miamiKnights Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 i recieved my new coil and resistor ballast yesterday. i replaced parts accordingly. when i try to turn the car on it makes the same sound and motions. the starter spins, and the motor just keeps turning over and over. this has been happening since day one of no start 4 weeks ago. i replaced plugs, cables, rebuilt the distributor, double checed firing order, now i replaced the coil and ballast resistor. there is no spark coming from the coil. i have a multi voltage reader now. what do i specifically need to check to get this car to spark and turn over. thank you -miamiknights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rchrd989 Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 I had a similar problem when I had a 1975 280z. Use your chilton book and your multimeter to test the leads off of your ignition control module. When i tested that it said everything was ok and it ended up being the module itself. If you have an autozone nearby they can check them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 ok... I have seen this before... You have to actually check each part of the system... It is fairly common for someone new to a points distributor to get the gap so wrong that there is no spark... The contacts have to actually open and close for the coil to produce a spark... You don't need expensive tools to check your electrical system for faults... I have seen cheap little Volt/OHM meters on the shelves in Target that would work just fine for you... The other important tool is a cheap DWELL/TACH meter... The thing is... If you don't want to buy a meter and learn how to set points... over and over and over every few months... I would ditch the points system and install a Hall effect trigger like the Pertronix unit... These things simply replace the points with a ZERO maintenance breaker plate... They are easy to install without any meters or even understanding of how the ignition works... Install and FORGET IT... No other changes needed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 The ignition system on the 1972 240Z has virtually nothing in common with the later 280Z ignition... other than the spark plug wires are the same... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rchrd989 Posted December 27, 2006 Share Posted December 27, 2006 yea i didnt know if he had a 280 or not. I had a 280 for awhile but i got rid of it as fast as i got it because it was a piece Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miamiKnights Posted December 28, 2006 Author Share Posted December 28, 2006 http://www.classicgarage.com/72.html is this the pertronix unit you mentioned earlier, how does this work. and do you believe it can help with the starting problem. if so im going to buy it, but its still a risk...i could use 80$ to polish my valve cover lol. would it be worth it im asking. your saying im having an igniting problem... because i replaced the coil, i disconnected the spark plug wire from the distributor cap and left it connected to the new coil. i held it down with my screw driver and rag next to the strut tower ground, i try to turn on the car. and spark does not come from the coil. tell me your thoughts on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 28, 2006 Share Posted December 28, 2006 Man... Without testing for voltage at the appropriate places.. I can't tell you shiat... If I were stuck in the desert with no access to a meter I could test it out with my tounge and tell what is wrong... I like to call that the "LICK TEST"... Without buying and using a voltage tester you are in the dark without a flashlight... But I will tell you that points can be a pain in the ass on a regular basis... You have no concept how bad points really are until you get some experience with them... The Pertronix unit is easy to install and it gets rid of the problems with setting points... and the wear issues, and the piss poor spark... That is the FIRST $80 most people spend on a 240Z-car... It is certainly one of the TOP MODS on my list... That aside... Have you confirmed that the points actually open and close as the distributor spins...???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260pos Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 A few things could be giving you grief. You daid that you have a multi-meter, see if you have voltage at the coil. If not does your car have the dual point setup? If so, there is a control box for it. It has been *cough* 20ish years since I had this problem but the control box switches points while you crank. I replaced a whole engine trying to figure out that one, so don’t feel bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miamiKnights Posted December 29, 2006 Author Share Posted December 29, 2006 thanks for bearing with me. i didn't even know that z forums like this existed until about a month ago:biggrin:; i was just fixing my z with a haynes manual and asking my mechanics ( Argentinian((with no schooling)) who owned 240 260 and 280 which he restored himself) words of wisdom and advice. when i started running into electrical problems and this guy left out of the country for a while i got really stuck thanks for the great info. i mean pertronix, msd, or more so the 3.1 stroker is all new and awesome to me. if there is anything else i might have to change down the line(like i just rebuilt the distributor for no reason because pertronix is just a better set up for me)...like you say pertronix is the first thing someone with a z invests in. what are the second or third things someone would invest in. what else should i have done to maybe avoid these problems or future problems. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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