hughdogz's 1982 280ZX-T

[hughdogz]

Here's my 280ZX-T.

 

 

I've owned it since 2002 (however, I've owned z-cars since 1998). The previous owner had already installed the aero kit, new paint and 17" rims in addition to the custom diamond tuck interior. I was really impressed (and thankful) that he did all the bodywork and interior himself. I think I got a really good deal for $4750!!

 

Now for the mechanicals, the only upgrades on the car when I bought it was the KYB GR2 struts. I've done a lot to it since then, and I'll update the thread soon.

 

Over the years, I've been amassing various performance parts, TOOLS, experience and knowledge (not to mention a couple more z's ). I think that now my skill level and confidence is just high enough to start tackling some semi-serious projects that I've been planning and researching for years...

 

I think that the bretheren here at Hybridz (and the incredible z's at the MSA shows) have probably been the most helpful and inspirational to get me going on building-up a high-performance Z...thanks everyone for that.

[hughdogz]

Finally making some slow progress on the install...I'm using 2.25" tubes.

 

It will fit!! It took awhile just to figure out how to mount it. It hangs from the radiator core support in two places using bolted connections and "spacer-sleeves". I made an adjustable support for the bottom (basically a threaded rod that screws into the IC boss with a flanged nut at the bottom all jam-nutted).

 

 

(sorry for the blurr)

 

This is the part I hate...cutting into the "headlight support". Easy does it.

 

 

Hmmm...I had to take out little more than I thought...it doesn't look like it, but the tube will clear the headlight easily after I trim the headlight bracket...

 

 

Damn, this is actually going to work!!

 

 

One mandrel 45 degree and I should be there!!

 

I knew it would be tight getting the CAI around the end tank...

 

I know, you're probably wondering why I chose to go through the headlight bucket...I thought that this way the bends will be more gentle instead of making hard 90's right out of the IC. I'm going to get a big enough pressure drop "as-is" with the LONG core (23.5 x 11 x 3)".

 

Eventually, I'll be using a Weber TB, HKS BOV and '75 intake so I'll have to rework this 2.25" unfortunately. I'm reading Corky Bell's book again and I want to incorporate a 15 degree "increaser" to go to from 2.25" to 3" for the 3.25" throttle body OD. Something like this:

l

 

It shouldn't be too hard to make...even easier if you have a CAD modeler that does sheet metal unfolding:

 

I might have to get the radiator inlet angled too because space will be so tight with the bigger diameter...

 

[Edit: 8/3/2007] Made a better lower IC mount...that other one wasn't going to cut it. The flange on the nut rotates, so I can use it to get everything tight.

 

I still have a LOT to learn about welding, but it sure is fun practicing!! I might have a full minute of trigger time under my belt now.

 

 

[Edit]

 

[Edit: 8/9/2007] Well, the shipment that I need to complete the job (3" intake tubes, clamps, hoses, reducers, etc.) that the UPS girl dropped off was for the WRONG CUSTOMER!! Some guy in New York that must be putting in a dual exhaust is gonna be pretty pissed off too. No way I'll have this done by Sunday now for the Blue Lake show...well at least the pressure is off for now I guess.

 

I have to wait until tomorrow to hear back from them since the company is on the right coast...I'm waiting to hear if I should send the parts back to MD or NY...they better reimburse the shipping.

 

Time to work on ducting...I don't want to make any more cuts until I have all the pieces laid out!!

[Edit]

 

[Edit: 8/10/2007]

Added some trim pieces so I don't rub holes in my IC tubes:

 

 

It doesn't look like they line up very well, but it is the angle of the shot...

[Edit]

[hughdogz]

Well, since I'm stalled on my IC install until next week, I thought I'd start the Aero ducting.

 

This is what I need to block off for better aerodynamics and directing the air into the intercooler and radiator area:

 

These are the patterns for the sides and the "tester" piece I had to sacrifice:

 

Folded:

 

All three pieces:

 

 

Driver side:

(that hole in the side piece is where I mount my horn bracket)

 

Passenger side:

 

It would be nice to roll some beads into the lower piece to stiffen it up a bit. I don't know who in town would have one, but I think that "ZX" or something would look cool here.

 

If anyone has any comments or suggestions (good or bad) PM me. Thanks!

 

[Edit: 8/10/2007]

 

Wowww.....now that is shiny...and it will never look this clean again, lol

 

 

 

I know, I know...why did I have to go and rice it all up with the decal right away...been holding on to that one for three years waiting for just the right place! zweet. If it actually stiffened the piece then it wouldn't be rice?

 

[Edit]

[hughdogz]

[Edit: 8/19/2007]

More progress on the IC tubes...

 

Finished welding and grinding the 45.

 

Here is where I want to place the BOV mounting flange.

 

Another shot:

 

where the BOV is going to live:

 

I had to grind away at the flange because it was already welded from a different install (directly on to the pipe...grrr). Then I used a tube similar to the big one to offset it from the intake tube:

 

I'm still learning how to weld...notice the big HAZ (head affected zone) on the flange...and yes it did warp a bit, but nothing a vise and rubber mallet can't fix:

 

Here I tacked the welded flange to the intake tube:

 

Welded and ground:

 

All in place:

 

Whoo hoo!

 

[Edit]

 

[Edit 9/9/2007:

 

Well, this has turned out to be one of the most difficult and challenging projects to date. I really respect the skills a lot of the members have compared to me. Definately a learning experience!!

 

I'm finally nearing completion, at least I have the IC tubes pretty much finished now. Getting the correct clamps and silicone parts has been a nightmare, but I should have them by the end of the week (dammit, why do I keep saying that?!).

 

They're still not painted, but you can see how they setup is here:

 

Yep, I had to resort to JB weld. The small tube was so thin, I'd blow right through...it took me forever to get it so it wouldn't leak. After it's painted, no one will know except you guys on Hybridz. Also, johnc and Olderthanme were right, that Aluminized stuff is NAAAAAAASTY! Make sure you get it off the inside of the pieces as well. (I still have a sore throat from yesterday when I accidentally breathed fumes once)

 

Here they are ready for paint:

 

Another one:

My welds weren't pretty, so I ground them down. I hope the wrinkle paint will hide my mistakes.

 

Primered:

 

I picked the wrong day to be painting. Even though it is warm, it is really windy too...grr!! I hope the wrinkle paint job turns out looking halfway decent, but it looks like I didn't get good even coats. Some spots are smooth, while others are like volcanoes. I don't know if I'll be able to touch it up or not. I have to wait another hour before they're fully cured.

[hughdogz]

I finally decided to dead-head my fuel rail. The fuel line used to run across the front of the valve cover. I thought it would clean up the apprearance especially with the IC pipe running below it now.

 

Eventually, I'll cut the fuel inlet line below the firewall, and run AN line alongside the return up to the AFPR. This was easier for now.

 

$5.00 cap:

 

I used a 5/16" compression fitting to 1/4" NPT. Then 1/4" NPT to -6AN. I really should hide those ugly brass fittings...

 

Oh yeah, I like the looks of the 40 micron Russel filter better than the space-aged barbed-style K&N that I had on before!

[hughdogz]

 

Well I finally finished up the install!! Now all I have left to do is continue tweaking the preload setting on the HKS re-circulating valve (BOV).

 

I had to add extra plumbing and take advantage of the Weber TB so I could retain all the stock ancilliary crapola. The OEM turbo intake manifold will go away eventually, so please don't pay any too much attention to it. (and thanks jgkurz for the tip on modifying the Weber, and zcarnut for the linkage components)

 

It really pulls hard now, even at 7 psi. I can't seem to get it to boost much higher yet. I think I hear the valve open to recirculate, then close back up under high boost load. Even now it is a total beast compared to stock!!

 

Anyway, here are some garage pics:

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for looking!

 

Later, -Hugh

[hughdogz]

Well, it has been awhile since I updated my project page...

 

On a tip from rontyler, I found that I could use my Millermatic 135 MIG welder to weld Aluminum without having to buy a spool gun (that costs more than the welder itself?!). Just buy another "trigger wand" and shorten it, and buy a tank of 100% Argon and of course some aluminum wire. Easy, right?!

 

Well, I first shaved off all the bosses from the top and sides using a sawzall and non-ferrous grinder bits. Next, I'm planning to drill and tap the bottom to re-locate all the vacuum fittings (thanks BRAAP for the tips!!).

 

I wish I had some before pics, but ummm...I was out of batteries...yeah that's it.

 

Let me tell you, it was scary for me at first. There were sparks appearing all over the work piece and the arc was making a really strange howling noise (like a jet engine or something)...after cranking up the juice to max and getting the feed rate and gas flow rate dialed in (above ~ 25 CFM caused an arc blow-out), it wasn't too bad except for all the oxides and slag to clean up. Tons of smoke would billow (sp?) out of my garage!! Luckily I had a huge fan to blow in fresh air.

 

Well, I didn't give up. I don't think it is quite up to hughdogz standards (joke), but close enough for now. I'm hoping to get it cermachrome coated...maybe it will hide some of the gouges, imperfections, etc.

 

Filling the tapped bosses that aren't vacuum ports (I'm starting easy):

 

Here is a close-up of all the oxides and slag I was talking about (first time filling a hole!):

 

Big holes to fill:

 

Another:

 

...and another:

 

This reamer came in handy to clean-up the holes so I can remove the threads and expose some clean surfaces:

 

This has to be one of my favorite / handy tools

 

Finished! (not quite as nice as I would like it to be, but at least I was able to do it myself with my own tools)

 

Another:

 

I'd better be a LOT more careful about keeping the grinder under control when I do my head porting. We'll see how that goes...lol

[hughdogz]

Well, I think I finally fixed my boost leak problem. I would get really good boost response (~12-15 psi spike) then it would fall off to 5psi and stay there until you get off the boost again.

 

The problem was because I had clocked the turbo slightly and the WG actuator rod was "cock-eyed" i.e. it wasn't pulling straight. So I figured that since the actuator is pulling with less force, it's allowing the puck to be blown open. So, I adjusted the bracket to the correct angle. Now I can hold 10psi boost (or whatever I set) "all day long".

 

I had already modded the bracket mounting holes into slots so I can clock it, but that didn't solve the whole angle problem. Also, the actuator rod is threaded now so I can adjust the preload on the wastegate.

 

While I was at it, I also fixed my e-brake. Damn thing broke off. Those poor spot welds finally decided to give out, so I drilled them out and replaced them with four bolts. Fastening the nuts inside the tranny tunnel wasn't fun since there was a big heat shield for the cat in the way. Vice grip and welding magnets came in handy to hold the bolt while I crawled under the car to fasten the nuts...and I managed to shear 2 / 3 heat shield bolts in the process Oh well, at least the e-brake will never come off in my hand again!!

[hughdogz]

I started designing the power supply for the EMS. It is 8x6x2.5 inches (210x150x63 mm) so I hope it's not too big for the 280ZX passenger side kick panel. I'll have to take some rough measurements before I start cutting and bending tomorrow.

[hughdogz]

Since I'm waiting more wiring supplies, I thought I'd go back to polishing the intake again. You can see that the filler aluminum is a lot shinier than the original alloy...I know, I know, I'm polishing the wrong side and this isn't going t make my Z go any faster.

 

It doesn't look bad from two feet away, but the close-ups and reflections makes it look kinda crappy. Oh well...maybe one more time with the 1200 wet sanding and I can get the remaining scratches to come out!

[hughdogz]

 

 

I haven't found a good plug yet for the Weber TB, so I hope old "Honest Abe" from 1964 doesn't mind holding back ~12 pounds of boost!!

 

Check it out...I also relocated my heater hose so I can attach a coil mount bracket. (the stock one runs across the top of the oil filter)

 

 

I can't wait to get rid of this TPS ever since I lost the cover. Doh!

[hughdogz]

I've been working on creating the sub-harnesses for the Wolf and I want to see if I can get the hardware installed in the next two weeks...we'll see about that.

 

Here is the "Ron Tyler style" power supply panel:

 

 

A little closer:

 

 

Outside:

 

New fuel rail and injector harness:

 

Coil harness:

 

Here is most of the system:

 

I also have an electronic boost controller (not shown). The next few weeks will be REALLY challenging, so I hope I don't get stuck or discouraged (or worse yet, blow something up).

 

Later, -Hugh

[hughdogz]

Finally got the coil bracket installed. Sorry for the poor photo quality (again).

 

 

^^ Notice I had to cut a rectagular hole in the bracket to retain the CHTS.

 

I'm also going to have to relocate the knock sensor since it interferes with coil #4 as well as the bracket. Maybe lower down the block??

 

-hughdogz

[hughdogz]

I'm still not finished with the easy part of the install, but I've made some

progress. I want to be sure everything is hooked up correctly before I start securing all the wiring, so a lot of it is still loose or not connected yet. I also finished modifying the trigger optical wheel in the distributor and connecting it.

 

I haven't removed the stock FI harness, coil and igniter yet, but I installed a new fuel rail, harness and injectors:

It looks like it has a Mohawk now!

 

Other side:

 

CHTS:

 

Electronic Boost Controller:

 

Power breaker and ground block:

 

What a mess!! I can tuck the wiring up out of the way later...I'm not sure I'd do it this way again.

 

Where the Wolf connects behind the glovebox (another mess, I could have done better with a lot less connectors, LOL!:

 

 

The Wolf fits in the glovebox nicely:

 

 

Sensor and controller wiring for the driver side. I still haven't figured out how to wire up the tach and adapter yet. I'll have plenty of room to mount another computer once the stock ECU is out of the way :

I may have to rethink the way I did this...D'oh! It's always something...

 

I still have a long way to go. Of course I could have done a lot better job knowing what I know now...but as long as it works and it's safe, then I'm happy.

 

If anyone sees anything unsafe, please PM me and let me know...

Thanks for looking!

[hughdogz]

I finally got around to making an Intake Air Temp sensor bung and idle regulator bracket.

Air temp sensor is a Bosch unit that has an o-ring seal. If I keep it away from the manifolds, it will be less likely to get heat soak.

 

The IAT will mount on the underside of the tube after the intercooler exit.

(I know...no one likes my welding.. )

 

Inside:

 

The Idle air mounts to the block where the A/C used to be:

As you can see, it is plugged for now but will be replaced with a filter...I still have my doubts if this one will work or not. [Edit: I found out a filter will not work...it needs to remain a closed system (thanks Ron!)}

 

Maxima 3-wire TPS painted and new mounting holes:

 

Wrinkle painted the trigger cover (formerly known as a distributor cap ):

 

I extended the intake pipe since I removed the airflow meter. I'll take more pics later...

[hughdogz]

I think I have the idle air figured out now.

 

Notice that I flipped the idle regulator 180 degrees. I think it fits much better now. You can see wires for the TPS, trigger, idle air and IAT sensors coming out of the harness are wrapped with friction tape. Also a better pic of the modified distributor cap:

 

 

The hose feeds into a brass 90 degree fitting that I made another bung for. It is on the side of my intake charge pipe. If I had my wits about me when I made my IAT bung, I would have incorperated a 1/4" NPT tapped hole so it would all be hidden! Oh well, live and learn...but hey, no more Airflow meter!!

 

 

Okay, back to work...I'm almost ready to see if the "green light" will come on.

[hughdogz]

Well I finally got the Wolf to power on!!

 

I still have some minor leaking issues on the fuel rail to deal with (not around the injectors, but the fittings). It still just barely leaks at the threads of a 3/8" NPT fitting. Maybe it is just residue...I'll check again tomorrow. So far I've spent two days trying to get the rail to stop leaking. I've even gone as far as trimming the ends so I don't run out of threads on the fitting. I might have to try a new fitting since I threaded the fitting in so far that it started cutting a new thread. Before I trimmed the ends the sucker was dribbling like it had an STD. The reason why is that it was originally set up for brass barbed fittings and not NPT => AN.

 

Also, for some reason the Com1 port on my laptop from work isn't functioning. I have a USB->Com port adapter but it doesn't work either. I'll have to go to Fry's tomorrow and see if I can get a hold of one that will. Until I can figure out the communication issue, I can't sequence the trigger / spark yet or see if sensors are functioning properly.

 

If I have to, I'll get a new 14mm o-ring rail and bigger injectors. I have my eyes on some from racetronix . I would like to get some like these 65lb/hr (MSD / Holley) - Low-Z FM or even bigger. But before I do that I need to figure out how big I can go without running into too rich of an AFR at idle. I read that after I buy them, I can have them sent to Motor Man to get import pintle caps installed so they'll fit my N42 intake. I'll probably just give Motor Man a call to see how his prices for reconditioned units compare to the racetronix new ones.

 

Sorry for my rambling...after breathing gas fumes all day and running into more roadblocks that I made for myself, I needed somewhere to vent!!

 

I hope I don't still smell like gas when I go to work tommorrow.

 

Laterz, -Hugh

[hughdogz]

We have COMMUNICATION!!

 

I borrowed a different laptop from the graphics lab at work and sure enough, COM1 worked and so did COM4 with the adapter.

 

My engine temp, and air temp both seem to be registering...just a bit high at 20 and 22 Celsius respectively (68 & 72 F) when it is really in the 50's. The TPS % does move when I go through the range, but 0-20% is all I get even after a little tweaking. So far, so good I guess.

 

Also, I got the fuel rail to completely stop leaking too! But when I went to put the EV1 connector(s) on, it wedged in between the rail and the injector causing the o-ring to lose it's seal. All I have to do is notch out the rail a little, install new o-rings and I think I'm good for fuel.

 

Man 'o Man...I'm so relieved and happy now. I was beginning to think that I wouldn't make it this far. Who knows, maybe I'll have it running again soon and the tuning fun can begin!

[hughdogz]

Hey Guys, I'm getting so close to having the Wolf run the engine.

 

Today, I was able to verify the ignition timing. CAS sensor hookup caused a little snag, but it was figured out over the weekend (thanks to Ron's help).

 

At first, I couldn't get the timing light to flash using the Magnecor wires. Bo (KTM) reminded me that those are really well shielded...so I used a Taylor wire just for timing purposes ;o)

 

I got to the point of firing the injectors, but I noticed the Wolf telling me that the battery started getting real low (10.3 Volts) so I thought I'd better trickle charge it overnight before I continued.

 

I need to check to see if the Wolf is properly set for the low impedence RX7 injectors since it didn't seem as though they were operating. Once I solve this last issue, it should fire right up!

 

Still haven't figured out the Tach & adapter yet. I'll wait until I know it runs, then start removing the stock ECU and FI harness. Then I should be able to find the factory tack wire easily. Installing an LMA-3 datalogger in the ECU spot will hopefully work well.

 

Woo hoo! I can't wait to hear my baby purr again and start tuning.

[hughdogz]

Woot Woot! I got the Wolf 3D running this week (still have to tune).

 

Today I got my hybrid turbo delivered.

 

I had Ken Peak at Phoenix Turbos custom build it for me. It is a T3/T04E, 50 trim compressor wheel in a .60 A/R housing. It has a .63 A/R stage III turbine wheel that has the .63 A/R housing HPC ceramic coated!!

 

I got it with a (late) Ford 5-bolt housing so I can use the "Ultimate Internal Wastegate" I got from ATP turbos.

 

The compressor housing seems HUGE compared to stock. I hope I don't need to run a spacer in order for it to clear the intake / exhaust manifolds and my IC piping can be manipulated to fit.

 

SHINEY HPC ceramic coating on the turbine housing:

 

Notice the "Bullet" low-drag nut to enhance airflow:

 

I may need to upgrade to braided AN oil feed lines:

 

Here is the "Ultimate Internal Wastegate". I didn't want the hassle of modding the stock turbo exhaust manifold for an external wastegate just yet. A divorced external wastegate downpipe like jgkurz made seemed like a huge challenge as well. I hope I don't get much boost creep with this unit. It looks like it should flow really well!

 

S130's don't have much room for a DP or external wastegate compared to the S30 turbo'd. So, this gave me good flow and already has a 3" flange for easy disconnection from the downpipe.

 

Another shot:

 

Stacked!

 

LOW restriction! (hopefully)

 

 

Time to order up the 3 inch stainless mandrel bends for the exhaust fab...I wonder what the best alloy is to use?