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Everything posted by bjhines

  1. I have done a few sets, both bonded and bolted on. There is no right way to do them. I have always needed them for tire clearance and fit them according to the positions of the tires. A general rule seems to be that the lower edge of the flares can be the same height as the original fender edges. You place the tip of the flare so the it starts at the lower body detail/fillet line and set it so the inner edge is even with the original height. On the fronts; make sure your tires don't hit the front edge of the flares or the airdam sides(this is a typical problem area). With that said
  2. I did it to Rosco's 280Z and he loves them, but the time involved is mighty high.
  3. Awesome, I was looking at making that piece in mirror images, glad you turned me on to these C6 Corvette Z06 parts.
  4. It is only running on 5 cylinders. That is why it is backfiring. You have an ignition problem, likely the spark plug wires.
  5. The other aspect to consider is drag and required downforce at required speed. The drag style wing produces less downforce but improves cd and stability. The drag wing has more consistent performance over a broad range of speeds. The 3d style big-wing produces more downforce as speed increases but also has more drag as speed increases. The wing was designed to work best at a certain speed; and it is tuned to work best at certain parts of the roadrace track.
  6. That was a fun build. We found a few issues that caused some scope creep, but all in all it went very well. My experience with s30 chassis mods made this a more exacting chassis build than most. The electrical system is highly sophisticated and includes proper power distribution, safety/kill system, noise and transient suppression, signal separation and shielding. The drivers position was carefully mocked up and included 2 fitting sessions to finalize position and access to controls. The roll cage is the tightest I have ever seen in an S30. We managed to get the bars out of sigh
  7. 1. There is a lot of access with a rotisserie that cannot be easily had in any other way. 2. There is a chassis dimension guide in the service manuals that should be used to ensure a straight car before you fab the roll cage. 3. The wheel and tire combo is absolutely necessary on hand before you start your project. Seat and steering wheel+mount are also needed for mockup. 4. The front end upper strut mounts may need to be moved rearward(3/4") to increase caster without moving the wheels too far forward.
  8. Stops Flex and seals airflow. Also remove pins for trailer ramp flexibility.
  9. It appears to be a Toyota 4x4 caliper. It may be a stock rotor.
  10. I have noticed that the discharged oil has air pockets that are audible when cycling the system with the engine off. Obviously the air separates once it is in the canister. Then you get non-aerated oil with air pockets occasionally moving with it. The discharge oil is also cooler than circulating oil.
  11. Maintenance is a drawback. I cycle the system and recharge the air side as often as possible. I do not trust it as I have had several times on track that it did not work properly. Air leaks in the AIR gauge plumbing, and air bypassing the O-ringed piston will cause a loss of air charge. Eventually oil will end up on the AIR-side and the canister must be drained on both sides and rebuilt. Observe the peak oil pressure on the OIL-pres. gauge and the AIR-charge on the Accusump gauge. The Accusump should always read higher than the Oil pressure gauge in my system. If the Accusump is lower, t
  12. I also use 2 different sirens and a multi-colored warning light in the TACH that indicates operation of the system. Green is NOMINAL, Yellow and low pitch siren = Discharge, Red and high pitch siren = Less than 10 PSI oil pressure.
  13. Call them yourself. You will be instantly AMAZED at how small and shoddy their literature and print ads really are. If you want ot know exactly how their stuff works then do what I did and try ALL of the available options. I have used them ALL and I stand by my testing and observations.
  14. I called CANTON Racing to clear up that statement. I was told that it was written by "Marketing people" and the technician admitted it was confusing and INCORRECT!
  15. The system refills through a ONE-WAY Valve that ALWAYS allows refill at a restricted rate. The system cannot release oil until the pressure switch releases the oil, Oil which has been brought to PEAK PRESSURE between turns. This description explains why the EPC is sooo much more effective than the "Standard Valves". I am using the system and I have confirmed it's operation on the bench. There is no question as to how this operates or how it is better than the NON-EPC valves.
  16. I tackled the crankcase evacuation system as well. After a few experiments I managed to keep 5"Hg vac at all times through 2 different systems. I used fabricated tall valve covers to clear rockers. I have baffled, push in vents in both covers. I use a catch can plumbed to both covers. The PCV system and exhaust-pulse-scavenging both pull vac on the system catch can. I tried another system as well, but ended up NOT using the electric pump. This is a fairly high current pump. It is similar to a small 12V Shop-Vac. it pulls 5" Hg VAC at 18 AMPS/12DCV. It can flow a L
  17. I would like to clear up some information about the Accusump systems. I monitored oil pressure and other indicators with in-car video. My SBC oil pressure dropped on some hard right handers after braking upon turning in. The dip is brief and the engine is not under load, but it was half the turns on the course. I installed a trap door pan, crank scraper, windage tray, and an EPC Accusump system,and a high pressure spring on the HV oil pump(to make the Accusump more effective). There is some confusion over the basic operation of the various Accusump valves. 1. Mechani
  18. Good call. I have been strung along by bad sellers until the 45 days ran out then no more responses and no product. They know the deal and they should be willing to refund and reinstate the sale to reset the 45 day period. This dude if full of shit and should be reprimanded for trying to steal from you.
  19. Looking at the torque curve, Generally speaking you want to shift "around the peak" ie. 5400@299ftlbs. For a 1500 RPM drop that would be shifting at 6500@282ftlbs which would drop to 5000@287ftlbs. You can leave it in 4th and run to 7500@250ftlbs. Going to a 4.11 rear would bring that non-ideal overdrive into play in more zones.
  20. Hmm... John C. is a smart guy with a lot of experience. He has made some great parts that I have I included in my own projects. I have also added a triangle brace and found that the firewall is not very strong at the top there where we all would like to add the center brace. The strongest part is 5" down where the bottom of the hood latch bracket is welded. Unfortunately the engine is in the way that low down. There have been many different approaches to stiffening this area. Here is mine http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f127/bjhines/V8%20240Z%20project/roll%20cage/Dashbargussets.jpg
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