Turbo swap runs like crap,

[Jason81NA,82RBtt]

This post is going to be pretty long because it is a last resort. I helped a friend turn his 1979 280zx into a turbo car. I sold him my L28ET, because I'm installing an RB20DET.I toasted the pistons in the L28. I then install a set of dished NA piston into the F54. I bought a HKS 1mm headgasket and a set of total seal rings from a another friends failed NA build up.This is why I didn't use Turbo pistons and the 1mm instead of 2mm gasket. Before I blew up the L28 was running fine, the only reason I blew the motor was the wastegate stuck during a race and I didn't back off(bad idea). Well now the motor has another turbo that doesn't stick, and is intalled into my friend car. Ever since the swap the motor has not run right. It will build 7psi(full)boost under no load. Here is what I have replaced water temp sensor,cap rotor,wires,plugs,coil, and intake manifold and gasket. I have adjusted the valves,tps,timing,cam timing. I have converted to the Z31 stuff and then tested with 2 maf's. I have test the motor without the o2 sensor,tps,knock sensor, and maf. Here is what the motor does.... It will not idle and will run very very rich, blows brown soot and clouds up the yard with. It has fouled a set of NGK iridium plugs. It never ran right with the stock ecu but would not run rich, after the Z31 swap the motor started running rich. If you drive the car it will read lean unless you hold it at WOT then it will slowly build power and boost on the A/F ratio starts to light up from being off the chart lean. it will run perfect from 4k until a false rev limit of 5.5k and sometimes until 6k but never higher than that, even under no load. but if you ever back off the throttle you will have to go through it all again, hold WOT and wait. If you are tring to just drive the car it will be so lean that it start slowing down. If the MAF is unhooked the motor will run off the limp home map and idles fine and will rev up under the 3.5k like it is supose to. once the MAF is hooked up the motor will stumble to a stall. Could it be that the MAF is hooked up wrong??Whats with the boost in neutral??After I checked the cam timing I set it to the #2 pos. and lost some compression, is this right??

[Jason81NA,82RBtt]

I decided in a last ditch effort to reinstall the stock NA computer,harness,AFM,distributor shaft,and distributor. Guess what the motor runs great, GREAT I mean. A little lean at idle but once you step on the throttle it goes over to rich. We have ordered a Vortech FMU so that we can turn up the boost. But I would like to let poeple know that this does indeed work. I guess we will doing the fuel enrichment Ol' Skool style for now. He is going to save up and get a SDS. If we do get spark knock I will loan him my HI6-S that has timing retard built in. I have used this ignition on his brothers car when he got a SDS that only controlled the fuel. That motor ran a 13.1@113mph stock turbo and 14psi. So I know that this will work. This advice could be handy for those that can get there hands on a turbo motor but not a harness and computer.

 

Jason Gillick

feel free to email if you have any questions

typezx@hotmail.com

 

PS the motor is using the 280cc injectors.

[cygnusx1]

With the TOTALLY stock EFI and a RRFPR, I made an easy 265rwhp at 15psi intercooled and drove it for three years. It ran GREAT. There is nothing wrong with it as long as you stay on the safe side of detonation. I ran about 25-27 deg-btdc at idle to get the best results. Just keep it under 5500rpm at 15psi or else you run into leanness with the stock injectors. I ran the FP up to about 65psi at 15psi boost.

[Jason81NA,82RBtt]

Thanks for info I'm sure it will come in handy as we get started on uping the boost a little. What system are you running now?

[cygnusx1]

Megasquirt MS-II, 42# injectors, Wideband O2.