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Choosing a blow off valve, what should I be looking for?


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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest asleepz

Mine was wierd to setup. I'd get it set to where it wouldn't leak but then it sounded like all the pressure didn't come out at once but would let out, build up, then let out again.

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I've tried 3 different blow off/dump valves with my daily driver (Mitsu Lancer Evolution)

 

I've got the stock plastic one. Good drivability, no noise, hold boost up to 19 psi, no adjustments, very few part throttle fluttering, 100% recirc. Good piece but as soon as you mod your car, it leaks => loss of power.

 

Then the Forge RS, huge piston (50mm), hold boost up to +25psi (I've never been higher but can do way more, up to 35psi for some people), some noise but nothing crazy, poor drivability (the car was not smooth), a lot of fluttering at part throttle whatever was the adjustment, 100% recirc. It gives very good results for people who race their car ;) Mine was anodized black with FORGE lettering in raw aluminum color :)

 

FMDVRSR.jpg

http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0006&product=FMDVRSR

 

I have now an APS 2/3 recirc, 1/3 VTA. Hold boost very well (25psi easy), adjustable (you can play with the ratio recirc./VTA), can be loud at +15psi with a Psiiiiit (with snow on the hood grid, I see the snow jumping on my windshield when the bov evacuates air), drivability is awesome (better than the stock plastic unit). People were scared to use it to substitute the stock 100% recirc with the APS unit because of rich mixture during gear change but it shows that it does not.

 

bov_fmic1.jpg

bov_model_anim.gif

http://www.airpowersystems.com/us_spec/evo/bov/blow.htm

 

Best Bov for Evos are APS, Forge (racing only), stock Evo MR metal Bov ($80 at Mitsu dealer) and Tial.

 

Now for L28et and other turbo engine, I don't know how to compare ;) if there's less boost, it might be different.

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The way I see it is. Rebuilding a motor or a turbo is not inexpensive.

The 2 main parts that keep the turbo alive and the engine from poping are the BOV and the WG.

Why skimp on these parts? It's only a couple hundred more combined, at most, for the real thing. And the piece of mind knowing that they will work correctly Every Time is worth WAyyyy more than a couple hundred.

Would you buy a new Garrett GTS whatever and run a $6 flea bay manual boost controller. Hell no!

Don't chance it. Get the real thing. You will not find 1 single person that has anything bad to say about the performance of their Tial BOV or WG.

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Mine was wierd to setup. I'd get it set to where it wouldn't leak but then it sounded like all the pressure didn't come out at once but would let out, build up, then let out again.

 

So you said you loved it, then posted it was difficult to setup and didn't work quite right? Sounds like a turbo XS unit to me!

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Guest asleepz
So you said you loved it, then posted it was difficult to setup and didn't work quite right? Sounds like a turbo XS unit to me!

 

Yep, because after I did get it all sorted out I do love it. What's the problem?

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