Guest kc6wfs Posted December 10, 2000 Share Posted December 10, 2000 Hello all, I have for the most part finished my conversion except for the exhaust and have only fired up the "z" 3 or 4 times. First time took 3 tries.. New motor.. I ran it for a min or so. Next day I went to start it and the starter slipped a tad but it started fairly quick on the first try. Today I installed my Spal fans and the darn starter was only grinding when I went to start it. I pulled the starter and the gear is shreaded 1/8" or so. The shop.. Little mom and pop place that has helped me through the conversion is sending the starter back to the rebuilder to see what they think. Mom and pop was telling me I need to shim the starter but he could not tell me how to. I have worked on cars for a long time and have never had to shim a starter. I'm sure I'm going to have to eat the cost of the starter but what might have caused the starter to get eaten so quick?? It was the 3rd pictured (light weight) in the JTR book. Works with the 153 tooth and the 168 tooth flex plate. I have the ZZ4 flex plate and a 2000 Vortec 350 and a 1984 700R4. Help!!!!!!! Dave Booth http://www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted December 10, 2000 Share Posted December 10, 2000 Sounds like something is out of alignment. I've never had to shim either, but the dang things are common. Must happen sometimes. Since your starter gear is destroyed you might want to check the condition of the teeth on your flexplate as well...all the way around. If any are in poor shape and since they are a harder metal, they'll eat on the new starter too. I've cleaned up minor flaws with a small file. I've never used a starter that was a universal fit for both diam. befor, maybe someone else can add here. Good luck! JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted December 10, 2000 Share Posted December 10, 2000 Sorry to hear about that Dave. Often it's only a change of the nose piece to fit a 153 or 168 flywheel. About shimming, the box a starter comes in usually has a label/dirxn on shimming. From underneath with tranny cover off you check the gap b/t bottom of the starter teeth and flywheel with a paperclip or similar, just from memory. I've only had starter's rebuilt, never bought new so didn't get that paper slip. But when a guy on a jobsite got a new starter and had the 'shim' they include left over I grabbed it just in case it's ever needed. I'd assume your gap could only be too tight and then shimming it would lower your starter and increase/create some gap at the base of the starter teeth in the flywheel 'slots'. But do make sure the teeth are compatible if this is an issue. good luck ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kc6wfs Posted December 11, 2000 Share Posted December 11, 2000 Thanks for the replys. Looks like GM made special self aligning bolts for the starter. I used 3/8" bolts out of the bolt bin and I guess thats the problem. The starter was shifting. I won't do that again.. Thanks Dave Booth http://www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kc6wfs Posted December 11, 2000 Share Posted December 11, 2000 Thanks for the replys. Looks like GM made special self aligning bolts for the starter. I used 3/8" bolts out of the bolt bin and I guess thats the problem. The starter was shifting. I won't do that again.. Thanks Dave Booth http://www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/240z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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