goodoldjam

It's looking really good, to bad it was the cowl that turned out a little wonky. That's the one piece I figure I'm going to blow through if I'm not careful. Someone correct me on this, I thought that the clear needed to be applied fairly soon after the base.

It's actually a Honda Civic with R32 parts taped on?

I had a gas station attendant swing his head into the car and he seen the speedo. That's when I got the dumbest question, "Does it go that fast?". Most of the time it's either someone who doesn't know what it is or It's a older guy who wants to talk about the old days. Unless it's someone who owns a Z, then we talk about our next big project or what needs fixed.

Personally I would get a 4WD but you can get a 2WD for half the price.

I'm a little tempted to pick up a Comanche, after all this jeep talk. Something like this would be a pretty good rig. The 2WDs are much cheaper, find something like this maybe even talk him down some. It looks like quite a deal for what your getting. http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/1999647368.html

That's probably wise, I had it fixed for 3 months maybe. Yeah there is a Lawsuit, who knows when that will get settled. They still seem to be making boards with the same issue.

This explains what happens. This guy says he'll do it for $125 Yeah they'll pay quite a bit, if anything it could be parted out. Get it fixed and try to get $600 and put it towards the new truck.

I guess it depends if your towing on flat land or up mountains. Smaller truck probably would do the job just fine. I was thinking even a older Nissan hard body would do the trick. If you need to go up and down some mountain roads then you should probably go a little bigger. How safe you are is going to have alot to do with how you drive. Your biggest concern should be rear ending someone. I would probably avoid the 3vze that's in the older Toyotas, they seem to have headgasket issues similar to the 7m. Yeah the DV series was not good, the solder cracks on the BGA video chips. You can fix it if your brave just start reading up on DIY BGA reflowing. I used a heatgun and shielded the rest of the motherboard with tin foil and took the video chip up to about 500 degrees and that fixed it for awhile, I couldn't fix it a second time though.

Well thankfully it's a light color. I'm only trying to get a 10 footer, most of the touch up I could of avoided if I would had more patience and time. I was kind of in a tight spot, the rain is coming and it was time to get it painted or wrap it up.

That was deceiving, the runs were so short that I thought it was more. I was expecting more RPMs and a later peak. Yeah, how much boost was that?

Second that. 550/500

Marine clean is probably safe enough to dump on the ground (oddly it's water based) really there is no other way to dispose of it. Metal prep you can reuse so your going to want to catch that, probably not a good idea to dump that. The extra sealer you dump it back into the can and let it harden.

It works good, Marine clean works real well when you boil a big pot of water. I used it with a pressure washer and basically tryed to blow off the big scale. Then did about 4 pots of boiled water and that's when the rust started breaking loose. After you get it clean enough then you use the prep.

Well my backyard hillbilly job is getting close to done. I'm fairly happy with it considering I wanted to get a shell and startover. More work to be done, some runs and a bit of touch up. If anyone asks me why I painted in the yard I'll tell them I wanted to do it like they did in the old days. Just like TonyD Said "all done easily in the driveway, like they have been done for over 100 years!" This was painted with 1 part rustoleum to 3 parts acetone. It seems to lay down alot better then the 50/50 mix with less runs. The airless really couldn't spray much thicker without spitting the paint. Here's a car my brothers buddy had painted at Maaco. He took some crap for this one, that wrinkled quarter is freshly painted. I think the jams were purple and alot of the trim is also freshly painted. He even slipped the painter some extra money, thinking he may do a better job

Are the carbs a newer rebuild? What it is alot of the time it's a vacuum leak and in my case and alot of others it's a leak at the throttle shafts. Basically you have to tune it very rich if that's the case or it pops. If you can get it running take some starting fluid and spray it around the shafts and see if you have a leak. Could be that they're more worn then you think, I've seen the same thing. SU's seem to run good on one engine and then you figure out you can't get them tuned. Only other major problem I've had was the distributor, Vacuum advance leaking or the plastic bearing guide breaking. I have only found one distributor from a junkyard with a working vacuum advance. I ended up locking the vacuum advance on my old engine.

$450 sounds like quite a bit, I think out of the can would last long enough. Probably wouldn't look as good as having him do it but for $450 you could afford to redo it many times. I figure a Flatbed tow would cost about $60, so your paying at least $380 for a small portion of the car. There are no guarantees that when you drop in the engine that you wont scratch it or while your working on it, so it will be nice if he would do touch up work for a decent price. What kind of paint is he using? If it was epoxy then it maybe it's a good deal, I've priced the sealer and it wasn't cheap. Epoxy paint is some strong stuff.

I'll be making the 600mile drive down there soon. Not sure If I'm going to do it in the Z, it would be quite a reliability test though. Nice looking place though and good weather. The drive is fun, I love seeing a Trooper fly past when when your doing 90mph. He's after the guy who just past you at 110.

You guys are making me think I'm hooked up backwards. I would have to run it like jc, I would have to buy some more bends. If the issue is the cold side soaking heat, I guess I could wrap it.

Maybe you could run some straight 50w, It should slow it down a little. Maybe combine that with some of that engine honey. Sounds like your just after a temporary fix, that's what I would do. Only problem is on cold days it can be hard stuff to turn over.

The mixture will be more about the climate then corrosion. Pay attention to the minimum temperature, the most important thing is freeze protection. If it corrodes then it's because you didn't change it. I like 50/50 because it's overkill and if I dump a little coolant I don't worry about thinning it a bit. The bottle will point you to the correct mixture. If 50/50 was to effect my cooling that much, it probably isn't adequate anyway.

A upgrade wouldn't be that beneficial to me ATM. If I can't use more stopping power then why do it. One of these days I'll hunt down the parts, right now I'm thinking being able to use what I have to it's fullest is probably what I should be focusing on. If my brakes weren't in decent shape I would consider a upgrade as long as I was there, it really isn't that much.

A 90 Festiva for most everything. Then a 72 Chevy for the big stuff. No point in driving the truck for a junkyard run 95% of the time. 40mpg vs maybe 10mpg. The Toyota is a dog, just not practical for a parts getter.

They said the car was only worth $500. What's up with that, now you have a branded title.