turbo dizzy? from 280zx

[Guest FairladyZS30]

can i use it on my carburated l28

[Guest TeamNissan]

can i use it on my carburated l28

[David K]

Just think no. Get a distributor with the 12-80 module from an n/a 280zx.

 

http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/

 

POINTS vs ELECTRONIC IGNITION

Points distributors are an obsolete technology when it comes to high performance engines. The reason is that Dwell (the amount of time the points stay open) changes if there is even a tiny bit of play in the distributor shaft. Dwell directly affects ignition timing, so any slight rocking back and forth of the shaft puts your ignition timing all over the place...not good on any motor.,

 

Electronic distributors are usually rock-solid when it comes to timing. Shaft play can still cause slop in the distributor, but generally doesn't cause the timing to fluctuate the same way.

 

 

Nissan made three electronic ZCAR distributors

 

from 1975-'83, I call 'em D1,D2,D3

• D1 came on '75-78 cars. It came with 1 or 2 internal magnetic pickups inside.
  This distributor uses a magnetic reluctor and pickup to send a strong pulse to the FI brain underdash, which fires the coil. This is considered a "Magnetic Trigger" distributor.
  
• D2 came on '79-83 cars. It came with a built-in ignition module on the side
  This uses a magnetic reluctor wheel and small pickup coil to send a pulse to the ignition module on the side of the distributor, which fires the coil. A simple, self-contained ignition system. Pre-1981 models used the E12-80 IC module, '81-83 models used the E12-92.
  
• D3 came on '81-83 turbos. It uses the FI brain and a crank-firing system.
  These require the turbo FI brain and several sensors, I doubt if it could be wired into any other Z without a lot of trouble

Nissan made two ZCAR distributor IC modules from 1979-'83

 

 

• E12-80 1 top plug (2 terminals). Used on 1979-7/80 ZX, Maximas, B210.

• This module works best on carbureted motors. The dwell curve is preset into the module, it only needs the distributor and coil to function.

  
   
  

• E12-92 1 top plug, 1 side plug. Used on 8/81-83 ZX's, Maximas.
  

  According to the shop manual, the 2nd plug on the side is for a spark advance signal from the brain and other sensors. I found when using a E12-92 in place of a E12-80 it automatically retards the timing 8 degrees, most likely because there is no input to the side plug. Even setting the time back to stock leaves the engine feeling very sluggish, so I don't recommend it on carbureted motors. If your car is fuel injected and came with the module, great. If you want to swap a ZX distributor into a carbureted motor, use the E12-80.

  
  

E12-80

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WIRING A 280ZX DISTRIBUTOR INTO A 240Z

 

 

 

This mod converts a 240Z to an ZX electronic distributor. It's not needed on a 280Z or ZX which already have electronic ignitions.

• Find a 1979-1983 280ZX distributor, any year body can be used. But if it's '81-83 it will have the E12-92 module, you will need to locate a E12-80 to replace it.
  
• Remove and clean the metal rear of the IC module so it can ground itself to the side of the distributor.
  
• Remove the triangular hold-down plate on the base of the distributor. Burnish it, as well as the spot where it contacts the distributor and replace...this helps everything ground well to the block. Note that the hold-down plate rotates, you may need to play with the position to get the proper timing mark range you want.
  
• Use quality spade lugs and wire with TIGHT crimps, and solder the wire to the spade connections if possible. Don't solder or crimp onto the E12-80, just make sure the spades fit on tight.
  
• You will need to buy a L28 distributor base for the front cover if this is a 240Z. Motorsport Auto carries them.
  
• A 240 tach will not work with this setup. It uses a inductive pickup that isn't compatible with the signal from the E12-80. There are two solution: Replace it with a 75-78 280Z tach and connect the tach sensor lug to the - terminal on the IC module. If the tach jumps around, solder a 7500-10,000 ohm resistor inline with the sensor wire to reduce the signal voltage. If it still won't work buy a Autometer #3990 black face tach.
  
• WARNING: if you have a MSD or Crane, DON'T hookup the module or tach directly to the coil. The 450 volts can fry it. Follow the ignition's hookup guide.