save a new guy to the hobby a great deal of money

[grumpyvette]

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=180950&Category_Code=

 

cam sellection software

 

http://www.virtualengine2000.com/DynoOverview.htm

 

virtual dyno software

 

 

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

 

how to asemble an engine basics on video

 

 

heres three of the less expensive CDs that are well worth getting, ESPECIALLY the last two!

they can easily save a new guy to the hobby a great deal of time and money and screw ups matching parts

the top one is a cam sellection program, I have got to say that its a good starting point and seldom makes bad suggestions, take the durration and lift and LCA info and buy the cam for your combo from YOUR FAVORITE MANUFACTURER AFTER TALKING TO THEM ABOUT YOUR COMBO...but the software prediction gets you into the ballpark, and if yout thinking youll be useing a siggnificantly wilder cam your probably looking to screw up!

 

for the more advanced guys

 

 

http://www.proracingsim.com/dynomationmainpage.htm

 

http://www.auto-ware.com/software/eap/eap.htm

[specialk]

gv, I've seen that book in the store (borders, IIRC) and wondered if it was worth getting. Now that I know the answer, yippee!

 

BTW, I bought the book which is a compilation of the Goodwrench Quest articles from CHP, it was (and is) fantastic! Thanks for that too.

[grumpyvette]

gv, I've seen that book in the store (borders, IIRC) and wondered if it was worth getting. Now that I know the answer, yippee!

 

BTW, I bought the book which is a compilation of the Goodwrench Quest articles from CHP, it was (and is) fantastic! Thanks for that too.

 

SPECIALK (or anyone else)

please buy and watch the CD, on engine assembly and give us YOUR independent impression of the info, as a non-engine builder, but informed hobbiest viewpoint

 

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html

[specialk]

GV (et.al.)

 

I went to Barnes and Noble last night and picked up the book/DVD. I watched the DVD through the first assembly, right up to installing the first piston with rings.

 

My first impression is that this is really complete! It talks about each and every step along the way, truly everything to do after the engine is out of the vehicle. Thinks like 'hidden' water jacket plugs up to EXACTLY the sequence to use to torque the main caps (back 4 caps first, front cap after, including how to set the crank against the thrust bearing).

 

There's a lot of information about machine work, showing exactly how each step is performed at the shop, letting the user know what they can and can't (as well as shouldn't) do themselves. There were only 1 or 2 special tools that are mentioned (specifically the cam bearing tool) and they tell you that because of expense you should just have the shop do it. Otherwise, there's not been one thing so far that almost all of us have in the garage.

 

Tonight I'll watch the rest and post my opinions at that point.

[grumpyvette]

while its very complete and a really good source of instruction especially for guys how have built a limited number of engines it doesn,t get into alot of the finer points like how to hone,the cylinders correctly, what grits to use,how to gap rings correctly for varied applications, how to check most of the clearances, how to set up the oil returns and windage screen, how to dial in a cam, and dozens of other important factors, that make the differance between a good or a great engine

 

the assembly check list

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

be sure you check clearances carefully, a mistake can and will damage the engine, DON,T GUESS

most people tend to tell me Im wrong about that untill they try it both ways yeah the differance is usually minor but five to 10 thousands differance is not rare if the parts are clean and dry versus sprayed with an oil mist first check to make sure that you are measureing correctly, many times the valve actual has more clearance in the flycut clearance notches,or only the very edge of the valves head and the edge of the notch are close and very minor cutting with a tool fitted in a valve guide will clear the problem and the valve has more clearance than measurements taken from the pistons upper surfaces, and that the head gasket thickness and valve train geometry are correct,

check if changing the cam retard/advance or installed possition can be changed to increase the clearance to 0.100 minimum on both the intake and exhaust valves (MOST LIKELY TO WORK WITH THE LEAST PROBLEMS)

 

add a thicker head gasket? ( BUT THAT TENDS TO RUIN QUENCH AND DOES NOT TEND TO BE A GREAT CHOICE ON MOST ENGINES)

 

look over the isky site they and MANY OTHER HOD ROD TOOL SUPPLY SHOPS SELL TOOLS THAT APPEAR TO BE EXTRA LONG STEM VALVES WITH CUTTERS ATTACHED TO FIX THAT PROBLEM

http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/PAGE17.pdf

 

heres a few things that should always be checked on an engine build

 

heads

are the pushrods perfectly strait?

do the pushrods flow oil?

rocker studs/guides torqued correctly?

do the head bolts have washers under the bolt heads? are they the correct length for the cylinder heads in use?

have the heads been pocket ported?

combustion chambers unshrouded?

intake ports gasket matched"

are the valve guides cut to the correct length?

are the heads pocket ported?

is the retainer to valve guide clearance correct?

are the valve guide oil seals installed?

is there valve spring seats installed?

inner damper springs installed?

spring bind height checked? (to exceed max valve lift by .050 min.)

oil return holes cleaned of casting flash?

were steam holes in heads necessary?

were the spark plug threads of a installed spark plug extending into the combustion chamber?

rocker slot to rocker stud clearances ?

retainer to valve guide clearances?

spring bind height checked for the correct spring pressure?

valve lash/preload ?

are the valve springs the correct tension,height?dia.

keeper the correct angle? style? size?

valve seats the correct angles?

valves back cut?

valves the correct length, stemsthe correct diam.

strait?

rockers the correct ratio?

were the valve to valve guide clearances checked?

were the heads milled?

did the head gasket overlap the bore?

what are your valve train clearances?

is the rocker arm geometry correct!

chambers CC,ed

port work..(some steps optional)

 

(1) open throat to 85%-90% of valve size

(2)cut a 4 angle seat with 45 degree angle .065-.075 wide where the valve seats and about .100 at 60 degrees below and a .030 wide 30 degree cut above and a 20 degree cut above that rolled and blended into the combustion chamber

(3)blend the spark plug boss slightly and lay back the combustion chamber walls near the valves

(4)narrow but dont shorten the valve guide

(5) open and straiten and blend the upper two port corner edges along the port roof

(6) gasket match to/with intake and raise the port roof slightly

(7) back cut valves at 30 degrees

(8) polish valve face and round outer edges slightly

(9)polish combustion chamber surface and blend edges slightly

(10) remove and smooth away all casting flash , keep the floor of the port slightly rough but the roof and walls smoothed but not polished.

(11) use a head gasket to see the max you can open the combustion chamber walls

(12) blend but don,t grind away the short side radias

 

 

block

is the oil pump pick-up mounted 3/8"-1/2" from the oil pan floor/

is the windage screen mounted about 1/8" from the rotateing assembly/

is the pick-up brazed to the pump body?

has the oil pump relief piston in the oil pump been checked for free ,easy movement? clearance? spring tension?

is the oil pump pick-up tube inserted too far into the oil pump body,(binding the gears)

has the block been clearanced for the rotating assembly?

has the block been aline honed?

is the crank strait?

are the damper install keyway and threads ok?

counter weights clearanced?

MAGNAFLUXED?

OIL PASSAGES CLEANED?

GALLERY PLUGS INSTALLED CORRECTLY?

has the cam to rod bolt clearance been checked?

piston to valve clearances checked?

piston to bore clearances?

TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE?

what were the piston ring to slot clearances?

RING GAPS?

were the rings all checked individually for end gap in the cylinders they were used/installed in?

were the rings checked to make sure the correct side faced up, and the correct ring was in each groove?

what were the back clearance on the rings?

were the oil ring expanders carefully fitted for correct drag?

were the oil ring scraper ring rails checked for end gap?

total cam lift and remaining clearanceS?

WAS THE CAM DEGREED IN?

main bearing clearances?

what is the main bearing run-out clearance

piston to head clearance? (QUENCH?)

head gasket to coolent holes checked?

magnets installed?

rod bolt to block clearances?

what tq reading is necessay to spin the crank with no rods attached?

are the rod bolts and main caps torqued correctly? (rod bolts checked with a bolt stretch gauge?)

did you check the block for a strait main cap alignment?

what size journals and what were the bearings edge to filet clearance??

are the journals checked for finish and run-out/tapper?

did you use moly lube to assemble?

correct bearing crush?

did you pre-lube before start-up?

did the distributor gear fit the cam gear precisely?

was the distributor oil flow mod done?

was the correct style distributor gear used?

did you check the piston to piston pin bores for fit and clearance?

did the piston pins to snap ring clearance seem overly tight?

if they are pressed pins were they correctly matched and checked for free movement in the pistons?

was the engine ballanced?

cam button installed?, and lock plate installed?

were the rods resized? checked for parrallel bores/were the rods strait?

piston valve clearance notchs correctly located on the pistons? edges smoothed?

were the rods checked for length?

is there a few thousands clearance on the oil pump drive shaft AFTER the distributors bolted down?

did you install a steel collar on the oil pump drive shaft?

was the rod to piston pin side clearance checked? (at 4 places seperated bye 90 degree spots)

does the oil pump drive shaft mid section clear the block with the pump installed?

whats the starter to flywheel gear clearance?

is the pilot bearing to trans imput shaft clearance ok?

is the front motor mount bolt to fuel pump pushrod clearance ok? did the fuel pump pushrod move easily/

are you possitive the pistons were installed with the correct valve relief in the correct location?(eiieeiie) were the pistons installed with the correct side facing forward/

what torque values were used on all fasteners/ were they the correct length and type bolts?

were the bores honed with a torque plate in place?

was the cylinder finish correct for the type rings used?

was the oil pump itself checked for free spin and clearance AFTER THE PICK-UP WAS INSTALLED?

was the cam drive checked for free rotation and drag/

were the oil passage plugs drilled for extra oil flow?

were the lifter bores checked?

cam to timing cover clearance?

cam journal to cam bearing clearances?

was the cam journal run-out checked?

was the cam degreed in or just lined up useing factiory index marks?

has the rod and windage screen to oilpan clearnce been checked?

does the dipstick & tube clear the windage screen?

was the cam lobes/LSA/LIFT CHECKED?

is the deck square/level?

whats the cross hatch hone angle?

what grit hone was used? is it correct for the rings used?

are all the threads clean/clear?

brass freeze plugs installed?

block painted?

a few things to check

 

are the connecting rods installed with the beveled edge facing out on each pair with the bearing installed with the bevel facing out on both the lower and upper rod bearings also?

 

are you using beveled bearing shells that match the cranks throw bevels?

 

what are the bearing clearances? (are they the same checking at 90.120.160 degrees from the first measurement?}

 

what are the connecting rod side clearances?

 

is the crank strait? has it been turned undersize? if so...on ALL the rods? on ALL the mains? or on ALL the BEARINGS JOURNALS OR ONLY SOME?

 

whats the TRUST BEARING CLEARANCE?

 

is the piston side clearance correct?

 

are the pistons installed in the correct cylinders? (intake and exhaust notches correctly located to match the cylinder head)

 

are you POSSITIVE each main cap is in the correct location and FACING THE CORRECT DIRRECTION?

 

did you use MOLY assembly lube?

 

did you check EACH INDIVIDUAL RING ON EACH PISTON for ring gap clearance,AND that the rings fit the piston ring slots correctly? are any rings installed in the wrong ring slots (2nd ring in top slot ETC,)or upside down

 

do the rings have back clearance?

 

were the cylinders CORRECTLY HONED?

 

is the cam drive binding?

 

does the crank contact the windage screen?

does the dipstick tube or dip stick touch the crank at any point?

 

is the oil pump /cam gear binding?

 

did you check that the oil pump mounting bolt does NOT contact the back surface of the rear main BEARING under the main cap?

 

is the block warped, checked carefully?,was it line honed?

 

 

are the piston pins centered? do the pistons rotate thru an arc with little resistance?

 

are there any lock pins, spirolocs, tru-arcs contacting the cylinder walls?

 

are you sure the bearing shells are installed correctly and the locating tabs are in the correct slots?

are they the correct bearings for the application? or did you just assume the part guy knew what he was doing?

did you MEASURE or GUESS, did you at least use Plastigauge and a torqure wrench?

 

 

did you check EACH AND EVERY journal for tapper and roundness

 

did you get the rotateing assembly ballanced???

[kuntry]

Hey, was just curious what you thought of Desktop Dyno 2000. Ive been using it for awhile now and been pretty happy with it. Just not sure about its accuracy.

[grumpyvette]

DD-2000 is much more accurate than most people give it credit for in finding potential trends and PEAK hp numbers GIVEN GOOD DATA, it is far less accurate on predicting the TQ CURVE (especially at low rpms)

ITS a VERY GOOD TOOL, and its fast and easy to use which is a huge plus)

but not nearly as accurate as some of the more expensive software dyno programs at predicting the tq curve

 

just as an example my 383 was predicted at 490hp/490 tq

real numbers were 470hp/505 tq, (flywheel) well withing the error zone youll expect