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HybridZ

BLOZ UP

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Everything posted by BLOZ UP

  1. Went to an autocross. Put back in the stock seat (for the 11th time), because the other ones I have just aren't working out for various reasons. Otherwise, - New brake proportioning valve. Bled brakes like crazy but there's still a lot of slack/dead travel before they kick in. The 1" master takes quite some effort, even with the booster to lock them up. Will need to double-check the pushrod. - Electric power steering! It's amazing! - Horn clock ring connection thing started shorting out and honking the horn at certain steering angles (sigh...) - Fuel pressure dropping under boost (it's a Bosch 044, shouldn't do that)
  2. After installing the steering wheel it works great (in my garage, anyway haven't been able to drive it due to brake issues). I still have the tach and ign wires both connected to an ignition source. I'm guessing it needed the steering wheel to correctly sense torque, as you'll generate much smoother/consistent torque with the wheel over trying to crank the hub like I was. There's an autox this weekend that I think the car is ready for so ill report back.
  3. I wired it up temporarily to test. Not sure why there's both an IGN and "Engine RPM" (tach) hookup. I tried without the tach wire, and it seemed to cut in-and-out of assist. Put both to a spare IGN wire and it works much better. Did seem a bit finicky rotating the hub with my hand, but I'll have to put a real steering wheel on it to be sure.
  4. Clearance on the 280Z seems worse, like it's clocked differently. I tried sitting in it and hitting the clutch though and in my brief test it wasn't an issue. Just have to wire it up now. I don't have the GPS sensor, but I do have a Speedhut GPS tach. It currently has an analog 0-5v speed output I had Speedhut modify for me, that I'm not using. I wonder if they can modify it to be a digital/tick or whatever the EPS needs. In any case wiring looks simple, but I'm going to clean up some crap from my EMS I left in here for the past 10 years while-I'm-at-it.
  5. Great info guys thanks. I'm getting in contact with a upholstery shop that might be able to add some holes, as well as put on some real leather while they are at it. Also I am looking to get the Kameari headrest as well, and a shoulder strap holder.
  6. I bought the kit and will be installing it shortly along with a new brake MC. I have a VG30 and plenty of clearance (I think), so should be "easy".
  7. I had a Torino II in this car previously, but it was a tad too large width wise and was destroying my door panel. It also was ugly. With that seat I ran a 4 point, with the shoulder straps going to the stock shoulder strap location. I'll have to see if I can disassemble the belt to pass the shoulder strap through the left-hand part of the seat, so that it's not reduced to a lap-belt. I'm no automotive engineer but thought the whole point of all seat belts, 1-5 point, are to hold you in a fixed position (with some allowable stretch of the fabric). Manufacturers just compromised safety for convenience by staying at the 3 point. If we're counting on a 3-point belt to help save me when the car rolls over I think there are other issues that need addressing rather than the belt. In any case I'd rather not have to deal with a non-OE belt system. I also don't want is a roll cage, because that basically guarantees a severe head injury unless I have a 4/5 point harness on, tight, with a helmet on.
  8. So I got this knock-off of a reproduction Kameari seat. The stock seat belts feel totally inadequate as they hang across the bolsters of the seat, inches in front of my waist. I'm aware that the only DOT approved solution is the stock seat with the stock belt. I wanted something that works for autocross so I'm not driving from the passenger side every time I turn left. I rarely drive on the street (mainly just to car meets). Being a California car very few more modern seats fit without modifying the cat hump. So, what are my options here? It looks like I'm going to need a 4/5 point with a harness bar (and headrest) behind me, and to slot the bottom/sides of the seat?
  9. Got a repro Datsun Competition Seat off eBay for $500. Judging from photos of other repros, the vent holes on the back are a, uh, factory error. Perhaps why this one was so cheap. Luckily no one will really see it. Love it. I fit snug in it, but not too much so. My stock seat was really worn out so it feels much more comfortable. And the fake leather is not bad. I was going to get it redone in real leather but might push that back unless I need belt holes. It's resting on stock 280Z rails. Seat of it at about the same height as the stock seat, so not sure it will help the limited helmet room. I'm also going to have to fabricate an adapter for the stock rails to get them on the narrower seat base (roughly 13" rail spacing on the stock seat vs 10" on this). But, no door rubbing or hard-to-reach seat belts. Speaking of seat belts the stock one seems super unsafe in this. Not sure what I'll do about that. And I need a head rest. Don't feel like breaking my neck if someone rear ends me at anything over 5 mph. From other threads about this seat I can get a legit Kameari one.
  10. Got one off eBay for $500. Judging from photos of other repros, the vent holes on the back are a, uh, factory error. Perhaps why this one was so cheap. Luckily no one will really see it. Love it. I fit snug in it, but not too much so. My stock seat was really worn out so it feels much more comfortable. And the fake leather is not bad. I was going to get it redone in real leather but might push that back unless I need belt holes. It's resting on stock 280Z rails. Seat of it at about the same height as the stock seat, so not sure it will help the limited helmet room. I'm also going to have to fabricate an adapter for the stock rails to get them on the narrower seat base (roughly 13" rail spacing on the stock seat vs 10" on this). But, no door rubbing or hard-to-reach seat belts. Speaking of seat belts the stock one seems super unsafe in this. Not sure what I'll do about that. And I need a head rest. Don't feel like breaking my neck if someone rear ends me at anything over 5 mph. From other threads about this seat I can get a legit Kameari one.
  11. Clean up some vacuum lines and tweaked the throttle stops. It no longer wants to die at idle (had some vacuum lines temporarily connected that were just bypassing the throttle plates). Got the stock boost gauge working. Drives much better though although it idles even higher now (I believe the throttle stops are too open). Had to order some vacuum caps to finish off the vacuum lines then it's time to cleanup some wiring and get the A/C working.
  12. Yeah. I'm waiting for the eBay ones again. No way I'm paying $1500 for fake leather replicas when I can get $300 fake leather replicas and have them redone for much cheaper. I've also see seats here: Sebring Car Seats - Sebring Seats But they haven't responded to my email.
  13. Got some Z31TT adapters and beefed up axles, as well as a Ron Tyler diff mount. That's it. Have a truck and trailer now so once my savings recovers I'll be looking for an LS2/3 and TR6060 I think.
  14. Well I cleaned up some wiring and vacuum lines and got the child seat adapter belt. Put about 20 miles on it. Drives pretty well! Without lugging the new rebuild I can still feel the potential at 25% throttle at 3k RPM. It does want to die after deceleration for a few seconds but I need to re-route some vacuum lines and double-check everything. However, it's likely after getting everything set and breaking it in we will sell it. It's the wife's and our priorities have changed over the past 5 years.
  15. See this thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/14482-87000-u0175-datsun-competition-seat/
  16. Haven't worked on it. Collecting dust and rust. That Louisiana humidity just allows for the entire car to be "soaked" when the temperature drops, despite being in a garage. Whenever the Z32 is "done" I'll try and tune the VG33 to 16psi or so then rip it out and sell it. Then clean it all up, and eventually an LS2.
  17. Hooked up many things. Electric fans and controller. Exhaust, wiring almost completely done (engine bay side, at least). Center console assembled. It runs and drives. Haven't driven it much, less than a mile total. Wideband is hooked up and car runs solid 14--14.7 at idle. Idle is still high but I've run out of adjustability from the IACV. Need to double check the vacuum lines. Still needs the passenger side floor cleaned up (ECU, fan controller mounted). Need to fix the A/C as it overpressurized and blew the safety pressure relief. There's a droplet of oil forming on the oil filter. Droplet of coolant on the rear of the engine somehow, but can't trace it. Nothing on the ground. Lifters are noisy af on startup after sitting for a while. But it goes away as the car warms up. Only took 5 years and one pandemic.
  18. Damn, missed it by one day. Moved to to Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Here it is at my first Cars & Coffee. I realized I am now in LA, with NJ plates, and TX stickers since I never removed the reg/insp. sticker when I moved to NJ. Car has been with me a while. And as much as I don't like the VG that's in it ... it's been running for like 7 years without ... too many issues. None serious.
  19. Yeah, but the steering wheel shakes quite severely at speed. Just really feel like the car is not where I want it. I love the body -- ain't selling it. But I hate the drivetrain and suspension. I also hate driving it in NJ traffic. In the truck everyone stays far away.
  20. Got the tires swapped on the new wheels. Drove it to work the other day. Ran fine, but my stupid oil filter adapter (JB) welds leak. After I finish the Z32 I think I'll pull the engine on this. But I also got a '85 Chevy truck that I'm liking a lot so I'm also fixing that one up a bit. See ya next year!
  21. Here for my yearly update. It starts, I have video of it. It also has no coolant, no exhaust the crank pulley isn't torqued down, there's no clutch pedal, coolant fan, or O2 sensors hooked up. But it runs! On 3 year old gas at that. Seemed to have a miss--but I'm going to have to hook everything up, drain and get fresh gas before firing it up again because I need to let it heat cycle to break in the next start. Hopefully no miss after that, if it really exists. See ya next year.
  22. Ha. Had a kid. It put things in perspective. Things are returning to the new normal now though, so if it weren't so cold out I'd get stuff done.
  23. Uh... haven't been here in a while. Got rid of the Sparco seat that didn't fit and the harness. Put stock one back in. Going to get a couple Corbeau Classic Buckets at some point. Got new wheels for it. Epsilon Mesh 3 piece. 16x7.5" all around, got for a good deal I think. Going to swap my 225/50s on to them, but need a trailer or truck to haul all 8 wheels to the shop to get them swapped. Glad I finally am getting rid of the XXRs. They are OK except for the weight, and I've heard of them (not necessarily this model but the dual bolt pattern ones) breaking during autocrosses. I've had them on the car for about 7 years now, put them on soon after getting the car, on a student's budget so it was long passed time. Anyway this is a long ass post about wheels so here's a photo: Thinking about redoing the centers in black. Or maybe red. But don't want a ketchup-mustard car. Probably black. And as much as I dislike chrome, it seems to work well for the barrels against the window trim. In other news I put a dent in one of the fenders after having to break into the garage . I put in a steel door though so at least that can't happen again. I'll go for a window next time.
  24. Yep. Still not done. Got a driveshaft that fits. Ran some wiring. Rewired some connectors. Put some intake piping on. Ran some vacuum line. Need lots more vacuum line.
  25. I replaced both of my flasher units with the superbrightled ones (which swap right in!) but I recall having issues with them still not flashing unless one on each side was incandescent.
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