wire harness layouts?

[ZR8ED]

My progress has been delayed, so until I get myself back on track, I'm thinking of the "while I'm at it" syndrome that is already affecting my brain.

 

Does anyone have some pics of clean wiring layouts ie at the megasquirt end of the harness and the inj/sensor ends?

 

I figure I will have 26 wire connections, and I'm looking at how I can minimize wire routing etc. I am thinking of using a master ground wire to attach all the injectors and sensors to, and I'm not to sure how I can neatly tie into a single covered wire in multiple locations along its length.

 

Not sure if the crude drawing will work.

 

--------+--------+---------+

 

Dash indicates the main wire, and the plus signs are the connection point for grounds to specific devices.

 

I may be able to get a way with 1 main ground wire that branches to a "Y" with smaller branches that go to individual sensors/inj The purpose of the main "Y" is this is going on my VG30ET and I want to run a set of wires down each side of the plenum. The other sensors are all very close to where the injectors are wired, so I should have very few wires visible accross the engine.

 

Any pics or links to pics of harnesses or wiring diagrams would be helpful

 

Thanks!

Scott.

[Guest 240 4U2NV]

I'm not sure what the best way to tie into a main line with multiple branches is but I do know how the Good Car audio/alarm/starter guys do it. You would start by striping a small area of the insulation away from the main wire. You will see that the single wire is actually many small strands, split the strands into two groups so that there is a hole going through the middle of them. Now take your branch line and strip the insulation about an inch from the end. Thread the bare branch wire through the hole in the main line then wrap the branch line once around the main line on each side of the hole and then back around itself. Then solder the lines together and cover with electrical tape or heat shrink if you can.

[hoohaa]

This is exactly what I'm planning to do when the time comes to wire up the motor and MS. I want to use a single heavier gauge ground wire (probably like 10 or 12 awg) and remove patches of insulation, solder in jumpers to all the grounds on the motor, then seal the connections up with good heat shrink.

 

The 12 gauge wire is more for mechanical strength than for conductance, I figure that it will take a beating if I'm constantly stripping and soldering to it, and it needs to be fairly tough.

 

The DB37 side connection can be done simply by stripping off enough of the ground wire insulation, laying it over or wrapping it around each MS grounded DB37 pin, then soldering it.

 

I would also like to see pictures of people's wiring harnesses. Especially if they took lots of time to do a nice clean job. There are not a lot of MS wiring harness pictures that I have seen on the various forums in which I lurk.

 

I don't know where it is, but there is a picture of an L28 Z car (perhaps BRAAP's?) that has a pretty clean looking wiring harness. What I like specifically about this car is that the injectors were wired in such a way that the wire fit inside a very small split loom and stretched in a very straight line across the tops of the injectors. It came out looking very clean.

[Careless]

remove patches of insulation, solder in jumpers to all the grounds on the motor, then seal the connections up with good heat shrink.

 

this is what most would do, until they find out that the heatshrink cant slip over 3 ends of the wire. your best bet is to heatshrink all wires so that it's as close to the T area where it's soldered, and get it real close. Then fold the hanging wire carefully back against the main wire, and then heat shrink it tightly with a larger guage heatshrink, then you can curve it back to the injectors, carefully, so that you don't stretch the shrunken heatshrink to the point where it cracks.

 

and make sure that if you're using copper wire (most would), that you don't heat it too much or use a soldering iron that is more than 15 - 20 watts, as you will heat up the copper and crystalize it, so that it snaps when you bend it (which you sort of have to do)

 

I'm wondering if any electrical place has small snap-in plastic T-wired covers, so that you can snap them over a nicely soldered T, and then heatshrink up to the ends of the T, to seal them.

 

But they'd have to be thin so that they are nice to look at, or not look at, which would be the point in making it unnoticeable.