triple B Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 Well my Z31 RB25 swap is going well i have a spare cross member i am modifying to get the motor mounted up after i pull the VG this sunday:mrgreen: i am tearing down the RB right now and i am havin problems getting the cam sensor off the timing cover are there more than 3 bolts hodling it on i see where it looks like there might be 3 screws on the end the sensor but they have no heads so i thought they were guide pegs i can't locate my thumb drive with my service manual on it at present so any input or suggestions would be helpful as this is the only thing holding up the teardown Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted June 26, 2007 Share Posted June 26, 2007 it's just the 3 10mm bolts that hold it into the cam, then just gently pry around the thing till it pops off in your hand. first remove cas, then you can remove upper cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 ok thats what i thought but its bein a bugger. guess i just have to keep prying all around till it comes off. nice car by the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 thank you =] ONLY USE GREDDY TIMING BELT!! and don't overtighten the belt or it'll end up with 19 bent valves like my other rb25 lol. do an n1 water pump too, $239 at top hat performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted June 27, 2007 Author Share Posted June 27, 2007 yeah both are on the to buy list for parts. i am lookin for cams to. the HKS and Tomei ones are pricy but the only ones i have been able to find pistons and rods are no problem just have to decide between .020" or .040" over. and i was going ferrea for the valve train upgrading to a gt35r turbo as well already have the RB20 oil pan from a 200ZR and the greddy intake manifold oh and at least a 1.5mm headgasket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z U L8R Posted June 27, 2007 Share Posted June 27, 2007 nice. 25psi on a 35r should be in the 560rwhp ball park, give or take depending on tune. that's a friend of mine's set up on an aem ems. i'd like to sell my power fc and get an aem myself. all my internals are stock cept a commetic 1.2mm and arp head studs. i don't really want to take my t belt off again to put my n1 water pump on but as it gets hotter and hotter outside i might have to. my friend with the 35r uses his in an s13 drift car he's actually thinking of going gt30/71 instead. i'm not sure what mm was in my other rb25 before the t belt broke but compression across the board was 135psi. my new one stock was 170ish, first thing i did was tear it down and put the 1.2mm in there so now it's 145ish, which makes me think the first one had maybe a 1.4mm if i was you i'd prolly go .020 first, just in case, so if you need it machined again then you can go .040, instead of .040 off the rip, then if it breaks you need a whole new block or a resleave. anywho goodluck with it, sounds like you're definately on the right path. take care Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple B Posted June 28, 2007 Author Share Posted June 28, 2007 yeah i was leaning towards the .020" just because of that reason. i got the sucker off just needed a bigger pry bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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