John Scott Posted March 24, 2000 Share Posted March 24, 2000 I'm getting close on getting my WCT5. We're going to work out a trade for my 700R4. (He's tired of shifting. I can't wait!) Are you still giving a thumbs up to your Ford clutch master solution? I want to make this swap as painless as possible and it sounded like a good solution. Thanks, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 28, 2000 Share Posted March 28, 2000 John, Hey man, sorry I haven't written you back, but I took a couple days off from work and haven't gotten online. I was driving my Z around the other day and all of a sudden while stopping at a traffic light my brakes just went to nothing and as soon as I touched the brake pedal my engine started missing...so I knew that my power brake booster had took a dump on me. So I've been fighting with the idiots at the local autoparts stores, trying to get another one. It didn't come in when they said it would and then when it did come in, of course, it was the wrong one! So hopefully tomorrow, the right one will come in. But YEAH!!!, the clutch master and slave cylinder setup is working GREAT!!! "Knock on Wood!" I couldn't be more satisfied with it. I will get you the part numbers if you need them...I still have all the packaging that the stuff came in. But you shouldn't have any trouble finding it...just ask for a master cyl from a mid '80s Ford F-150 and get the hose from a Ford dealer for the same truck. The catalog that I was looking at said that the master cyl was from an '83-'90 Ford F-150, but according to the guy at the Ford dealership, the master cylinders were a little different on the later models. You should be able to look at it and tell...it looks just like the Tildon cyl, except it had the same hose hookup as the Camaro/Trans Am slave cyl...and the one that I got even had 7/8 stamped on the side of it. Now just for your information and so you won't be cursing me out, the hose that you get from the Ford dealership is plenty long enough, but not too long, and it's not very flexible...and I ran mine from the master cyl, then curved it up and over-right between the brake master cyl and power brake booser, then down between the metal brake lines and firewall and it hooked up fine. And by the way, you have to install the hose backwards...I mean, that when you buy the hose, it has an "idiot" sticker on it that says "This end connects to master cyl"...Well just take my word for it and be an idiot and hook the master cyl end to the slave cyl because it fits much better that way. Just remember that the hose is flexible, but not like a "rubber" hose, so it takes a little patients to bolt up the slave cyl and heat shield to the bell housing while the hose is connected. And yeah, if you have the stock heat shield that's used to bolt the slave cyl up, then you have to connect the hose first. If you aren't using the heat shield, then it should be real easy...but I would use the shield if you have it. And if you have help it will be easier still...For me it was a little hard getting the bolts in the heat shield started because I was doing it by myself and it was a pain to hold the slave cyl up there, trying to compress the slave cyl pushrod and the hose not being real flexible was making me wish that I had two more hands, but the whole job of bolting the master cyl, hose, and slave cyl up only took me about an hour. So don't read this and say "Oh !#@$", because there really wasn't much to it at all. But let me know if you need those part numbers...although if you don't have an AutoZone in your area, then the part numbers that I have may not do you any good, ya know? But I'll help any way I can...see ya... Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted March 29, 2000 Author Share Posted March 29, 2000 Thanks Lee, Go ahead and give me the part #s. We have autozones. ..And I'm way too familiar with the "F" word dealer! Since my Z was always clutchless I had to order a new pedal and clip. All the salvage yard ones had worn pins and pedals beyond use. New ones are surprisingly inexpensive! John [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 28, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 29, 2000 Share Posted March 29, 2000 John, Ok...here's the numbers for you. I looked on the packaging for the Master Cyl and it had cross-index numbers on it for other manufacturers, so I will give you those too, and then you should be able to find this thing anywhere. The one that I bought at AutoZone was by a company called BrakeWare, but I think that it's a division of Bendix because the part numbers are the same...here they are... ---Master Cylinder Part Numbers--- BrakeWare - 12117 Bendix - 12117 Wagner - F110710 Raybestos - CMA39580 ---Hydralic Hose Part Number--- Ford Motor Company - E3TZ7A512A Good luck putting the clutch pedal in!!! I'd rather take an A$$ woopin' than work under a dashboard, ya know? And, unfortunately I've been doing alot of work under there recently...hooking up my clutch master cylinder, brake master cylinder and booster, refabricating my throttle cable and gas pedal, running a wire to get my turn signals working, etc. There's no way to comfortably do anything while your twisted up like a pretzel, trying to get under there to bolt or hook something up...But if you need any help or other info then let me know...talk to you later... Oh, BTW...just in case anyone here would be interested in how I hooked up my throttle to my gas pedal after my cable broke, here's how I did it and I think that I will be leaving it like this instead of using a cable because the pedal feels much better. I took a leftover piece of automatic transmission tubing, (the metal lines that connect the transmission to the radiator/cooler) that was about 2 feet long. I drilled out the "ball" on the gas pedal, ran the metal tubing through the firewall and did a little estimating on the bends and length I needed. I bent the tubing, using a bender, and ended up with an S-shaped tube. So it comes through the firewall about 3-4", bends 90 degrees toward the front of the distributor about 2", then bends 90 degrees back toward the carburator linkage. After I got the tubing bent, I cut off the excess length but leaving just enough for a little adjustment if needed. Then, I flattend each end up the tube about 1 1/2" by laying the ends on a vise and hammering the tubing flat. The tubing will very easily and cleanly flatten out when hammered. I then drilled a hole in one of the flat ends to connect to the carburator linkage, connected that end to the carburator after putting it in the firewall hole, pulled the gas pedal up all the way and marked the other flattend end of the tubing where it would bolt to the pedal. Drilled that hole and bolted it up to the pedal using a lock-nut and a couple of plastic washers. So now it's a solid rod from the pedal to the carburator, which looks as good as a cable, feels better than a cable, won't break, and was easy as he!! to make in about 15-30 min. I painted it black, but I am going to try to find some aluminum tubing and make another one just like it, so I can polish it out...or maybe I'll just use the one I have and run some stainless steel braid over it??? Lee [This message has been edited by JuJu (edited March 29, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted March 29, 2000 Author Share Posted March 29, 2000 Thank you sir, for the #s. Also for the good laugh on the other board. Examining different year Zs, with quite a bit of cussing and bleeding, I found that clutch pedals were different from year to year. The 72s really aren't too bad. Still, I'm not much of contortionist. Salvage yard ?: Why is the car with the most hopeful part always placed too close to the next, which invariably has lots of sharp protrusions right were you'd like to work? [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited March 29, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 30, 2000 Share Posted March 30, 2000 John, No Problem...I'm sure that you'll be happy with it. And I know what you mean about the Zs in the salvage yards...while I was looking for a R200 pinion flange, the first salvage yard I went to seemed to have stacked at least 3 other cars on top of every Z car they had, which made it impossible to look at the differential, so I didn't waist any more time there. After leaving there I went to another place and was walking through the yard looking for Zcars when all of a sudden this NICE looking red ZX caught my eye. From my angle of approach, this car looked GOOD! I mean it wasn't a "cherry", but it looked way too good to be sitting in a junkyard. I was thinking, "Well, the other side of the car is probably bashed in or something". When I got over to it, there wasn't a dent on it. So I couldn't figure out why in the world this car would be in a junkyard. And guess what?...I looked inside the car and there was a smallblock chevy "block" sitting in the back and a set of heads laying in the front floorboard. So I thought, "YEP!, that explains it!". Somebody started a V8 project, got pissed, and now here it sits! I really don't know for sure if that's the case, because the stock motor was still in the car and looked to be in rebuildable shape...no rods hanging out of the block or anything. So maybe in the future I'll find out how much they would sell it for and start another project. Talk to you later... Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.