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Lazeum last won the day on July 1 2014

Lazeum had the most liked content!

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About Lazeum

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  • Birthday 03/21/1980

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  1. From what's left under the hood, I would advise you to go all in with prep work. I've been there and I don't regret it at all. Looking at the shape of your block, hot tanked it is the way to go. Mine was in way better shape and had a lot of mud in coolant areas. Surfacing the block is not very expensive. I've paid around 50 for it. When it comes to cylinder walls, I don't see well but you should see some scratches. If you don't, you will have a least to hone them again. Check also for cylindricity. If they are out of shape, you also to move to bigger cylinder/rings.
  2. @Ironfoot In your 4G Prelude, you had a dizzy but timing wasn't controlled inside dizzy. It was already ECU managed providing proper timing.
  3. Electronic ignition is not about getting proper timing at max rpm, it is also how you control timing that matters. Any good "old style" dizzy can do that. But can you easily get 16° of advance at idle, 36° at high load/high rpm and 50° at low load/medium rpm? You can only achieve this with an ECU and good sensors. People say you cannot run Triples with vaccum advance, it is a shame because we're loosing driveability big time without it. Read document attached to convince/educate yourself if you'd like, it is full of good info. Pertronix or other systems going into stock dizzy without any kind of adjustments are a good upgrade over stock but nothing compared to full timing control. Weber-dcoe-fuel-economy-study.pdf
  4. Sorry for late answers. I did not receive notifications.... To answer questions: TPS was easier to setup . With Map I would have been afraid to have pulses issue without tapping all runners together for proper signal. MAP would indeed provide a better resolution and better control but it is not so much required afterall. The mount. I designed it on CAD software and I've asked a machinist I was working with to make itfor me. So he did with CNC machine. If you're interested, CAD file should be available somewhere. If it is not, I can share
  5. I've got a megajolt setup on mine and I love it a lot! It has been on my L28 for 5 years without any flows. When it comes to cost, everything including, I came up with a cost of nearly $1000. All the bits and small parts required make the bill bigger than expected Besides benefit of tuning timing for HP, with TPS or MAP control, you will be able to get proper timing at idle and low rpm. Results would be better driveability/smoothness, better low end torque, lower fuel consumption in addition to higher torque and HP. Here's a how-to I've made several years ago
  6. You should go and read the thread about Weber carbs. It is loaded with good info. Regarding your concerns, you need to check and share your setup with different jets sizes before anyone could help you out. Check also your float level with correct fuel pressure, give us details about how you setup the idle screw (how many turns?), the kind of triple you have (45DCOE142 ?), etc. Some were having troubles to tune the newer 45DCOE. The fix AFTER ALL ADJUSTMENTS WERE TRIED was to drill an extra progression hole. Good luck!
  7. I had the issue when doing some tuning for a friend. It happened the brackets holding the pushrods where too close to the carbs, they were rubbing against carb body. We had to add some washers between the carb and the brackets to get some extra clearance. It could also be because the nut of butterfly shaft is too tight. Try to remove the bracket/hardware to control carbs and check if they are still sticky. Your carbs are most likely fine.
  8. Your study is interesting! You should plot the AFR vs. Rpm. It would be easier to compare data.
  9. Good work with the exhaust and the video! I experienced the same outcome. I've made my own resonator with a friend and the drone / exhaust sound get quieter at steady rpm. Sound at WOT did not change much, which I don't complain about since I love the sound of the L6 with DCOE!
  10. If you can make it work, let me know. I've tried to make it work, it did for some minutes and then nothing. I either tried datalogging on the MJLJ or on my LM2. It doesn't want to work anymore...
  11. A proper designed bolt/nut clamped at the required torque (i.e. use a torque wrench if possible) should be designed to have enough clamping force to hold the mustache bar to the diff tight. The shape/size of the hole doesn't matter as long as it does not interfere with the clamping surface (flange of the nut in our case) The friction between the mustache bar, the diff and the nut matters. I second your advice about making sure there's no grease, dirt or defects in between parts.
  12. I did see a difference at the time where my engine was pinging. Timing change to avoid ping definitely made a difference. Now, I've got a distributorless ignition I can change timing on the fly. I've got some lean AFR conditions at high rpm so I've done some tests. I have not seen any difference in AFR reading with engine running in proper conditions (no ping) So to answer your question: - Engine running properly, Timing does not interfere much with AFR - Engine running poorly, timing could have significative impact.
  13. You should try xxf9 idle jet, they work much better than f8 units on L engine, at least on "old" Italian DCOEs (40DCOE-18). I would try 50f9 instead. It should help to get better acceleration too. Make sure your timing is ok. Too low timing would make the engine lazy and would create bog during acceleration also. Check also the jet deep inside the fuel bowl. Mine are closed with solder, they are 0 bleed jet to get the most fuel possible during accel. 34mm choke on stock L28 is on the high side. I had much better results with 32mm without compromising top end power while tuning some friends' stock L28. I'm running 135 & 34mm chokes with my tuned L28 engine and it is very rich, around 11:1 AFR (at least before engine run out of fuel in high rpm)
  14. Your point regarding probe being partially clogged could be something to doublecheck. That's a good point I always run the car until it is fully warmed up prior to plug my sensor. However, I've lent the sensor to some of my friends, not sure they followed the same procedure. Anyhow, sensor was working well for them with no lean reading at high rpm and I've always experienced off the chart lean reading while at idle at speed, even when sensor was brand new. For the record, I also always calibrate the sensor before any session. This is obvisously something I should have done but it requires to drop the full exhaust. I could do it but it is a major pita; it is customed made, every section is spot welded to avoid it to become loose. Maybe something to think about in the future...
  15. I thought I'd answered your message :/ Regarding my way of doing it is with a clamp made by Innovate. So I drive my car, go at WOT, steady/cruising operation and I record everything while driving. I can put my car on load, record and analyse everything quietly on the side of the road with the laptop. I can change jets along the road and go back. Same goes with timing, I analyze things out, change timing and go for trials. I'm going to order needle jets and see if that could change anything.
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