Guest Anonymous Posted May 1, 2001 Share Posted May 1, 2001 OUCH !! When my 350 Chevy(approx 300+ HP) reaches full operating temperature in my Ferrari/Z kit car-at idle -it feels like it's going to stall and I have to give it gas to clear "clear it's throat". I have a new edelbrock 600,dropped the tank and flushed it, new fuel filter and still the problem persists. Timing is ok. I have an electric fan and also a flex fan. Electric fuel pump in the rear of the car(Vapor lock?). Any experts with any ideas-I need help. Cappy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted May 1, 2001 Share Posted May 1, 2001 Can you tell if its fuel related or coolant related and maybe even ignition related! Ignition-sounds like the old GM coils; they'ld run fine until they got hot from engine heat-then the engine would spit/sputter till it died. Wouldnt restart till the coil cooled off! Fuel Related Issues: 1) Is your fuel pump new, or the old pump? 2) Are you running a Fuel Pump Regulator? 3) Did you make any changes to the carb-fine tune it in anyway? 4) Are the fuel lines new/used-the old original lines? For coolant related problems: 1) Are you using the Pulley's the engine came with or aftermarker pulleys? 2) Are you running a new/old water pump-what did the impellers look like before installing the water pump. 3) Are you running a new, old or no theremostat at all; what degreee t-stat? 4) What were your tolerances on your piston rings...if you're running race tolerances on the street it will create more friction & the engine will run hotter as a result. 5) What kind of radiator are you running? How many cores? 6) Prior to a cold start-have you pulled your radiator cap/started your engine & watched the coolant-confirmed it is circulating? 7) As per JTR manual-make sure your fan blades are not all the way in the shroud-are you even running a shroud? You want the blades almost all the way in w/about 3/4" of the blade sticking out. 8) If your pulleys are overdriving the water pump then your coolant doesnt have enough time to remove the heat, which isnt a problem at low rpms but at full cruise additional heat builds up causing your temp to soar! 9) 8 is all I can think of-anyone else? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) [ April 30, 2001: Message edited by: Kevin Shasteen ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted May 1, 2001 Share Posted May 1, 2001 I had the same problem with my 409 Impala.When your engine is at temp can you touch your carb without burning your self? What was happening is that the fuel in the bowls where evaporating because of the engine heat. So I installed a carb heat shield between the carb and intake, and that solved the problem. I can touch the carb and it's nice and cool. Try it, I think Mr Gasket makes one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 1, 2001 Share Posted May 1, 2001 I agree with Mike. I am refighting the same thing again. I put an isolator between the manifold and carb, and that helped. Now that the ambient temps are coming up, I have more to do. Part of my problem is the hood. It does well to help the air flow out of the engine, but also causes the air to heat up the carb. Ct.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 3, 2001 Share Posted May 3, 2001 What a wealth of information-thanks.. Some I can answer. Electric fuel pump - 5.5#-regulated. MSD ignition. 1500 miles on engine-top and bottom rebuild-.30 over. New edelbrock carb. New waterpump. New 4 core radiator. Spacer between carb and manifold(non-heat conducting). Any chance a couple of bad spark plug wire cause these symptoms?? Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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