jacob300zx Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 Hey I picked up a 74 260 the other day. Fairly good condition for 800 bucks. I also just got a supposedly running 350 without a carb for 100. I just went down to O'Rielys and got a cherry picker. Anybody have any advice for me? I have the jtr manual. I want to do a manual tranny. Any ideas on where to pick up a good used one? What is a good intake and carb for a mild 300 horse motor(just bolt ons)? I heard that demon carbs are good and around $300? What headers should I get? Will ceramic coated headers desapate heat better? Is it worth the extra money? What would you guys get? The motor is out of a 83-84?, chevy 4 wheel drive. I was just going to do bolt ons and then when it craps out do a mild build. Thanks Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ron Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 Take a deep breath grasshopper and slow down.... First read the JTR book several times. Decide if you want to street rac it or drive it. Have a few beers, take a nap, and read the JTR bood again. You're setting yourself up for disaster by getting ahead of yourself. Lay it all out on paper, and take a systematic aproach. Then have another beer. Good luch bud, I have the sense that you're going to have fun. Build it once, build it right. Then celebrate with a cold beer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 2, 2006 Author Share Posted August 2, 2006 Thanks for the advice on beer. I like beer. I also have read the jtr manual like five times. Anbody have any real experience on a cheap budget build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ron Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 Beer is our friend. I would look for a good, running eng. trans combination that can be pulled as a unit and dropped in. If you go with any of the new stuff you're going to need high pressure fuel pumps, and newer stuff you'll need a degree in doodads and sensors. Pull up your carpets and make sure you don't have any rust issues. crawl under with a phillips screwdriver and check your frame rails. If you can poke a bunch of holes in them, you have problems that have to be addressed befor you go any further. Order your parts to convert it, and take your time. Headers are cool but will add a lot of heat to the front end. Insulate against it or control the air flot and ventilate it out. Big after market carbs are cool, but so is a good old Quadrajet. I used one on a hot rod, it had primaries about an inch and secondaries the size of barn doors. Great mileage until you mashed it, then it took off and sucked in small birds and butterlies. You can go fast and be very reliable as long as you don't try to get too fancy. Make it simple and strong and you will never be sorry. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted August 2, 2006 Share Posted August 2, 2006 Start with this link and then start searching the forums, It's all here... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=67657 LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 "Thanks for the advice on beer. I like beer. I also have read the jtr manual like five times. Anbody have any real experience on a cheap budget build?" Buy domestic beer, you will save a bundle!! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silicone boy Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 It really sounds like you are off to a good start to the cheap build. Assuming the motor is in fairly good condition, now would be a good time to change out the cam, put cheap block hugger headers on it, take off the heads and port them if you are up to it or can find someone to do it for you. Or if you are interested in performance, I've got a spare set of AFR 195's for sale (shameless plug on my part) : ) . As for intake, there are many choices on the market, and if you want to keep it on the cheap, check EBay for a dual plane manifold. That should get you an inexpensive, cheap build (of course, how would I know anything about building cheaply--I'm an example of someone who got out of control). As far as a tranny, get a T5 from a junkyard. There are millions of them and they should do well with a mildly warmed over V8. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flames_187 Posted August 3, 2006 Share Posted August 3, 2006 good buy!...i just got a 260z in good condition too...welcome to the club Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 4, 2006 Author Share Posted August 4, 2006 So I was calling around looking for a t56 or t5 today and the first guy I called said he was out of both but that I should call this company called Gear Tech. So I call them up and the lady that answered said they were closing there doors and today was there last day they would be open. I asked if she had a t5 or t56 and she said they hauled off almost everything to the junkyard but that she would check. She got back on the phone and said they had 1 t5 left for 300$ but that I had to pick it up today. I went down there and got a rebuild nwc t5 out of a early eighties camaro for 300 bucks. Score!! I guess now I am looking for a camaro bellhousing and clutch fork and slave cylinder? I saw a post saying that a ford f150 master cylinder would pretty much bolt right on. So the parts list just keeps getting shorter and shorter........ Car 350 sbc t5 Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silicone boy Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 You just keep on scoring right and left! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 4, 2006 Share Posted August 4, 2006 $300 for a rebuilt T5 is just an amazing deal. Heck, even it was not a WC T5, it is still an amazing price. Nice score! Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 Man that was tuff but fun. Me and my buddy Josh started at 5 and finished by 10. Everything went smooth even without a shop manual and it was our first go at something like this. The only problem we had was the driveshaft binding up when the tranny was on the way out. We wedged the driveshaft up with a block and yanked on the hoist real hard ....thud... problem solved. For anyone trying to do their first motor/tranny pull go ahead and buy some kitty litter, we made a mess. The smog crap we just cut off or ripped out. We took off the hood, unhooked the throttle linkage, took the radiator out, disconnected some hoses, unbolted the exhaust, and unbolted the motor. Then on to the tranny. We put a jack under the crossmember and unbolted it, disconnected the speedo cable, and the slave cylinder?. On the inside we just tore the shifter boot out with a knife, and took off the ring on the stick shift swivel( you'll see it). Two guys, lots of beer, and five hours.....pulling your first motor...priceless. Well I guess I will keep updating this one post so that the newer newbs can read it and use it as a guide. THIS IS HOW YOU DO YOUR FIRST SWAP AND THIS IS WHAT I MESSED UP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 http://community.webshots.com/myphotos?action=viewAllPhotos&albumID=552880350&ran=27154 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 Ok, so after cleaning my garage, when I get off of work tom. I am going to start on the engine bay. I'm going to pull all of the crap out of the bay that doesn't belong. Then I am going to degrease and scuff. After that I plan on using some of that spray on Rhino Lining from the auto parts store. I think it will look good and hide any future spills or scratches. What do you guys think? Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted August 6, 2006 Share Posted August 6, 2006 As for the motor, an Edelbrock performer dual plane intake and a holley 650 carb, or an Edelbrock spreadbore carb should do you fine. Check around and see if you can score good used stuff, alot of SBC is setting in garages. If your unsure about the mileage on that $100 350 I would replace the timing chain, or at least check it. Good advice on the beer and slowing down, no need to do things twice because of rushing. You don't need a "Killer" engine to haul around that Z, that can come later. Just my opinion here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 6, 2006 Author Share Posted August 6, 2006 Thanks for the carb advice. Thats the conclusion that I came up with too. Again I will state that I like beer(check previous post) and I'm sure the pace will slow as I get into the build up. Until then ripping stuff out that I don't need is pretty easy and fast. Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 7, 2006 Share Posted August 7, 2006 ...Then I am going to degrease and scuff. After that I plan on using some of that spray on Rhino Lining from the auto parts store. I think it will look good and hide any future spills or scratches. Jake, you're the second or third guy to try that. I don't remember reading too much negative on using the bedliner in the engine bay. It looks OK and I'm sure it's more abrasion resistant than paint is!!! Prep will be key. If you do a decent job, it should come out looking pretty good. I'm going to use trunk paint in my engine bay. I like the look of that stuff. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Yeah, I think it will look good. I picked up three cans today along with some degreaser. I cleaned the garage and degreased the engine bay. After that I was pooped so I thru the towel in for the nite. Me and my buddy are going to start on the scuffing and painting next and I will post up some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob300zx Posted August 7, 2006 Author Share Posted August 7, 2006 Ok, so we did the core support and fronts of the inner fenders. We sanded with 80 grit, then cleaned, then painted. Well now im pissed because it looks sooo good and the rest of it looks like sh&t. So now I think I am going to redo the front suspension pieces with the same paint and some energy suspension bushings. Check out the progress at http://community.webshots.com/user/jacob300zx . Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted August 8, 2006 Share Posted August 8, 2006 The Arkansas Z Car Club site has been dead lately. Just saw your post. You need to call me on my cell phone I listed in that site. I can save you a lot of headaches and money that I wasted trying to get where I am now. If you go cheap, you will pay twice as much in the long run. JTR can be followed to a point but they are oriented to mild street conversions not racers. i.e. an Arizona Z car $800 Welwood brake conversion is not much more than a Motorsports Toyota 4 piston after you buy new rotors and there is a world of difference in braking on a road course. JTR's Sanderson headers fit perfectly and look great but be sure and get the 1 5/8". Nothing beats a solid differential mount, especially not a cabled up stocker. Also, I have a 600 CFM Edelbrock Performer that I replace with an 800 in almost new condition as well as a bunch of other assorted pull offs including slotted mags, stock rotors, master cylinders etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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