Drax240z Posted April 20, 2001 Share Posted April 20, 2001 Just got my set from Evan, and slapped them on the car. Woohoo! Very nice pieces, well designed and DAMN the car looks a lot better with the wheels properly offset. I can't wait to see how much the wider stance helps. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted April 20, 2001 Share Posted April 20, 2001 Can we get a picture pretty pleeeease? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted April 20, 2001 Author Share Posted April 20, 2001 Hmm, if they weren't on the car it would be a lot easier to take a picture. Maybe if Evan sees this he can post the link to the picture he had before. I now realize that the 205/50/15's I have on the car are kinda small!! Hehe. Oh well, better gearing for me. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 20, 2001 Share Posted April 20, 2001 What size ya putting on there Drax? Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted April 20, 2001 Author Share Posted April 20, 2001 Wheels are one of the least important things to me right now. First comes coilovers, paint, sway bars, brakes. Maybe then I'll look for some 17x8 wheels. Some Volk TE37's would be nice. ------------------ "Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool." Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6. Drax240's Turbo Site Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 25, 2001 Share Posted April 25, 2001 does anyone know another way to get intouch with some of the spacers? I emailed them, and they never got back to me. I want to get some for about a 3/4 inch space, so I can run some nice rims, and nice phat tires on my zx. Need to since i'm pushing some HP!! thanks a million sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulR Posted April 25, 2001 Share Posted April 25, 2001 I was doing a search for spacers (adapters) awhile back and found this site: Performance Wheel They are $50 each for the 1 inch thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 25, 2001 Share Posted April 25, 2001 If I might make a suggestion.. Make absolute certain the spacer axial run-out is within or preferrably less than the Nissan/Datsun spec for the hub run-out. Also make sure your surfaces of the hub and inner wheel are absolutely spotless. Otherwise, you'll get a vibration problem. I recently fixed a vibration problem on another car by removing the front wheel and cleaning these surfaces. The garage that replaced the tire on that wheel didn't take the care to do this. Radial run-out shouldn't be a problem with machined spacers, but if it is, it can also unbalance the system. Also, make sure your studs are long enough to maintain full thread engagement on the lug nuts when properly torqued. You may find yourself re-torquing the lugs and/or torquing them higher than spec to keep the joint tight over time. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted April 25, 2001 Share Posted April 25, 2001 Great points lil2qwk on keeping those surfaces clean, they can attract material easily when removed as brake dust and dirt dislodges in the wheelwell area during disassembly or aless than spotless shop floor they're set on. I just wanted to caution against overtightening as this can easily cause stud failure. Specs are their for a good reason. A racer friend was wondering why he kept breaking wheel studs during races.....he always overtorqued them thinking tighter was better, since we corrected him on this he hasn't broken a stud As well before I invested in a set of bolt on spacers I'd look at my future plans and possible mods as long studs and slip on spacers are far more accomodating of future rims changes with only a thin spacer needed on backside (b/t original slip on and hub) to move this spacing outware/or mill your original spacer. May be a fine time to go 5 lug as well as this is where a LOT of cheaper slick OEM and aftermarket wheels abound and if one desires you can work up to 2 or more sets quite cheaply for various treads etc....most in 16" and larger where the tire choices are much improved. And I know I've mentioned this before but I see a greater safety factor with slipons as it's very easy for me to retorque my wheels and no that COMPLETE connection is dead nuts tight. With bolt ons you have no way of knowing the inner nuts aren't below torque without removing your wheel to retorque. Just my .02c....as well Porsche who uses slipons a great deal uses the thickest studs and widest bolt pattern as part of their design just FWIW (don't recall by memory/but it was true a year ago when I checked this out). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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