Guest vettefever88 Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 Hello everyone. I am new to this forum. I am a member of digital corvettes, and I stumbled across this forum. So far, it seems this is a very good place for infromation. I saw Grumpy from DC here, he's helped me out several time. But to the question now... Ive been working with grumpy to make my l98 into a 383 and adding the miniram. I calculated some prices and its already up to 8000+ dollars to convert. I was aiming at least 450hp and 500 lb/trq. I would really like to make a driver RWHP 450 or 500 RWTQ. So I started thinking about it, I can keep the eagle crank, connecting rods, and my pistons. Also, still have my AFR Heads 195cc 2.02/1.60 valves 74cc combustion chambers. I would be saving a large sum by not going with the 3,750 TPIS conversion Mini-Ram. So now the question is, what do I have to change to make my car run on a carb. I know my intake manifold and a carb, but how can I keep my stock oil pressure and all of my dash still working. How many sensors would I effect with the change of fuel delivery. Would it only be throttle position and oxygen? Can someone help me out here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 http://www.thirdgen.org/carbswap this should help btw its not all that difficult to do and you won,t have near the problems with gauges reading that you think, and your sensor problems with the larger cam will be far easier to deal with, but your mileage will suffer. btw think salvage yard, most of the small parts can be found there cheaply, but personally Id sellect a new carb compatible fuel pump and a super vic intake and a 750 cfm vacume secondary holley or demon carb, the super vic intake will also produce better power over a wider rpm range than the miniram, BUT BE AWARE THAT HOOD CLEARANCE MAY BE A PROBLEM, MEASURE CAREFULLY, YOULL SURELY NEED A DROP BASE AIR CLEANER, AT A MINIMUM, THERES A TOTAL OF 9.5" BETWEEN THE BLOCK RAILS AND LOWER HOOD SURFACE http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=JET%2D700225&N=700+318244+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D0%2D9015%2D1&N=700+115&autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=EDL%2D2925&N=700+304736+4294903502+115&autoview=sku Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 there is a guy out there that converts LT1 heads and intake to work on a gen 1 block and using a distributor. hell, you might as well just go buy an LT1, use the block, put all the stroker stuff in it, get LT4 heads and LT4 intake. i know you can use the same L98 harness/computer for stuff such as injectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vettefever88 Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 How much power do you think that could achieve with the perfect cam? The mileage cant be any worse than 14 mpg in the city. lol:shifty: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 29, 2006 Share Posted August 29, 2006 get a aug 1998 copy of (VETTE) magazine theres an article with instructions on how a guy installed a fuel injected big block in a C-4 vette without cutting the hood, if your going to spend close to $10,000 or more to make a C4 vette fast you may as well do it so youve got something spectacular when your done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vettefever88 Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 What kind of fuel pump do you suggest? Will that marine carb actually work fine with my car? Should I go with the carb that you suggested or a double pumper, street carb, or what? My build is going to be right around prob 7 grand even with the trq converter, and rearend. So I think I undercut cost pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vettefever88 Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 I might as well add this too. What type of cam and lifters would you go with? I want to milk this engine for every possible HP and LB of torque.Here are the rocker arms I found that look good to use. Jegs part number 270-WG3063 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted August 30, 2006 Share Posted August 30, 2006 you want a know good combo 385 Cu.In. 10.5:1 cpr GM 4 Bolt "010" Block 4.04 Forged SRP pistons -16cc Eagle Cast 3.75" Crank Crower 6.0" 4340 I beam rods Crower Billet Steel ROLLER Cam 254/257 @ .050 .712 lift w/ 1.6 rockers 108* LSA installed at 104* Jesel Shaft Rockers 1.6:1 PSI Springs 230# closed, 620# open Super Victor Intake ported to match heads, Fel-Pro 1209 Wilson Manifolds 1.5" carb spacer Holley HP950 Carb, 79-81 jets, .055 air bleeds all the way around MSD Pro-Billet Distributor Custom Stepped headers 1.75 - 1 7/8 - 2" Iron Eagle Platinum 230cc Heads CNC'd by M2 Racing 320cfm @ .700 333 cfm @ .800 66cc chambers 42* total timing 110 octane on dyno will run 91 on street It's a custom billet steel ROLLER cam. Youll need to order one 282/286 adv 254/257 @ .050 .445 lift @ lobe .712 lift w/ 1.6:1 rockers 108* LSA 104* ICL Solid Roller 450tq 580hp http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldyno.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers1.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y197/stevemc1979/finaldynonumbers2.jpg http://www.crower.com/misc/contact.shtml youll need a 4000rpm stall converter or a manual trans and a 4.11-4.33 rear gear choice two (BUT BUILD IT AS A 383 NOT A 355) http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0506_gm_bow_tie_vortec_small_block_engine/ choice three, and more choices http://airflowresearch.com/articles.php#SBC http://airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.php http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article120/A-P1.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vettefever88 Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 I read through all of your articles that you sent, and Ive found a good combo. 383 cid Small Block Chevy Package AFR 195cc Street Heads 9.5 to 1 Compression 1 3/4†Headers AFR FloPower RPM #5028 and 0-4779 750 cfm Holley Carb Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Cam #12-433-8 MSD Distributor 36° Timing 93° Octane Pump Gas Now heres a few questions surrounding this package. The compression ratio, is the 9.5 or 10.5 better in this combo? With the 76cc chamber how do you achieve 10.5 compression if so? All of the 10.5 pistons Ive looked into drop rates cause of the chambers on the head that ive chosen (9.6?). What about the intake mentioned in this combo. Is the Victor jr better than the AFR Flopower RPM intake? Ive used and been around the regular RPM intake and it seems under powered for my application.The super victor jr that you advised, I think is gonna be too much on clearance, and just too big. I think Ill be effiecent with a 2500-6500 RPM range. The 3000 Stall and gears should be just right even in that range. But, chime in and tell me what you think about all of this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vettefever88 Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Oh yea and by the way, heres the number from the dyno. These are slightly rough, they are rounded except the bold. TQ HP 2500 460 230 3000 470 280 3500 480 310 4000 505 390 4500 517 425 5000 485 450 5500 460 503 6000 415 490 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=12-433-8 Id personally suggest a minimum of 10:1 cpr with that cam youve got to measure hood clearances , to find what will fit/clear, the intake choice, will be related more to your rear gear ratio , stall speed,and average RPM BAND you actually use, the RPM air gap is a good intake and if you currently have one, Id at least test it before swapping, ANY single plane intake will cause a loss of low rpm tq, and a slight increase in high rpm power. that may or may not be a good Idea, I like the single plane intakes WITH NITROUS KITS, as they help equalize the port flow rates and with a 383 running a 3.73 rear gear,3000 stall ,10;1 cpr,and that cam you can,t always use all the low rpm tq on street tires, that a dual plane intake provides, but its nice to have at part throttle. if you won,t run nitrous, the RPM makes for a good compromise as to getting your cpr up with 76cc heads, steel or copper shim haed gaskets in the .015-.021 range and a small dome piston helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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