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wheel, tire, lowering


Guest triple_threat311

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Guest triple_threat311

I am thinking about getting a set of inexpensive rims. Eagle Alloys, I think mike that you have a set of these. The mustang ones right? Well how are these holding up. The ones that I am thinking about getting is style 169. they have the correct bolt pattern for the 260z 4x4.5 in the 16x7.5 size. best of all these are only 97$ each. I think that I am going to get bridgestone Potenza's 245/45ZR16 on the back and 225/50zr16 on the front. I am going to have to convert to coilovers right? I want to lower my car about 1.5" Mike, will i be able to do that with your kit? and what strut cartridges do you recomend to get with your kit to lower my car about that much?

 

any help or comments will be greatly appreciated.

 

anthony

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Heh, which Mike - there are several here. You'll want to check the backspacing on that wheel too. You can play with spacers but the stock studs aren't very long. This was a nightmare for me but with some work it came out alright. The measurements I made for the back of my car should be applicable to you I believe and are in another thread. You might want to try test fitting some Mustang 4lug wheels from a friend if that will fit and is a backspacing close to what these are...

 

Good luck, I know your pain.

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16X7.5 wheels - backspace of 5 7/8ths right?

 

7.5 minus 5.875 = 1.625 from center towards the outer side, hence a plus size that brings the wheel in towards the strut. From memory converting this to centimeters (be gentle - 25.4 centimeters per inch?) that's 41.275 so about a +40.

 

DiscountTire's page still crashes my browser but the Konig 5.0 wheels fit my car well. I BELIEVE that +20 is what fit in the back of my car best - remember these are 17's though. I'm going to use a 5/16ths spacer and mine are 8inch wide wheels. Your wheels are a 1/4inch shallower per side. I figure my backspacing should've been about 4.8inches or so. Even subtracting a 1/4inch your's are coming out as being about an inch deeper towards the strut but DO double check me. I'm not sure how wheel diameter plays into this but I don't have a good feeling here. If you run a spacer that will bring it out but also bring the edge of the wheel more towards the wheel lip. Do you have longer studs? At the very least I think you'll need coil-overs if they fit at all. These seem to be like they may be too deep in towards the strut, hopefully someone else can check my math or speak from experience here. Hope I've not just confused the situation more icon_sad.gif

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Guest triple_threat311

Basing the figures on your equations, that changes the answer to 4.1275 or +4. I have a vague understanding about what you are talking about based on the explanation in the JTR manual, all those terms and the answer to your equation in a little bit simplified form would help me out a lot. With the conversion factor changed, do you think that I will be able to fit these wheels?

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DOH!! I KNEW I should've looked it up to be sure! I'm sorry about that, I was pretty tired and math makes my head hurt.

 

I believe what most folks try for is a centered wheel on the Z. In my case spacing it inwards 20mm was fine with an 8inch wheel. Ah, there's the screwup - it's 25.4MM per inch NOT CM. My figures were right but not in CM - in MM!!

 

Okay, so your wheel is +42mm? I was close icon_smile.gif That puts it 1.6 inches DEEPER towards the strut than centered I believe. +20mm was okay on an 8inch wide wheel, you're losing a 1/4inch per side which is 6.35mm. That's 15.65mm closer than my wheel or .62inches? I can tell you that there's NO way I could space in a half inch+ with my coilovers in back! You're looking at longer studs (ARP), a half inch spacer, and possibly problems with the outside edge hitting the wheelwell. Mine is close but okay but you save 1/4inch right off the bat so you migth squeeze that last 1/4inch in okay - I'm just not sure. Suggest you price studs and spacers before you decide, I'd expect that to add another $50+ per side or so icon_sad.gif Spacers from the local Trak Auto can be had in 5/16ths so you could stack 2 of them (shiver) and only spend $16 per wheel but that's a little scary. ARP lugs are like $11 a set I think - I would be sure to run strong lugs if you must extend and run long spacers! New nutz too but you may need these anyway...

 

I've not looked up those wheels myself so I don't know what they look like. Double check my math (ahem) to be sure I'm not WAY off please. At $150+ a wheel you might be able to do better with another wheel unless that style really turns your crank. My Konigs were 5lug and 17inches, I think I paid a little over $200 each for them (fuzzy and I CAN'T check Discount's site). In a 16inch size you mightshould get them cheaper - I'd check them out as it really looks sweet on a Z if they will fit your car and budget. My track is wider up front than yours from my brakes so I cannot help as much there but I believe the front is a MUCH smaller problem to deal with.

 

Lastly, someone else PLEASE jump in and double check my math etc. here!!! I knew squat about this a month ago and had to come up to speed REAL fast in order to make sure I got the right wheels for MY car. I DID but I don't pretend that it wasn't halfway blind luck. I know another member got all +20mm on his car and it fit perfectly. Knowing this I had to grit my teeth when I got something like +40 for the front of my car - but MY track is WIDER than stock so my front numbers won't match anyone except those who are 5lug. Other input owuld be helpful here please.... icon_eek.gif

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~40mm offset is very popular since that's what the front driver's use.

 

For the Z, 20mm offset is golden on an 8 inch wide wheel (with coilovers!).

 

I'd guess that 20mm offset, 7.5 inch would probably clear a stock strut. But that's just a guess. Better off with 0 offset in that width. I have 20mm offset 8 inch rims and they barely clear the spring in the rear - and I have coilovers. There's space on the outside - in theory I could've gone with less offset.

 

As BLKMGK stated, you'll probably be better off looking for some rims with the correct offset - otherwise the added cost of spacers and studs will eat up your savings. And new studs will require removal of the stub axles - not a simple task. Spacers that bolt to the existing studs and provide their own, new studs, are not cheap.

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Guys, don't forget that when figuring backspacing, you're also measuring the rim lip thickness. You have to add this to the half-width of the wheel to be able to figure out the offset.

 

Check out this thread, which goes through the details, and has a diagram listing all the measurements:

http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000255

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Guest triple_threat311

that would be great if you could take pictures. but i am still real confused on where to look for wheels. i called a azc custom wheels today and they said that no matter what unless i ordered like these 600$ a piece rims, i would have to use spacers. He claims that the 260z used a FWD lug nut configuration on a rearwheel drive car. correct me if i am wrong, but i thought that the only difference between rwd and fwd was the offset? positive for fwd and negative for rwd. so if you can get a wheel with positive backspacing(fwd) to fit, then it is fine. im going to look elsewhere for rims. hey does anyone know the original tire size on a 260z?

 

anthony

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I believe they originally came with 14 inch, 70 profile - probably 185 section width.

 

I got my wheels from DiscountTireDirect.com: 17X8 with a 20mm offset. They are dual pattern (8 holes) 4.5 and 4.25. They were pretty cheap (had to be, I'm poor) - $1300 with 235/45 Dunlop SP5000s shipped to my door. Coulda been cheaper if I'dve used a lower grade tire. BUT, since the reason I finally jumped in the debt hole for new tires/rims was because I spun out going 50 on the freeway in the rain, I decided a good tire would be money well spent.

 

Oh, they're Konig Monsoons (http://240z.jeromio.com/newwheels.html).

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Pete, thanks for the reminder on the rim, I'd completely forgotten that!

 

However, Eagle is apparently advertising these as +42mm so we can toss the math I guess. +42mm puts it fairly deep in towards the strut doesn't it? I've got a +40mm 17X8 up front. I have tried it on the rear and it hit pretty badly. The 7.5 width only saves a 1/4inch on each side, yes? I think +42mm will hit. I can try my front wheel in back again and take pics if that wil help. Lemme' know.

 

Mike - what's 7/8 AIR? Space between wheel and strut? Air gap? icon_confused.gif

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