RPMS Posted April 3, 2001 Author Share Posted April 3, 2001 Dave, I only pulled the bearing caps, leaving the pistons as-is. I think the problem was that I mashed the big ends of the con rods against the crank when I was torquing the bolts down. This wedged the rods against the crank and made it difficult to turn. When I loosened the bolts and moved the con rod ends closer to the middle of the journal, it freed them up. Yesterday I pre-lubed the engine, put on the distributor, and put power to it. About the third crank, a big gout of flame shot out the exhaust pipe with a loud *BANG!* and I realized that that was -one- exhaust pulse! I shut things down before the engine actually started, for fear of frying my ears. I'm picking up a muffler today on the way home from work. Well, now I know that at least ONE cylinder fires! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted April 4, 2001 Share Posted April 4, 2001 Check Your timeing.You shouldn't get a big BANG with a flame.My brother(Dave) is off line.He canceled His online service and has to get a new service.He wasn't happy with what He was paying and the service He was receiving. [This message has been edited by RON JONES (edited April 04, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted April 5, 2001 Author Share Posted April 5, 2001 Ron Jones Says: "Check Your timeing.You shouldn't get a big BANG with a flame" No BANG and flame?? Damn, I was getting all excited... So here's a question for you (or anyone else who knows). Will you please fill in the following blank, just so I can be sure I'm not doing something stupid? "Starting with the electrical (Tach/batt) connector and going counterclockwise, the first plug wire encountered goes to cylinder #_____" This trivial bit of information isn't in ANY of my rebuild books. Must just be one bit of common knowledge I'm not yet privvy to. If all my plug wires are going to the wrong plugs, that might be a wee problem, no? Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 5, 2001 Share Posted April 5, 2001 It won't matter where on the distributor cap you start at as long as the rotor is pointed toward the wire that has the piston at TDC on the compression (both valves are closed) stroke. If it is at TDC on the exhaust stroke, this may give a large pop out the carb or exhaust. Then just follow through on the firing order. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 5, 2001 Share Posted April 5, 2001 Like Terry said.. Make sure the rotor pointing to number 1 (starting of the firing order) which is on the drivers side front on a SBC. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted April 8, 2001 Author Share Posted April 8, 2001 Okay! So why didn't any of my big fancy books TELL me that the cylinder numbers are embossed on the plug wire retaining ring?!? Once I got the wires correct (and thank you for your help!) the thing actually ran, although accompanied by some amount of oil smoke (I'm busy fooling myself into thinking it's some stuck rings or leaky valve guide seals at the moment...). The son of a gun actually idled smoothly! What are the odds? Anyway, I guess this puts an end to this particular thread. It's obvious that I've got other problems to worry about now. Thanks for all your help! Scott Ferguson 1974 260Z - Feeling minor-league victorious right now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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