking slop with a brush in a can. i use this on all the bushings and spindle pin-- coat it in and out and everywhere and 2 years from now it will come apart so EASY... i also use this on spark plug threads, brake pad clips and anywhere to lessen friction and prevent galling of threads.. good to use a small bit on the wheel studs too... can you tell i like this stuff its called preventative maintenance.. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 20, 2001 Author Share Posted February 20, 2001 Anti-sieze? Oh yes, I have a TUB of it It's on ALL of the suspension bolts but not on the bushings - I used the supplied grease for that. When I put the struts back in they will be FULL of that stuff, not to worry! Mike and I got the perches done - now I just need brakes! (lol) I spotted his new front brakes - I'm in luv! I expect I'll be setting up myself with a set of those pretty soon - need to sell the current setup(s) first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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