matteo Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 ok, so i have lots of gut feelings about how things are supposed to go with my project, but i'm going to lay them out there for critizism. thinks i'm sure about- blasting the car and getting down to bare metal was a good idea fixing all rust and having a professional weld in new metal bought a lot of marine clean, metal ready, and por15. things that might be a good idea- i don't know why i'm so fixated on it, but i really want to por the whole car, and make sure the protection would never chip or let the metal rust. (mostly because the 240z is infamous for rust problems and i've already blasted it) things i'm not sure about- the doors of the 72 240z are troublesome. the locking mechanism is hard to deal with and always messes up, the window cranking devise and lowering/raising device are also hard to deal with. so... i'm thinking the best idea is to leave my car in naked metal untill i fool around with the doors and make sure they're what i want them to be... because i have to paint everything at once... right? to make sure the finish is consistent? i called por15 and they said if you apply a coat of por, wait 2-4 hours, coat it again, wait 2-4 hours, and then coat it with whatever primer you want, i could have the whole car por15ed while still ending up with a primer so i could put a high build onto it and sand down for consistency? i am working with someone who frequently paints, but isn't really a painting buff. since this is also the body kit section. does anyone know of a good hood which doesn't have a ridiculously high cowl but the cowl is still noticable and functional? i've got $11,000 into this project so far and really don't see an end in site, is anyone with me on that one? -matteo 1972 240z - ground up. mostly just ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxjoeyxxeb Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Hi, My bodywork endeavor is just starting, and I already got to replace the rocker panels which is going to cost as much as I paid for the car! I am going to get a reaction research cowl hood. It is a well built 2" cowl that you can have vents on the side or not. Its about $500 shipped. Or you could go with a hood that looks like the late 90s early 00s camaros by I beleive 280zone on the boards here. Good luck and I'm sure we all want to see some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Dude: I used por15 on my jeep frame, Not to impressed with it! I did what they said to do in the instructions.2 coats of por15 and top coat.Guess what the rust came back! Maybe some one else had better luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 You should check with the paint house to see if the paint and primer your going to use will react with the por15,I've never heard of any one painting the whole car with por15? It's usualy used on the underside.Epoxy primer is probably better and seals out moisture.But Im not a body guy so check with the PRO"S. It's To much work to ruin the finish!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Prime the parts that are done so they don't rust.epoxy primer,seals out moisture and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 yeah. wow. that's interesting about the por not working. did you paint it at the right temp? i think i saw the hood that i'd like on msa, i'm sure if i called them they could give me the actual hood. anyone know of a good reason not to por the whole car? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 that post scares me. haha. did you marine clean and metal ready and remove the rust first? yeah. if i went through all this and i either have rust or a messed up finish... that'd be bad. i was thinking if i used a high build coat i could sand it down wicked smooth and it wouldn't really matter what's underneath... does this have any validity? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buzz Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Yeah I wire wheeled it first to get the heavy stuff off,marine cleaned several times to degrease it good,metal readyed it twice,I did what it said on the instructions but more times,plus 2 coats of por15 and top coat.I think it's just epoxy paint.But check with the pro's!!! Epoxy primer and then high build primer should work just as good if not better.Go to body work and paint fourm here and ask questions and do a Search? Paints need to be compatable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TeamNissan Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 Well I would like to say I SWEAR by por15. Alot of people have probs with it by not preping it or making sure its 100% mixed. I'll tell you what though if it is applied right it is 2nd to NONE. Dont go painting the outside of the body panels with it either lol. I did the backs of mine to prevent rust though and epoxy sealer on the surface. That will hold up for a long long LONG time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 ok, so don't por the whol thing. haha. por15 is pretty expensive, so i guess i can take that advice. the thing is, the car had been blasted, and now is being worked on. so it's been bare this whole time (about a month) and will be bare for about another month. por15 is was first thought because with the 3 step process it's supposed to be able to handle the surface rust, and might even do better with the surface rust. is there anything else that would be good, because i know once rust starts, it's not going to stop. and i'm sure there's at least really minimal surface rusting on the car as it is. i could ask for it to be lightly blasted again i guess...? after the por15 that i'm thinking about coating the interior with, i have 100 sq. feet of dynamat. would that cover the interior space? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo Posted February 16, 2007 Author Share Posted February 16, 2007 Ok. so here're some pics of the work which is being done. also, in the frame rails there are places to bolt on the crossmember. but there were also holes about a food infront of those. i might be ridiculous in asking, but i don't remember what they're for. any help? just curious. also, does anyone know of a place besides MSA who'll sell rear panels that go under the tail lights? After some work by a friend... here come the new floors. the sad thing is... when taking out the old floors, there was less than half as much metal to take out than what is now replaced. a magnet would be able to stick to my car now!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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