383 oil pan question

gretchen/jason · May 6, 2007

Just saw a show on a 383 build up and i know the block has to be clearanced but thy also installed a oil pan that had recesses in it for the crank . Is this necessary or will a stock pan work .

Jason

silicone boy · May 6, 2007

Don't chance it. Having built a stroker and having to clearance the block and rods, you don't want all that good work to go to hell because you cut corners on a stupid oil pan.

getZ · May 6, 2007

A stock pan will work with a 400 crank. If you need a little more ground clearance you may consider a corvette pan or if you want to spend a few more bucks on an after market pan. Somebody posted they liked a canton or B+B pans.

Be real careful clearancing the oil pan rails on the block as to much grinding will cut into the water passages.

gretchen/jason · May 6, 2007

No im not into cutting corners and im sure a oil pan to clear the crank couldnt cost to much . Not sure how much clearincing will be needed as im also using the sbc 400 rods as they are forged rods and i allready have a complete set this way i can use the stock 350 pistons as the engine only has 7 thousand miles on it .

If i measured corectly the rods are 5.565 as oposed to the 5.7 rods .

Jason

280zwitha383 · May 6, 2007

I run a stock oil pan on mine. What I did was put the oil pan on, rotate the crank a few times which marks the pan and then "clearance" where the marks are with a rounded hammer (ballpeen?). Of course it's better to run an oil pan that holds more oil and if I had to do it again that's what I would do. More oil is supposed to cool the engine better also.

grumpyvette · May 6, 2007

the stock pan WILL usually clear but in most cases a few wacks with ball peen hammer on the inside rail corners opposite the rods outter edge are usually required to gain a few thousands IF necessary. BUT bif your going to buy a new pan Id suggest these, yes it might require a few wacks with some rods but its dirt cheap and well built

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/131229/

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=7101R&line=WYS

slightly more expenjsive

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP100LT&line=MWM

OLD POST BELOW

"should I run a couple quarts low on oil to lower windage losses?"

"will a high volume pump pump the pan dry?"

I love this #$%%^ .....you can,t have it both ways, THINK IT THRU..on one side we have the guys that say run less than 7 qts in an 8 qt oil pan and the next thing you read is some guy who states that the oil pumps pumping the pan dry and sucking air because all the oils been pumped into the heads and lifter gallery.....YOU CAN,T HAVE IT BOTH WAYS, the truth is that about 2-3 qts are in the upper engine under high rpms (depends on the parts used) and that you NEED about 3 qts MINIMUM in the sump to keep the pick-up covered under hard accelleration or decelleration,.....to prevent the pump sucking air.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MIL%2D32250&autoview=sku

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP100LT&line=MWM

if theres 2-3 qts in the upper engine ITS NOT in the sump and won,t be causeing windage problems IN A CORRECTLY DESIGNED SYSTEM, at high rpms, because the sumps now got 2-3 qts LESS than at idle. Its not the amount of oil its how well you control that oil that matters as long as there ENOUGHT OIL.

I run a 10 qt custom built oil pan, but I also have a oil cooler remotely mounted and a larger than standard oil filter, I run 10 qts but that effectively leaves about 8 qts in the oil pan BEFORE I rev the engine and about 6 qts in the sump at high rpms(well under the windage screen)

the milodon windage screen and crank scraper is a whole lot more effective at returning the oil pushed by the crank back into the sump (the real reason a windage screen is prefered over the less effective windage tray,than the stock windage tray thats only function is to limit the amount of oil beaten to a froth by the spinning crank assembly. theres no question that the milodon windage screen is superior in design

heres a cost effective pan that fits some cars

http://www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com/order_part.php?item=CP100LT&line=MWM

you might want to think of it this way... one-two quarts too much and youll run the risk of lost power due too windage,losses,lack of oil control and burning excess oil past the rings, one or two quarts too low and you might burn bearings,overheated valve springs, and a wiped cam.....personally Id rather build the oil control system to correctly handle the oil flow and oil return ,keep a very close watch on the oil level and if I must screw it up ID rather be a 1/2 qt higher than lower....add a windage screen and a well designed baffeled oil pan and if you choose too run a qt low, but don,t get crazy, remember most of those guys that are racing with 2-3 qts low in the oil pan want to get every last hp they can and pull the engines for detailed inspection and parts replacement at least once a season and DON,T RUN ON THE STREET or depend on the car for transportation,

IN A CORRECTLY DESIGNED SYSTEM,much but not all of the oil flow back to the sump is routed to the rear/front drains and mostly avoids the spinning crank in route to the sump

Bearings and oil flow

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/us/us90126.htm

http://www.thirskauto.net/BearingPics.html

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

http://data.melling.com/Select/small_block_chevy.php

http://data.melling.com/Select/big_block_chevy.php

http://www.thirskauto.net/Engine_Thrust_Bearings.html

http://www.engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/crankinstall.html

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20128.htm

http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm99828.htm