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ZR8ED VG30ET MS&S updates


ZR8ED

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Ok its been awhile, and my previous posts are buried, so I thought I would quickly start a new one that I can update my progress and ask new questions.

 

I've been extremely busy, as I am getting married in 9 days, and I am in the middle of a model year change over (I'm a paint supplier tech support in a large OEM paint shop), and we are preparing to launch a new vehicle line as well. So its crazy busy. Its also thanksgiving this weekend and the overseas inlaws are staying with me. Whew!

 

Anyways.

 

The Megasquirt is now up and running, and the car can at least drive up and down the street. Not much more than that. I am looking for some advice in using the autotune feature.. at least to get the car driveable but most importantly SAFE. I have not seen much info about maps/settings for the vg30ET.

 

For now progress will stop for a couple of weeks until I have more time. I'm pretty desperate to get the car driveable so I can go for a few more drives before the snow flies. I'd like to be in decent shape so I can hit the road running this coming spring.

 

Thanks to all! who have helped me get this far.

 

Scott.

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You have a wideband, right? Using a base MS tune, it should be pretty rich, and you should be safe, but using a ton of fuel.

 

Also, if you are just using light throttle and little or no boost, you don't have much to worry about.

 

Are you talking about the auto mixture control? You also need to have a wideband for that. I could have sworn there was a different autotune feature as well, but i just looked over my megatune software and cannot find it. I haven't touched MS or even a car in quite a while, though, so sorry.

 

PS - your wife-to-be is from overseas, correct? So is mine. Your 240z has a vg30et in it, so does mine.... this is all quite odd...

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Yep Definately have the wideband. I watch it like a hawk these days. I removed the narrow band o2 as it ran the modified stock ecu. Now the wideband will send a signal to the MS and my gauge mounted on the steering column.

 

Once the details are cleaned up (wires etc) I don't have too much direction on how I go about fine tuning. I understand that I need to go the dyno, but that is mostly for WOT right? Or is it faster to do driveability tuning on the dyno as well?...sure less traffic to worry about! hehe

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autotune works off your ego settings. If running msnse, go to basic setting->exhuast gas settings and choose wideband. I'm assuming you have setup your wideband in the configurator.

 

Then set your ego switch point voltage to whatever is stoich voltage out of your wideband.

 

For ignition events i use 16 ignition events per step... but you may want to play with that.

 

for controller step size i have used 5% in the past, and i got some surging on the freeway at partial throttle, backing it off to 3% worked well, and now i run 2% since my map has become better.

 

controller authority: i wouldn't use more than 10%, but with a wideband i wouldn't be too afraid to use more. (maybe up to 15%)

 

Then use the active above settings to set when you want MS to go into closed loop mode.

 

Ok so you probably knew all that... but theres more.

 

Go to lamda AFR settings, under the "more settings" window. Here you can choose to change your step size % after a certain kpa.

 

You can also set up your wideband AFR tables.

 

Once you setup your afr tables, go to the tuning window, click on autotune and go for a drive. Don't forget to hit alt+b when your done to burn the new table to the ecu.

 

things to keep in mind: the authority*gain is what determines how big the VE table step is during autotune, and gain is .5, so 10%*.5 = 5% ve table jump. The smaller the number, the more stable the jumps will be, but you should experiment with that as well.

 

hope that helps!

-oliver

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok small updates.

 

Got married 13 days ago.

All went extremely well. Everyone is happy.

 

My AEM wideband that I had installed 2 summers ago, finally gave up and started giving weird readings.. ie 17:1 at cold idle etc...

 

I guess since I have had it in the car, I have never had the car in a final state of tune. Before MS, it was either rich at idle and great at WOT, or lean at idle, and lean at WOT. OR kinda sorta middle of the road with the boost turned to stock.

 

So just a caution if you have been doing a lot of tuning, watch out for your wideband to need replacing.

 

I have a new one in and all is well again.

 

The tuning has been going well, but there have been plenty of rain delays lately. Apparently even my 315's struggle for grip when its wet out.. hehehe JK.

I'll be giving some final reports on the outcome of this swap very soon. I need to get some driving under my belt before the snow flies, so I can determine a starting point and identify any problem issues for next season. There is just not enough time for more tuning, as the weather here has been changing very fast this last week. The first sprinkle of salt on the roads will signal the end of my season pretty soon.

 

Pics will follow soon as well.

Scott.

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Well another little update today.

 

I guess all this torque is loosening things up a bit. Found two rear strut gland nuts loose, exhaust hanger (rubber) broke and fell off letting the exhaust bang on the body of the car, and something else is loose, but could not find it so far. Its a rattle kind of banging when hitting a bump. It does it whether coasting or under load.

 

ehhh. MS is working fine.. Back to looking at the mechanicals of the suspension. This is getting old fast. I just want to drive it.

 

Scott.

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Update again.

 

Clunking/bang was a broken sway bar body mount! Its nice and quiet again.

 

Took the car for the longest trip to date with the MS. 100km, highway speed, stop and go traffic through Toronto, and some surface streets. Hehehe. Got some waves and thumbs up, and had a BMW owner follow me into a parking lot to ask me about the Z!

 

I was a bit worse for the wear after the trip, because 12 lanes of stop and go traffic on a maiden voyage is not the most calming trip. The worry was for nothing though, as the car performed very well.

 

I've already started my next todo list. Some pics are next on the list, hopefully tonight. I am having an insulated steel garage door installed today, so I hope it goes well, so I can get the Z back in there and at least start some clean up work.

 

Man I'm busy these days.....

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This post is useless without pics!

Ok here I what I've got so far.

DSC06386.jpg

Left overs from the stockish z31 harness pulled from my 280Z. I had originally had most of the stock z31 harness working in my Z (except for obvious stuff)

 

DSC06388.jpg

Engine bay as it stands today. More cleanup required, but more or less finished.

DSC06389.jpg

Ecu installed in the car. The relay board is forward and above of the stock 280 fuse panel down in the passenger foot well.

 

Scott.

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Small update.

 

I've taken the car out a few more times. It is running well. With the colder temps now, I find if I roll hard on 3rd, those 315's can't hold it very well. Not such a bad problem to have I suppose.

 

I have noticed one thing that is concerning me slightly. One of my relays has buzzed when I have started the car. Once the car starts and idles, it continues to buzz. I have checked the relays, and If I shut the car down and restart, it will still buzz. If I pull the relays (I can't seem to recall which one as I type this, but I think it is my fuel pump relay) If I pull the relay out and put it back in and restart the car, it will stop buzzing most of the time. I have had to pull and reinstall the relay a couple of times to get it to reset. The car runs fine while the relay buzzes.

 

First I need to confirm which relay it is. Darn I wish I had written it down.

 

Scott.

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Guest Neil86T

That looks great! Sometime in the future I would like to do a S30/VG30et. I have a motor, trans and LSD from my donor car. I just need a S30 :) What tranny are you using?

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