Guest nezzie76 Posted March 27, 2002 Share Posted March 27, 2002 What are your guy's procedures when removing the rear strut? The manual I have only covers the front and not the rear, which is what I'm doing so far. I can't seem to get the control arm to release the strut because it seems like I would have to pull both of the parts connected to the strut about 1 inch in each opposite direction, and I can't seem go get them to move outward more than a couple of mm. Thanks, Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 27, 2002 Share Posted March 27, 2002 If I am not misunderstanding your post, I'm assuming that you are trying to pull the strut pin (one long single pin) out from both sides? Aside from this, the strut must be removed at the top of the tower, the brake line disconnected, the half-shaft unbolted from the companion flange (strut side of shaft), and if you do not (or cannot remove the spindle pin) unbolt the swaybar, and then unbolt the lower control arm bushing retainers. Then you have removed the entire strut and lower control arm assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nezzie76 Posted March 27, 2002 Share Posted March 27, 2002 So Terry, It sounds like I'm going to have to get a couple new pins huh? So do you just hammer one side until it pops out the other then? Thanks, Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 Unfortunately, that was the way I always removed mine before buying Dan's tool (which BTW, cost less than both spindle pins cost). The best tip here is that if you have time, then soak the ends with penetrating oil, and also squirt some in the cam bolt hole in the middle too. This may help quite a bit if allowed to soad a few days. You can always remove the entire assembly (strut and control arm) if this will suit you purposes, and you won't have to go to all the trouble of the pin then. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 gee Nathan ,I was hoping you would buy Dan Betha's strut pin removal tool so I could borrow it from you.Have you found me some strut cartidges yet.Get the tool,I have the pins on the junkers out back.Did you get your coilovers? I had some Bilstein aluminum coil over sleeves bored out and finally got my cast iron headers milled too.I have this new half turn rottisserie That I got at a garage sale: it is called a handy man jack and I can buldog em like a cowboy onto their side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nezzie76 Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 Okay, I may be mixed up in my terms. The thing that I am trying to describe is an arm that is connected both to the center of the car, and reaches out to the strut. It is smaller at the center and when it reaches out to the strut it is about 8 inches wide or so. The bulky strut housing sits on the inside between the two ends of the arm. The is a bolt (on the strut) on each side and the bolt goes through the hole on the arm and a nut with bushing sits on the end of the bolt. I can't seems to disconnect it from there. Sorry about the foolishness but this is my first time working on suspensions. Thanks, Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 28, 2002 Share Posted March 28, 2002 These spindle pins, in general, are extremely hard to remove (unless you have a tool sold by one of our members that helps a lot). The pin passes through what I think you are describing as the lower control arm, through the strut, and back through the other side of the lower control arm, and has a nut, washer, and rubber washer on both sides of this pin. To remove the spindle pin you must unbolt a cam bolt (that holds the spindle pin in place) that is dead center in the middle of this spindle pin, in a hole in the strut housing. You must remove the nut (it's on the very bottom of the strut housing), and while protecting the threads of this bolt, drive it out the other way (back up through the top). It's a tapered bolt so it will only come out the top side. When this bolt is out, the spindle pin can then be driven out. Here is the big problem. Thru years of use, the spindle pins usually corrode or rust into the strut and/or bushing sleeves. When this is a severe case, the pins are nearly impossible to remove. If you try to hammer them out, you may be successful, but the end of the spindle pin will be destroyed (threaded part), and thus the pin will need to be replaced ($22 each). Once the spindle pin is removed, then the strut can be separated from the lower control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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