Almost finished and the Z won't start!

[savageskaterkid]

That's fuel or timing... Check your plugs to see if they are fouled/ wet with fuel...It's no longer an electrical issue in my mind.

 

You could also get a buddy to crank it while you move the distributor slowly and in small incriments. Or get a remote starter switch from sears for $40.

Mike

 

Thats what we did yesterday to get it to actually fire up. I just have 2 variables that are unknown, which are the timing and fuel pressure. I'll check the plugs and it probly isn't a bad idea to replace them either.

 

On a side note, I plan to goto the EAST COAST Z and hopefully pick up another N47 head and work it abit, because I just started school again and I plan to rebuild the motor, and my head has seen better days anyway-so I'm gonna start from scratch.

[savageskaterkid]

UPDATE, the Z is back up and running, this time is stays running. It was grounding issues that caused the problem. Now it runs and all, but if I put it in gear it goes, but only up untill a certain RPM, and then I get a bad miss, what do you think the problem would be? Too little fuel? Too much timing?

[wheelman]

How much of it is put back together now?

If the AFM and other parts are still disconnected I'd get all that back together before trying to diagnose the miss.

 

Wheelman

[savageskaterkid]

Everything is back together, engine wise atleast. No headlights or any other lighting, but the engine is back together completly. It acts the same as before I rebuilt it, and that was because of a vaccum leak where the intake bolted to the head. No leaks anymore, atleast no obvious ones. When I dissconnect the BOV, and just leave the vaccum line open, causing a leak, it still runs the same. I think the BOV might be one of the problems, its a Greddy Type S, which is the replacement for the stock DSM one, but I have it vented to the atmosphere, and I believe its SUPPOSED to leak boost at idle? Could this give me a similar symptom that a vaccum leak would, since technically leaking boost would be a vaccum leak?

 

There is still a bit more tuning with the fuel pressure and timing, but atleast its running. Or should I say was running, I somehow fried a wire for the coil, so I had to jump the coil to keep it going.

[wheelman]

I'm not a turbo car expert but it seems to me that if you have a boost leak after the AFM then the engine woud run rich not lean. This is because the AFM measures a given amount of air entering the intake but less than that is actually getting into the cylinders, at least under boost. A vacuum leak would be just the opposite as more air is drawn in through the leak than is measured.

 

Could your fuel pump or APR be causing a fuel supply problem at higher RPMs which in turn causes the lean condition?

 

It might still be an electrical problem causing a weak spark at higher RPMs.

 

Do yo uhave a way to measure your air/fuel ratio?

 

Wheelman

[savageskaterkid]

Its hard to say, I'm guessing that the fuel pressure and timing will make it run pretty good at idle and such because I may have the fuel pressure tuned to work with that leak at idle. But once the rpms change about 200rpm, the leak is getting worse, and therefor throwing off the a/f ratio that seems good at idle. Does this make any sense to anybody, it makes perfect sense to me.