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PaulR's Achievements


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  1. I thought I had an oil leak at the back of my intake manifold that turned out to be a leak at the rear of one of the valve covers. Might want to check that, if you haven't already. Paul
  2. OK, I'll help you out. I had these turbo related links saved for reference anyway http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141130 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=134781 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110873 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132957 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143571 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143746 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106825 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90891 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141520 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135620 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128596 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118770
  3. Actually, it was jhm who posted the link... but it is my TT install. Thanks. Paul
  4. Still working on some of the issues... seems that with the nicer weather, I've been catching up on more of the work around the house that piled up over the winter. Close, that would be Ken, my daughter's SO and dad to my beautiful 7 month old grand-son. In fact he was here, in western WA last weekend and I gave him a ride in the Z. I think he was impressed!
  5. I think the seal was bad all along and the added blow-by is now pushing oil out the seal. It may be hard to inspect because it's so tight to the firewall (set back even further than JTR by 3/4 inch). Maybe if I pull the distributor I can get a better look. At worst, I'll pull the intake and re-seal. I didn't expect much blow-by since I did a leak-down check before I added the turbos and the worst cylinder was 97% The thing I don't understand is why it got worse when I disconnected the PCV. I unhooked the line that goes to the base of the Throttle Body and plugged it and just left the PCV in the valve cover open and I got lots of oil running down the bell housing. I hooked it back up and its leaking just a little. Thanks for the reply... I'm now hooked on boost
  6. Yes, eventually. Our Z Club http://www.zccw.org usually has a dyno day once a year. So, if I get things figured out by then (and don't break something else first) I'll bring it there.
  7. Sorry for the lack of updates... I was out of town for 16 days, then I was helping my son work on his Datsun 510. Anyway enough of the excuses I got it on the road for the 1st time last week. A few nagging annoying problems, but nothing major so far. I have an oil leak that appears to be coming out of the back of the intake manifold. I’m guessing the seal between the manifold and the lifter valley (I did use a generous bead of RTV, not the stock gasket). Not sure if its boost related or not, but it wasn’t leaking before the turbos went on. I tried disconnecting the PCV, thinking I was boosting into the crankcase thru it, but it only got worse! I also have an intermittent electric problem that I need to track down that kills the engine. I might be the supply for the MSD module, but it doesn’t happen long enough to trouble shoot. Just a PITA when it decides to quit... especially in traffic OK, so impressions? I have to say WOW! The boost comes on pretty quick and you can definitely feel it. The 1st day I took it out, the roads were wet (this is near Seattle!) and no matter what speed I was going, the rear end would break loose when boost started kicking in… not a very friendly car to drive in the rain. We just had a couple of dry days, so I got to “feel†the acceleration… pretty cool! Remember, I’ve got the wastegates set to only 5psi, so I not adding a ton of power, but its definitely working for me. I want to add some insulation to the hood above the turbos (gets pretty hot to the touch, but no paint discoloration) and fix some of the other minor issues, but so far I’m happy with the results.
  8. The 3D model is to scale. I found a CAD model on the web and checked it against dimensions that were in a GM book I have. Should be the same as the ones in the sticky at the top of this forum. You're welcome to a copy (ProE or a nuetral format like IGES or STEP). PM me and I'll send it to you. If a moderator wants to add it to the sticky, let me know. I haven't run it hard enough to get real hot. but I do have stainless heat shields over the tubines. ( made from a sauce pan I bought at Value Village for 69 cents ). So far, I can put my hand onthe hood and it is comfortably warm. I'll probably glue some insulation on the hood above the turbos before I get on it.
  9. COOOL! Thanks Marty! See you at a meeting soon. Hopefully with the new set-up.
  10. Don't know I haven't taken it out of the garage yet. I just got the tune set tonite so it will idle good now. When I rev it up, it bucks a little before smoothing out, but the A/F meter shows about 11.5:1, so I know I have a little tuning to do before I get it on the road. Turbos spinning up sounds cool!!! I tried video w/ my digital camera, but the audio is horrible. Unfortunately I've got another commitment this coming weekend, so probably a couple more weeks. Hey, like I said at the beginning this has been a project I started 4 years ago... what's a couple more weeks
  11. I set the wastegates to start opening at 6psi (added the external spring), down from the stock setting of about 10 psi. got them re-mounted and just started tuning. I've got the fuel map set so that it's running pretty rich right now. Hope I can find the time to do some serious tuning soon.
  12. Yeah, Maybe i should fab a shield to protect it and the lines. The tank itself is .080 thick steel, so pobably not likely to get puntured (i.e. thicker than the sheetmetal inner fenders that seem to hold up OK), but the fuel lines might be easier to cut. Maybe jacketed lines in the exposed area would help. Thanks for pointing it out. BTW, the other black rectangular object is the tranny oil cooler. I did place a expanded metal screen in front of it, since its directly behind the tire. (It's not installed in the picture). The surge tank is more off to the side, but a large object could still get kicked up into it.
  13. Check out these threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143571 Mine http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143746 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106825 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90891 These are the TT S30's I know of. There are also some single turbo V8s. Search the V8 forums
  14. McMaster PN 5177K46 $25.10 for 25 ft coil Easy-Bend Aluminum Tubing Also known as Alloy 3003-O, this tubing is softer and more bendable than our other aluminum tubing. It has seamless construction. Use with water, air, alcohol, and oil. Meets ASTM B483-03, B483-75, and B483-95. Not rated for sterilization. (also available in a bunch of other sizes) My frame rails are home-brew. They definitely help. I used to get enough body twist that the hood would pop open under hard acceleration... not anymore.
  15. I used a 3/8 aluminum tubing that I gought from McMaster Carr. I ran it along the sub-frame that I had added to strengthen the chassis (it's 3" steel channel). I ran it along the outside, since I was going to the front wheel-well where I mounted the surge tank. I used the stock supply line (which is about 5/16) for the return. You can see the Holley pump near the gas tank.
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