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TV cable adjustment help!


240zV8

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I'm having trouble figuring this out. I read a couple article's and searched how to adjust a tv cable on a chevy truck tbi unit setup with the 700r4, and it said to push the D shaped button in and slide the adjuster all the way in until it bottoms out. Than it said to step on the gas pedal to WOT and the cable should self adjust itself and click out to the position it should be at. Well i pushed the button in and slid the adjuster all the way in, then i stepped on the pedal and it didn't go back out at all. I also used the throttle linkage by handd to try to go past WOT to see if it would click out any, but it didn't it just stayed all the way in. So does that mean i have to just drive around and slide that adjuster out and keep testing all kinds of positions until the shifts are what i want? the last thing i want is to adjust it wrong and do any damage. Help would be appreciated, here's some pic's of the adjuster in the bottomed out position. Before i touched it, the adjuster was about an inch out and it was shifting OK, but it hung 1st and 2nd sometimes on medium accell....

 

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That is odd... my 200-4R book (similar TV setup) suggests rotating the throttle lever by hand, as you have done, to set the cable.

 

Did you notice any change at all in shift quality or the road speed of the shifts when you moved the slider all the way to the rear?

If not, the cable may be broken or disconnected in the transmission. On the 200-4R, a break or disconnect results in full TV pressure (like wide open throttle), so you get later, harder, shifts.

 

 

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That is odd... my 200-4R book (similar TV setup) suggests rotating the throttle lever by hand, as you have done, to set the cable.

 

Did you notice any change at all in shift quality or the road speed of the shifts when you moved the slider all the way to the rear?

If not, the cable may be broken or disconnected in the transmission. On the 200-4R, a break or disconnect results in full TV pressure (like wide open throttle), so you get later, harder, shifts.

 

 

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i don't think it's broken because it has about 1/4" of play before u can feel pressure on the cable... i haven't taken it out yet, but i will in the morning to test the shifts. Fluid level won't affect shift behavior like hanging 1st and 2nd gear would it? (like having to much trans oil). I'm gonna see how it shifts in the morning, and play around with the adjuster, and then i'm gonna definently get a new filter and pan gasket and change the trans oil just to get some fresh stuff in there... i'll post up how it goes tomorrow..

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the way it would shift it would be fine for the first 2 gears, then it shifts through 3rd and 4th kinda fast so i'd be in 4th by around 45mph on up... and it would hang 1st and 2nd if i get on the gas in those gears...... Manual trans is all i've had before this, and i think i'll go back to that soon enough...

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Right... If you feel a spring on the other end of the cable, it isn't broken.

 

In the 200-4R the pump can suck air under extremely hard acceleration with normal fluid level, so racers add fluid or go to deeper pans to keep from uncovering the oil pickup, which is the problem. I've no experience with the 700, but haven't heard of a shift problem caused by too much fluid.

 

Holding longer in first and second under heavy throttle is normal. The TV cable does this, raising pressures to help the trans handle the extra torque. (This was the function of the vacuum modulator on earlier trannys). Running with the TV set wrong can fry a 200 really quick... as in one hard run.

 

Shift timing is primarily a valve body function. Due to smog laws and economy considerations, it may not be right for performance use straight out of the factory. (This may be the cause of the trans wanting to go into third and fourth at low road speeds. If so, a good shift reprogramming kit should help).

 

 

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Holding longer in first and second under heavy throttle is normal. The TV cable does this, raising pressures to help the trans handle the extra torque. (This was the function of the vacuum modulator on earlier trannys). Running with the TV set wrong can fry a 200 really quick... as in one hard run.

 

well when i mean hanging, i mean the revs will go up and it won't wanna shift unless I let off the gas some...

 

If i get the tv cable setup and the shifts are normal, I don't have to worry about frying the trans right? Wouldn't it be hard awkward shifts when it's gonna fry it? Or can it shift fine but still have the wrong vacuum that will cause damage?

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well when i mean hanging, i mean the revs will go up and it won't wanna shift unless I let off the gas some...

 

If i get the tv cable setup and the shifts are normal, I don't have to worry about frying the trans right? Wouldn't it be hard awkward shifts when it's gonna fry it? Or can it shift fine but still have the wrong vacuum that will cause damage?

 

In the 200-4R, not wanting to shift until the throttle is lifted is generally caused by a governor spring having been thrown out of place during a burn out. I don't know if it indicates a similar problem in the 700 or not. :(

It might also be the result of someone playing with the valve body/ TV limit valve or spring when installing a shift kit... likely there are additional possible causes beyond my ken.

 

There is NO engine vacuum control of transmission pressures in the 700; that is why the TV cable adjustment is critical. Here is a web site on the TV system; lots of adapters for carburetion changes: http://www.tvmadeez.com/.

 

A too soft shift is more likely to damage a transmission than a shift that is a bit hard. If the clutches engage lazily there may be slippage, which creates heat and burns up friction materials. A quick firm shift limits slippage/heat buildup. Hopefully that is the shift feel you consider 'normal'.

 

 

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well the cable is definently working. I drove it with the adjuster all the way in for about 200 feet and it wouldn't even really shift, it just stayed in 1st forever and finally kicked into second so that wasn't gonna work... And so i pulled the adjuster out to where it was before i touched it (it was all dirty so i could easily tell where the mark it was at use to be). And i tried it there again, and it shifted kind of soft and would over rev 1st and second alittle. So i moved the adjuster back IN just alittle bit and it seems like the best position. The shifts hold alittle longer in each gear but aren't overrevving, because i can gas it and they don't hesitate to shift under any accelleration. when it use to overrev, i would have to let off the gas for it to want to shift easy, now it doesn't matter how i accelerate it will always kick into the next gear firm, but still smooth.. So i hope i found the right spot thats safe for the trans....

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