This is what I get...

[TimZ]

...for not having my own machine shop.

 

Let's see... I received Scottie's very nicely done CV adaptors somewhere around March 15. That weekend, I disassembled the rear hubs, and took them into a local machinist to be fitted and welded up. Really, I could have done it myself, but was not confident enough in my welding skills to be able to both get the adaptors on straight, and have a strong enough weld for such a high stress application. Also, I wanted to have them balanced.

 

Seems like a simple enough thing for a machinist to do, right?

 

So, THREE WEEKS later (last Friday) I get them back from this guy, and promptly took them over to get them powdercoated - didn't want any nasty rust uglying up my very cool CV adaptors...

 

Installed the first one tonight. Guess what? It has a lateral runout of about .070".

 

I couldn't believe it. It looks like a wheel off a g@*d#mned Shriner car.

 

So... now I'm in a quandary about what to do next. I'm definitely taking it back to the machinist tomorrow, and inquiring as to how exactly he was able to balance it. I am going to insist that he make this right, but I don't know if this part can be salvaged. I may need a new companion flange and adaptor.

 

A couple of questions come to mind - first, did anybody get any spares? Second, if I get another companion flange, does it need to be matched with a specific distance piece, or does it matter?

 

Sorry to rant, but I just paid good money for the privilege of waiting nearly a month for results that I am certain I could have bested with my grinder and MIG in a weekend. Grrrrr.

[Drax240z]

I feel your pain. We payed a couple of 'certified' welders to do some welding for us at the place I worked. After 4 days, they were done and gone. The result: A much poorer job than any of our own non-ticketed welders could have done. We ripped it out and had it completly rebuilt in 12 hours. (me and 1 other guy... and it took 2 of them 3-4 days?)

 

Needless to say the next time a situation like that came up, there were no ticketed welders called in.

 

If you want something done right, do it yourself...

 

------------------

"Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool."

 

Richard Lewis - 1972 240z, Powered by a Nissan 2.8L Turbo Inline 6.

Drax240's Turbo Site

Beginners Turbo FAQ & Answers

[Guest Anonymous]

Yeah, a welder with certs. really just has to past some tests and retain some information on meturalurgy, it does'nt necessarily make them a great welder. Sorry to hear about your bad experience, that really bites, although some distortion I think would be expected, .070 seems a bit much when you amplify it by a larger diameter of the wheel. I think that perhaps a driveline shop would be much more likely to get it right (unless thats what you used).

 

Respectfully,

 

Lone

 

[This message has been edited by lonehdrider (edited April 09, 2001).]

[TimZ]

I'm guessing it's roughly equivalent to having the wheel wobble back and forth by about 3/8". Pretty bad.

 

This is just so depressing - I was only a couple of days away from having my car back on the road. Would've been the first time that I actually had it ready for spring in several years.

[randy 77zt]

i havent put mine on because i am trying to think of what to do with sway bay mount hole.i have thought about checking run out when welding up though.you would need to chuck axle flange into something and spin assembly.then tack in 2 spots and recheck.

[Kevin Shasteen]

I agree about finding a driveline shop that does custom axles. Dallas has a good one that's been in existance for decades; Michigan-the home of our finest V8 Iron/small blocks & big blocks by every Mfg should have more driveline shops than you could shake a stick at (there I go-ending a sentance w/a prepasition again)!

 

Talk to local service dept's at dealers/find out who they use when they need a custom driveline made...or better yet/find a custom rod/speed shop that handles custom builds...ask them what local driveline shops will do custom work/they should be able to remedy your problem.

 

Good luck & so so sorry about your delemma!

That really stinks-you expect a shop that claims to be a "Pro" does something w/that large of a tolerance; pathetic!

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

[Andrew Bayley]

Tim,

Sorry to hear about that. I was looking forward to a spring cruise down T-graph in your Z.

 

If you need an extra 280Z stub axel, I might have one laying around at my Dad's place you can have. Also, what machine shop did you use (just tell me the intersection, you don't need to say the name online)? Every time I've needed driveline work done, I've gone to "Joint, Clutch and Gear" up on 8 mile in Warren. They have always done good work for me, and more importantly, they are quick and inexpensive. Jim Biondo knows of a place in Troy somewhere that has a super accurate balancing machine, but they charge big bucks. Again, I've never had any problems with J.C.C. before.

 

Let me know if you need any info.

 

-Andy

 

------------------

"But I don't sit idly by,

I'm planning a big surprise."

 

Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

[TimZ]

Andy - it's the one near Pelham and Van Born. It's pretty well known locally, and I thought it was well respected.

 

To be fair, I took the problem piece in and showed it to the proprietor today. He quickly admitted that it was screwed up, and is going to try to fix it (cut the welds and re-center it). So, at least he didn't give me any sh#t, and is trying to make it right. The end result remains to be seen, though.

 

In hindsight, Joint, Clutch and Gear would have been the obvious choice - it just didn't occur to me for the halfshaft adaptors for some reason. Doh. They are building me up a new driveshaft as we speak, BTW, but that's another story (hopefully not a bad one )...