Rocker arm stud question roller/non roller

[gretchen/jason]

So ive noticed that there are rocker arm studs for roller rockers . Are they made different then studs for stamped steel rocker arms .

I have a set of rocker arm studs that came with a set of stamed steel rocker arms and the roller rockers i have seem to fit just fine . So is there a difference .

 

Jason

[grumpyvette]

since roller cams generally use taller springs, greater lobe lift and faster accelleration rates and heavier spring pressures you generally CAN,t get away with pressed in studs, so youll be forced to convert to screw in rocker studs, stock are 3/8" aftermarket can be either 3/8" or 7/16" which tend to be stronger and deflect less, especially with a stud girdle, now you can run or make nearly anything function short term, but it takes a bit more thought and better parts once the rpms exceed about 6500rpm and lifts start to exceed .600 or so, BECAUSE the spring rates and stress levels necessary to make it function will be higher than whats required at lower stress levels, keep in mind stress is cumulative, just because it works the first or fiftyeith time does not mean it will continue to function without failing the next time out, building engines with both the correct clearances and a significant FUDGE FACTOR on the parts strength and correct LUBRACATION AND COOLING and UNDERSTANDING fatigue life is smart if you need to depend on it functioning LONG TERM

[gretchen/jason]

I guess i didnt state everything i should have in my first post i apoligize . Im using screw in rocker arm studs 3/8 on 3/8 . Im not using a roller cam just stock hydraulic lifters with a max lift of .490 . So im guesing maybe the studs are longer then what i have not sure i ordered some anyway now i just have to have the threads on the head redone . So ive been looking at stud girdles would that be a good investment my rpms wont ever go over 6 grand .

 

I went to a local hot rod shop and they told me that the screw in studs i have wont work for roller rockers even though my machine shop says not to worry , that is why i posted this question .

 

Jason

[grumpyvette]

in most cases the roller rockers that use a 3/8" stud are designed to work with almost any screw in stud, but be aware that the axle in the roller bearing in the rocker has a rounded lower and a flat upper surface, the flat upper surface matches the lock nuts that come with the rockers, you can,t use stock nuts and its possiable to assemble the rocker on the stud with the flat side down, in that case the adjustment nuts wount fit or work so be carefull about that

 

 

most rockers come with adjustment nuts like these. the outside dia matches the rockers upper slot width and the locking hex in the center is designed to jam against a flat top on a studs after the nuts adjusted the rocker top get the correct preload or lash distance, you need to back out the center lock hex set screw to almost the top of the threads in the nut before adjusting valves, to prevent the set screw from limiting adjustment

most use a 5/8" wrench and a 3/16" allen key

 

http://www.2quicknovas.com/happyvalves.html

 

http://www.iworkinmyunderwear.com/king_family/impala/engine_rebuild/4drss/adj-valves.html

[grumpyvette]

while were talking about the valve train heres some related info

 

1.6:1 ratio rocker install

 

 

IVE always prefered STEEL roller rockers over ALUMINUM for two reasons

first STEEL has a MUCH GREATER fatigue life under repeat stress than aluminum, and steel generally has far fewer clearance issures with other components, plus some STEEL roller rockers are REBUILDABLE

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D1302%2D16&autoview=sku

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN%2D11600%2D1&autoview=sku

 

in MOST cases you can install 1.6:1 roller rockers with MINOR machine work, (I have seen on rare occasions no machine work necessary)

but in any case its easily done,

 

the tool comes with instuctions

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

and before a dozen guys start telling you they installed them with zero problems on stock heads, keep in mind most guys don,t take the time to check ALL the clearances thru THE FULL rotation of the rockers arc. and it they don,t break or bind parts ,THEY assume its fine

but the truth is the pushrod should NEVER touch either end of the slot even lightly anywhere in the arc.

 

more info

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...ad.php?t=82474

 

btw the BEST aluminum rockers IVE ever used for GEN 1 SBC were ERSON BILLET ROLLER ROCKERS

PART # E928069 1.6:1 ratio for 3/8" studs

PART # E928072 1.6:1 ratio for 7/16" studs

 

 

 

http://www.erson-cams.com/pdf/Chevrolet.pdf

 

http://www.erson-cams.com/pdf/valvetrain.pdf

 

http://www.erson-cams.com/AskTechForm.aspx?brandId=7

 

 

BTW I was asked HOW you prevent getting metalic crap into the engine when useing the LOUIS TOOL to increase pushrod slot clearance

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRO%2D66485&N=700+115&autoview=sku

 

Ive done several without removing the heads, but as stated earlier I removed the intake durring the cam install process and thats when you do the checks and minor clearance work, I placed one of these (HIGH STRENGTH, HIGH HEAT RATED MAGNETS ,POSTED BELOW)under each pushrod hole/slot while doing the drill work and they catch 99% of the crud instantly, then you just remove the magnets with the crud attached, ...

BTW

I usually leave a couple in the lifter gallery to collect broken valve train components and metalic dust anyway, before re-installing the intake

 

high temp (300F)

 

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D66SH

 

HIGHER TEMP

(480F)

 

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SMCO%2D62

 

I buy 50-100 at a time theres LOTS of uses