Guest chevsun Posted April 1, 2001 Share Posted April 1, 2001 I have have heard very little about 377 motors and I am getting ready to build another motor for my 240 8 Z. I have a 350 steel crank and rods with 2 blocks, 350 and 400 they both need to go to the machine shop. I have an aluminum edelbrock top end with the 64cc heads and holly 780. I am looking at running a roller cam also. Before I order the pistons does anyone have any ideas on the 377 or should I just build a 355. Thanks for any output. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2001 Share Posted April 1, 2001 Yeah, I'm quite interested to see how that 377 works out. On paper it looks super and yeah it seems the 383 is pretty common these days (not that theres anything wrong with it, it puts out great power and is cheap to build.) Good luck with it, keep us posted! Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 1, 2001 Share Posted April 1, 2001 Acouple of years ago Hot Rod had an article out on the 350 chevy should have built when it decided to up the cubic inch from 327 to 350.Using a 400 block and a 327 crank; the idea is better rod/stroke ratio and less valve shrouding. 400 ft/lbs @2000-4500 rpm and 400hp and not as expensive as you might think I think $3000 with air flow research alumium heads. I wonder what the vortec heads would do on this puppy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted April 2, 2001 Share Posted April 2, 2001 Sounds like an interesting motor to me. If I'd known about it I'd have been tempted to be honest but 400 blocks are a bit hard to find. I did once talk to a guy who destroked a 351W Ford. He said it revved faster than any motor he'd ever had and really seemed to like it. I don't recall the size but if your motor acts liek that it'll be perfect for the Z. Good luck, and please let us know how it works out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted April 2, 2001 Share Posted April 2, 2001 Since you have the 400 block already, assuming it's good (might want to have it sonic checked first) build a 377!!! That will be some motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chevsun Posted April 2, 2001 Share Posted April 2, 2001 sorry guys one of these days I will learn to do a search before posting. I think I'm going to go with a 377 though. Just to be different even though it has cost me a lot of money over the years it has never failed to create interest in my projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RON JONES Posted April 2, 2001 Share Posted April 2, 2001 If I had all the same parts that You have,I'd be be building a 377 as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 3, 2001 Share Posted April 3, 2001 The 400 block - 327 crank "350" has been discussed. There's a site somewhere with a scanned article out of a magazine where it was tested and had a nice broad torque curve. Here's the thread. http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000199.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest chevsun Posted April 7, 2001 Share Posted April 7, 2001 I recieved the hot rod book on building big chevy engines from barnes & noble last night and hoped to find some good info on building a 377 but the motor they built was a 600hp beast with high compression. Not really what I was looking for. Also the articles on all the engines were just excerpts from hot rod articles and not in depth enough to help much. Not worth the money in my opinion. On another note I went to chevytalk.com and have found several people running 377's and hope to get some good info from them. After doing a search of just 377 I have found that there general consensus is to not be afraid of these motors or the heat. Just build the motor and cooling system right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted April 7, 2001 Share Posted April 7, 2001 I have the book & like the book because of its ideas & it gives dyno runs after the build. Remember/when building any engine...as w/most of us-the "SBC" there are do's & dont's but the preparation is going to be mostly the same when it comes to tolerances. The two issues I like about the articles are it stated you dont have to settle w/bearing spacers as you can buy a Bow Tie block & use a crank w/smaller journals & it also had a tip on bearings I wasnt privy to earlier/that is when ordering Clevite 77 bearings you can order them w/an "X" suffix which designates your bearings as "High Revving" rod/main bearings...something that might ensure the life of your engine when going to 6500/7000rpm's (That alone is worth the price of the book). I too dont like it when someone does an excellant build but leaves a step or two out; kind of leaves you "just out-there" somewhere wondering what to do next. Remember-the prep work is basically going to be the same regardless of which build you are going with-the degree of tediousness (if that is even a word) depends on how small you prefer your tolerances. The pro builder machine shop knows that the average hobby builder doesnt have the gumption/tools to build a stroker by themselves...so there's usually not any reason to include every step in an article. If you are above the average builder & want exact details on building a SBC w/every step outlined; I found a SBC book that did just that, in fact-THEY BRAG IN THE INTRODUCTION that they "DID NOT" leave out any step & because it is so complete that anyone; even someone w/out prior eng.knowledge can use their guide & build a durable SBC. The name of it is: "How to Build the SBC" by SADesign by Larry Atherton & Larry Schreib...they refer to it as a "Workbench Book". Reference books are like Service Manuals...you should never limit yourself to just one manual/likewise-you should never limit yourself to just one book on the prefer'd build you like. I probably have @ 15 reference books on the SBC; I bought each one of them because they had an issue or article that separated them from each other with everything else being the same. I've even purchased a SBC book because it had "ONE" formula in it that I previously had not seen in any other books; now I have it as a reference when I need it! Once you build a collection of your preferences you can make an educated "guess" of what you want.....there are still a few books on the SBC I'ld like to get/some other day maybe; but you get the idea. Read about want you want; ask questions about what you want; read some more/ask some more questions & then make a decision & enjoy your ride. I'm probably going to go w/the 377 also; or should I do a TPI/LT1...or go w/a V6 turbo? Well I'm still thinking about it but I'll probably go the 377 route because of the high rev's. If you wanted a detuned version of the engine in the article-what about detuing it is troubling you? Kevin, (Yes,Still an Inliner) [This message has been edited by Kevin Shasteen (edited April 06, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 7, 2001 Share Posted April 7, 2001 Buying a bowtie block is like to the tune of 1600-1700 bucks (at least thats what I noted at Scoggins Dickey Performance Center for 2 and 4 bolt main blocks) for a bare block. Add your scat crank, good rods, forged pistons, and a good valve train with aluminum heads, manifold, big holley, additional machine work and balance and your getting pretty expensive for that 377. One could build a equally bad 355 for probably less dough. Just a opinion from a cheapskate . Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted April 8, 2001 Share Posted April 8, 2001 I have no problem being cheap...however; if someone wants a 377/the purpose for a 377 is its high revability in to the 7500rpm range and doing in consistantly & multiple times w/out failure (durability). That's a lot of stress on an engine...definately not for the faint of heart nor the empty wallet/bank accounted individual! If I was going to build a 377 I'ld go w/the Bowtie block-yea its more expensive but also tried/trued for performance! Shoot; if we're dreaming -moneywise- I'ld buy a Bowtie Alluminum block just to play with...I mean-since we're dreaming and all. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Z Man377 Posted April 8, 2001 Share Posted April 8, 2001 Go with the 377. I had a overheating problem at first. But, The taurus 2 speed fan fixed that. Other than that, Its been great. 6.97 @ 100mph in the 1/8th. Soon to be powered by BUICK Turbo V6!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted April 8, 2001 Share Posted April 8, 2001 Z man377 - glad you got that overheating problem fixed - that's one nice car you have there! I loved the videos on your site. Not that I have anything against the Turbo Buick V6 ( I think it makes a great swap ), just wondering why you're going that way. BTW, what fan did you have one before the Taurus 2spd fan? Sounds like a great back to back test. Wasn't it a Black Magic fan? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Z Man377 Posted April 9, 2001 Share Posted April 9, 2001 Blackmagic M150,A fan for a stock car. To me it seemed that the taurus fan pulled more air on low speed. Also the shroud on the taurus covered about 4 or 5 inches more area. Which probably helped the most. Anyone wanting some pics just email Me At zman@neto.com I took several pics. Zya Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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