Roostmonkey Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 I read about this a while back and I didnt think there was a definative answer to this issue. Can I get rid of all that plumbing and valves under the intake? I will be using a standalone and would think that I could program around it not being there.Maby I can lose SOME of it? ( this is on an rb26dett)thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 i'm running a custom intake on my 25, all the maker left me was enough metal to tap 4 pipe threads w/ fittings for my fpr, brake booster, pcv valve, then i T'd my bov, boost controller, and boost guage off the last one (which i'll disperse to the brake booster's and pcv's when i get time instead of running them all to just 1 source) but all i did was screw the throttle body open a little more so i would get SOME air in the plenum, i have it idling at 1100-1200 cold, and when it warms up it goes to about 900-1000, i have no aac, no ficd, no iac, no bung at all supplying already metered air BEFORE the throttle body with exception to the one bung on the turbo's compressor housing which goes to my boost controller and then to the wastegate. so far the only problem it's had is the typical "my car doesn't like an atmospheric bov" where you have to feather the gas a little after you boost hard and try to go into neutral to keep it from dying. i don't think you'll have a problem unless you're running a manifold with individual throttle bodies, then you just need to open all 6 just a little LOL what puzzled me at first was, "why is my idle dropping when it warms up because i have no idle air control valve" LOL , guess it's a/f ratio from cold engine to operating temperature engine heh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted January 26, 2007 Author Share Posted January 26, 2007 Thanks, thats what I wanted to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 How does the line to the brake booster work if your engine is turbocharged? Where's the vacuum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdmanZ Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 It should have a check valve in the line to keep it from pressurizing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 You have a vacuum can right? So idle is enough to store up vacuum for brakes then? I was looking in the skyline manual and there's a drawing of a line running from the intake plenum to a vacuum can, but on my intake, there's no fitting there, just a flat spot like the car it came from didn't have power brakes or something. I still have my aac, but plugged some of the lines. I was wondering if I could use a line from the aac to go to brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 It should have a check valve in the line to keep it from pressurizing. so what if there is not a check valve? does anybody have a subsitute or know off a ony way valve that will work i have a Z31 and the booster connects directly to the intake manifold on the stock config i suppose i can look on the turbo version and see if its that same. but i am going to be running alot more boost than a stock Z31 turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 I think when you call it a one way valve, we're talking about the same thing. It's basically a spring loaded open and shut valve that closes if the pressure reverses direction, and you can probably get a generic one at any auto parts store to splice into the hose anywhere. In n/a systems, there is always going to be a vacuum so you don't necessarily need a check valve, but under boost, the line will inversely receive backpressure. In theory, your turbo isn't spooling up until a somewhat higher rpm than you would be braking no matter how much boost you're pushing, so as long as the rpm is below your turbo's range, your brake booster will pull vacuum. My stipulation was just that I don't know if this is sufficient or not without the addition of a vacuum tank and possibly a vacuum pump to assist it. If you have a vacuum pump, then you cut out the middleman completely. I guess it's a safe bet that a vacuum tank would be necessary, since the skylines came with them, and a vacuum pump would be a little over the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdmanZ Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 Did the skylines come with a vacuum canister? Seems odd. They are usually reserved for cars that don't pull a lot of vacuum at idle i.e. cars with large cams. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 26, 2008 Share Posted February 26, 2008 That's what the schematics in my r32 manual show. It's not very big, and it's mounted right next to the brake master with a check valve in and another one out. No idea why there would be two. Also, I believe that turbodiesels hold the market on vacuum can and electric vacuum pump assemblies because they generally spool up at speeds barely above idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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