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Controling boost


zane9000

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So my friend and I were talking today about using MS-II as a boost controller and it got me to thinking that I might be able to do it with the spare outputs from the IAC (I'm already using FIdle for my fan). My plan would be to hook one of the outputs from the IAC control to a vacuum solenoid that would vent to the atmosphere. That way you could set up MS so it would open the solenoid at a certain boost pressure and close it at a slightly lower pressure (since the spare ports have the hysteresis option).

What do you guys think? Or has someone already thought of a better way? I did a quick search in the MS sub forum and didn't see anything for boost control...

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I should clarify something. Yes, I did see the thread about adding boost control with the GM boost solenoid. But it looked like they were doing something to control how the wastegate worked. I am talking about venting 1 or more electronic valves to the atmosphere so it eliminates the need for the wastegate. Also if you put a condition to monitor the TPS, you could use it as a BOV as well. Does this sound reasonable?

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So you want to remove the wastegate and just let the extra pressure vent from the intake? A wastegate is to control the speed the turbo spins, if it was gone your turbo would work way harder than it needs to produce low boost, you would also loose some power since the only route for exhaust gas would be through the turbo, plus the added heat. I would imagine it would scream alot. If you mean just vent exhaust to the atmosphere then it sounds like it would be possible, it would be just a an electric wastgate

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Wow, I just keep leaving out important details dont I? Ok, I did mean for it to vent from the intake to the atmosphere, but what I didnt mention is that I have a centrifugal supercharger, not a turbo. So there is no way to use a wastegate to control turbine speed. So pretty much my only option would be to vent the excess pressure somehow... And what I wrote above is the idea that I came up with.

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OK, so I finally found a valve that I think will work for this. The only problem is that it is a 24v valve. I know that I need MS to control a relay to turn it on, but does anyone know how to get 24v out of the battery to run through the relay? I was thinking about setting up a voltage multiplier, but I am not sure if it will be able to source enough current to drive the valve...

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest alex86a2t

How to make 24 volts.

 

You need 2 batteries, basically you just hook the positve terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other. across the remaining 2 open terminals you should have 24v. Also you don't need to remove any of the original connections because it won't affect your original 12v. But now you need to find a way to charge the extra battery you added.

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Alex, good idea. I hadnt thought of that for some reason. Unfortunatly, I realised the other day that the voltage needs to be AC for this valve.

Moby, I had thought about this, but then I would have to build some sort of oscillator to change the 12vdc to 12vac for the transformer to work.

 

What I have decided to do is run a small power inverter and step the 110vac down to 24vac. That way I wont have to build any oscillators or anything myself.

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Guest alex86a2t

Coming from an industrial troubleshooter, there is not difference in an AC coil and a DC coil. It is just that, a coil of wire that makes a magnetic field to attract an actuator. Just when you use, AC you are turning it off 120 times a second, causing reactance and lowering the efficiency. Just pay attention to the voltage and ignore the part that suggest the type of current to use.

 

Another solution to your voltage problem could be to use an Op-Amp to make your 24v. The only problem would be to find one rated for enough current to drive the coil in your valve. Run the 24v through the contacts of a relay that is activated by 12v. I would suggest using a relay so your controller would be 12v. You want to keep as little 24v in your car as possible, because that is less mistakes that can happen from complications with voltage references. Also make the 24v a very distinct color wire than the other wires. Maybe wrap a helix of vinyl tape down it.

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Thanks for the tips Alex. I really like the opamp idea. I have a transformer and power inverter already laying around the house. I am going to hook it up with those for proof of concept first and if everything works correctly I will definitely look for a suitable op-amp.

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Guest alex86a2t

I don't exactly understand your transformer idea. Are you taking an AC inverter to make your 12vdc into 120vac then from there making that into 24vdc? Because that is the only way it would work. There is no dc transformer. Anyways good luck and be careful, you be very suprised how little of an amount of current it takes to kill you. Having 120vac is very dangerous and remember that voltage kills more people than any other voltage.

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I don't exactly understand your transformer idea. Are you taking an AC inverter to make your 12vdc into 120vac then from there making that into 24vdc?

 

Exactly. I already have a 110VAC system in my car so all I have to do is tap into it, connect the transformer and Im set.

And yes, Im well aware how dangerous this sort of thing can get, but I do have a pretty good amount of experience with it.

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