Guest Anonymous Posted March 10, 2001 Share Posted March 10, 2001 I was ready to order my blockhugger headers non ceramic with headerwrap to go around them. What exactly does the ceramic coating do for you? Should I pay the extra bucks or just go with the header wrap or both? Thanks Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted March 10, 2001 Share Posted March 10, 2001 Ok headerwrap is some nasty stuff and I would recommend avoiding it unless you have money to throw at new headers every now and then. This stuff is notorious for trapping moisture and promoting the rust gremlins to have a buffet on your piping. Coatings are a MUCH better way to go...but it isnt cheap as you know. What the ceramic coatings (and wrap for that matter) do for you is to keep the heat inside the pipe better which promotes efficiency of the header to flow the gasses away from the spent cylinders, they also lower underhood temperature quite a bit and therefore give a lower intake temperature which also promotes more power...and ofcoarse it looks SHWEET! If you have the cash, go for the coating! Its worth it. It also keeps the headers from rusting and they stay looking sharp for along time! Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 10, 2001 Share Posted March 10, 2001 Craig, professional ceramic coating is the way to go, but if you are a budget (little to no $$$) I suggest chrome headers, or even The Eastwood Company's high temp silver header paint. I used some of their grey manifold paint on a cast iron exhaust manifold and the stuff is great! It does exactly what they say it does as long as you follow directions. Shoot, you could even get a powder coating kit from them and powdercoat those things yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 12, 2001 Share Posted March 12, 2001 I can coat your block hugger headers inside and out for 130.00. The header wrap is not good. coating is the best way to go , major heat reduction not to mention the rust protection. Go check out my website. Tony Giles ------------------ My Z is unfortunatly on the back burner,due to the shop,but not to much longer!! www.speedtechcoatings.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racin_Jason Posted March 12, 2001 Share Posted March 12, 2001 Tony, I might be interested in sending some buisness your way. Can you quote me a price for some full length Hooker Comps? Also how about the forementioned headers along with 2 6' sections of 3" pipe? You can answer here if you like or directly at Drag_Race_Nut@hotmail.com. I'm hoping you can discount a fellow member. Thanks much, Jason ------------------ 71 240Z soon to be 350'd 73 Camaro street/strip car w/490BBC,10-point cage, "budget bully" 2000 F150 on 35's have a look at my toys at http://www.JasonsHobbyShowcase.homestead.com/homepage.html "If speed kills..Im a DANGEROUS GUY!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted March 12, 2001 Share Posted March 12, 2001 This is in NO WAY pointed towards Tony(I did not use him for this, but plan to use him in the future), but be careful when picking your "professional". I have gotten my intake,fuel rail and header coated by a coating shop and the header is now rusting($242). I have seen this same shops work before and it looked great. I even know of someone on this board that has used this shop without problems, so far(not installed yet). Get some of their customers #'s and call! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 15, 2001 Share Posted March 15, 2001 Actually I've seen wrap work pretty well. It reduces engine bay heat a great deal and you can almost touch the header it insulates so well. Done correctly I think it's ability to hold heat is nearly as good if not better than using ceramics. However - the heat that gets trapped by wrap embrittles the header material over time and rust IS an issue. Ceramics are usually done inside and out of a header and this helps prevent the heat fro embrittling the metal. Ceramics can also "heal" from scratches depending upon what's used and this can cut down on rust. Right now I'm waffling between using cheapo' headers and wrap or trying to find some decent sized headers from some place like Sanderson and doing it right the first time. Cheap (block hugger) headers are all of about $100 or so, the Sandersons are quite a bit more so this is a tough decision.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted March 15, 2001 Share Posted March 15, 2001 Flowtech ceramic blockhuggers from Jegs $197.90 delivered. Best deal I could find. Bolted right up. I have straight plugs, I've heard they don't fit with angle plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 16, 2001 Share Posted March 16, 2001 What size primaries? I ordered straight plugs for my RPM heads as I was told headers would be an easier fit - sounds like that might be true! $197 isn't too hateful, how well has the coating held up? I was looking at the Hooker toobs too - wonder if they would work with these headers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 16, 2001 Share Posted March 16, 2001 Jason long tube comps run 200.00, and the 3" pipe is normally 20.00 per ft. sonds like you have 12' of pipe @240.00 I could do it all for 350.00 Hope that helps. Tony ------------------ My Z is unfortunatly on the back burner,due to the shop,but not to much longer!! www.speedtechcoatings.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 Good point, Ross! I had forgotten about that. I hope to keep my car free from any major leaks, especially hazardous ones! I just don't like the looks of the wrap, although I have thought about it... David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 I felt their was one major con of header wrap missing. It can easily absorb a lot of oil if you have an engine leak/blowup or whatever and this makes it a rather large potential fire hazard as well. Given it can be v. close to starter terminals/arcing wires letalone it may just get that hot on its own depending on your AFR. Even just a hot valve adjustment (hydraulic lifters/roller or flat tappet) can send some oil flying around. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmanadam Posted March 19, 2001 Share Posted March 19, 2001 I'm using 2001 ceramic block hugger by hooker, summit $265, they also work with angle plugs. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted March 20, 2001 Share Posted March 20, 2001 Header wrap can ineed be a problem if it soaks up oil - hard as hell to put out and no sparks are needed to get it going either. However if you coat the wrap with some of the sprays that are out there it shouldn't soak up oil or be darned resistant to it. I'm still not sure what I'll do for headers but the time is fast approaching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 20, 2001 Share Posted March 20, 2001 I just took the wrap off my headers(and won't be putting it back on) ...The headers had less than 3,000 miles on them and the passenger side is already just about shot. Crystalized and checked from the heat with rust in the primaries. Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted March 20, 2001 Share Posted March 20, 2001 Header wrap is probably the most efective way to reduce underhood temps but it does have the cons stated. What was not stated is that it can be used on SS without concerns about rust and cracking. As for it soaking up oil, I can testify to that. Couple months ago I blew a head gasket on the top of the head and put 20# boost in the crankcase on the top end for a couple of seconds before I realized what happened. Most of the oil was forced out of the front seal and made a freaking, scary mess. The wrap was soaked with oil. I used 2 cans of brake cleaner and soaked the wrap while it was still on the DP until it was dripping pretty good. I then used a lot of paper towels to help dry it out. After restarting the car, it make a stink but eventually burned off. Just thought I would drop that tidbit in case anyone had wrap with oil and thought it was done for. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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