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Lazeum last won the day on July 1 2014

Lazeum had the most liked content!

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About Lazeum

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  • Birthday 03/21/1980

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    Paris, France

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  1. I was fine with stock N42. Issue happened with P79 ported by Braaap (issue was with casting, not porting)
  2. That's right. The intersection of intake runners and head port made flow section being inconsistent. Weird knowing intake (Cannon Manifold with 40 DCOE) were used in the past on different head with no problem. I'm talking about 2mm difference between #1 & #6.
  3. I was chasing some AFR issues for years until I realized my intake manifold was not properly aligned with head. It was causing too lean condition on first 3 cylinders and too rich AFR on last 3 cylinders. Maybe worth a check? I found it while I was disassembling intake to port it.
  4. My car would stall as well if I do not have choke enabled or I would have to play with gas pedal as long as the car is not moving. We could live without it but it is nice to have it.
  5. Recommendation means feedback from people, doesn't it? My best recommendation is to follow some youtube channels. The 2 best ones to me are: The Fabrication Series & Welding Tip and Tricks
  6. Your setup is very neat. I’ve been thinking about a solution for awhile. Your setup looks so simple - which is great - I’m jealous you thought about it, not me :) congrats!
  7. I've also invested into TIG welder last year. We all have super projects to go such as roll bar, sway bar, braces, etc. At the end, we all need some learning curves and I got into furniture making. Simply because the risk to kill myself with a table or a lamp is lower than with chassis braces in my Z. So I've got a welder and I haven't yet made any automotive parts ! Between welding techniques, how to set up the welder, choose the right cups, tig rod, gas flow, etc. it takes a lot of time. We all make the same mistake: we believe because we have a welder, we can weld. This is far from being true. ...and when you believe you start to master the new toy tool, you start realizing that welding make everything moves. Something square at the beginning end up being all over the place at the end. So come new questions: heat management, how to tack and clamp stuffs, etc. You also realize you do not really know how to cut and shape metal. So it is not always only about welding but also preparation. It takes almost as much time to learn how to properly shape metal as welding. I have a IGBT Tig 200, same as Powerlast i-TIG 200T and I'm very happy with it. Having AC/DC TIG is for sure a nice feature but I could just use titanium instead if required 😅 Budget comes into play also. I'm way over 1500€ ($1500) with my setup when you add everything up. I believe having a digital inverter TIG is a must now. I love the pulse feature, high frequency start, slopes, etc. It really helps to control puddle and consistency for beginners with pulses. Because pictures are cool, here are some of my projects: A lamp with Edison type bulb, 10 hrs of work to make it. Cool project because it really teaches how to spot weld. A second lamp because I've found cool rusty chains that inspired me Because we all have to start somewhere: A bottle opener. You have no idea how popular it is. I've build 5 of them - I own none. Each time friends come at my place for a drink, they are begging me for one so I gave them apart. With this project, I was also able to play with arc length and heat. I was able to make some heat treatment to make the hook harder. Last project was a coffee table. My work of art (so far!). I've spent 40 hrs minimum in the making. Oh, and I had to learn how to work on reclaim wood also ! Almost done. I still need to finish the legs (hence the board below to avoid scratching the hardwood floor)
  8. From what's left under the hood, I would advise you to go all in with prep work. I've been there and I don't regret it at all. Looking at the shape of your block, hot tanked it is the way to go. Mine was in way better shape and had a lot of mud in coolant areas. Surfacing the block is not very expensive. I've paid around 50 for it. When it comes to cylinder walls, I don't see well but you should see some scratches. If you don't, you will have a least to hone them again. Check also for cylindricity. If they are out of shape, you also to move to bigger cylinder/rings.
  9. @Ironfoot In your 4G Prelude, you had a dizzy but timing wasn't controlled inside dizzy. It was already ECU managed providing proper timing.
  10. Electronic ignition is not about getting proper timing at max rpm, it is also how you control timing that matters. Any good "old style" dizzy can do that. But can you easily get 16° of advance at idle, 36° at high load/high rpm and 50° at low load/medium rpm? You can only achieve this with an ECU and good sensors. People say you cannot run Triples with vaccum advance, it is a shame because we're loosing driveability big time without it. Read document attached to convince/educate yourself if you'd like, it is full of good info. Pertronix or other systems going into stock dizzy without any kind of adjustments are a good upgrade over stock but nothing compared to full timing control. Weber-dcoe-fuel-economy-study.pdf
  11. Sorry for late answers. I did not receive notifications.... To answer questions: TPS was easier to setup . With Map I would have been afraid to have pulses issue without tapping all runners together for proper signal. MAP would indeed provide a better resolution and better control but it is not so much required afterall. The mount. I designed it on CAD software and I've asked a machinist I was working with to make itfor me. So he did with CNC machine. If you're interested, CAD file should be available somewhere. If it is not, I can share
  12. I've got a megajolt setup on mine and I love it a lot! It has been on my L28 for 5 years without any flows. When it comes to cost, everything including, I came up with a cost of nearly $1000. All the bits and small parts required make the bill bigger than expected Besides benefit of tuning timing for HP, with TPS or MAP control, you will be able to get proper timing at idle and low rpm. Results would be better driveability/smoothness, better low end torque, lower fuel consumption in addition to higher torque and HP. Here's a how-to I've made several years ago
  13. You should go and read the thread about Weber carbs. It is loaded with good info. Regarding your concerns, you need to check and share your setup with different jets sizes before anyone could help you out. Check also your float level with correct fuel pressure, give us details about how you setup the idle screw (how many turns?), the kind of triple you have (45DCOE142 ?), etc. Some were having troubles to tune the newer 45DCOE. The fix AFTER ALL ADJUSTMENTS WERE TRIED was to drill an extra progression hole. Good luck!
  14. I had the issue when doing some tuning for a friend. It happened the brackets holding the pushrods where too close to the carbs, they were rubbing against carb body. We had to add some washers between the carb and the brackets to get some extra clearance. It could also be because the nut of butterfly shaft is too tight. Try to remove the bracket/hardware to control carbs and check if they are still sticky. Your carbs are most likely fine.
  15. Your study is interesting! You should plot the AFR vs. Rpm. It would be easier to compare data.
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