Owen Posted May 14, 2001 Share Posted May 14, 2001 Went to get an R200LSD for $250 on saturday and wound up getting an R230 with 4 shafts from a different shop instead, for $275. So from other posts I think I need: Axles shortened and re-splined. New diff brace. Drill new holes in mustache bar. Make front diff mount. Diff to driveshaft connection. Is that it?? My questions are, 1. What length should the halfshafts be? 2. Should I use 240 or 280 stub axle? (what year 280?) 3. Outer or inner CVs? 4. What is the tube and electrical connection on the diff for? Mine is a 1993 Q45. 5. Who was it that sells the brace and the mustache bar for this purpose? Thanks, Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted May 14, 2001 Author Share Posted May 14, 2001 I saw somewhere that said it was a 3.69 but I believe it is the 3.54. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 14, 2001 Share Posted May 14, 2001 Congrats on your score! Try www.kaynor.net for an LSD brace to fit your car. It looks like a nice piece and I think you won't go wrong. An earlier thread (long post) dealing with the R230 (Mike Kelly) had Mark saying good things about it. I believe he was talking about this mount. Hope this helps! David [ May 14, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted May 15, 2001 Share Posted May 15, 2001 Owen, The electrical connector is for the traction control or the abs either way you don't need it. Use the inner cv's on both ends of the shortened shaft. You will need an adaptor to go from the CV bolt pattern to the stub axel pattern, take both parts to a machine shop. They can make a doughnut with the bolt patterns needed. As for the length of the shafts, measure the depth of the CV's and the length inbetween the cv,s when mounted on the car. Allow some length for suspension travel. You may want to consider having a part machined to act as a stop for the axel. This part would replace the CV cap on the cv closest to the diff. The half shaft will "walk" toward the diff and can actually deform the CV cap and may pull loose from the outer cv if this is not done. Great find. Good luck. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted May 15, 2001 Share Posted May 15, 2001 And PLEEEEEASE dopcument this with lot's of pics, part numbers, and lessons learned! I'll host it if you want or have it hosted here, just please get it out there for the rest of us! Those diffs are apparently easier to find and stronger with ratios that some of us would really like so having someone document this swap would truly be awesome! Oh, did I say PLEEEEEASE already? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 15, 2001 Share Posted May 15, 2001 Uh, yes you did... but you didn't say "PRETTY PLEEEEZE!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted May 15, 2001 Share Posted May 15, 2001 What ratio did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted May 16, 2001 Author Share Posted May 16, 2001 OK, I'll take the pictures but I think Mark and Curtis (anyone else?) are more suited to give the advice! I was thinking of changing the seals and stuff while its still on the floor but those output flanges look really hard to remove from the diff! Gotta get out the trusty slide hammer! Looks like the completion date is pushed back indefinitely until I get this sucker in! Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted May 16, 2001 Author Share Posted May 16, 2001 Took some pictures of the thing last nite, sucker is HEAVY! At least 100lbs I think... Didn't have time to do any accurate measurements so don't trust the ones on the page. Using the R230 stub axle with the 240Z stock strut is gonna be a pain, looks like I'm taking Mark's route with shortening and resplining. Mark, do you have any measurements on how long the shaft was after shortening? http://blake.prohosting.com/~s30z/r230.htm Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted May 16, 2001 Share Posted May 16, 2001 So that's what the diff in my car looks like? Hrm. It does look rather large and heavy. Then again, the R200 is no lightweight either. Very good clear pictures Owen! Thanks for posting. I might run down to see if I can poach one of these in the local yard. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted May 16, 2001 Author Share Posted May 16, 2001 Brought some parts with me to work, makes it easier to brainstorm that way From what I counted, there are 28 splines on the inner CV. Will count the other side when I get home. There's a connector for the traction control, which is useless to us. And there is also a fitting/tube for the oil, which spilled out all over the back of my car... I wonder if this can be used to hookup a differential oil cooler somehow? Owen [ May 16, 2001: Message edited by: Owen ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted May 18, 2001 Share Posted May 18, 2001 owen-the electronic gizmo is a speed sensor-you can use it to drive an autometer or other electronic speedo and eliminate speedo cable.most electronic speedos have a calibrate button that yuo push at the start of a measured mile and push again at end.if you are using a t56 it wont have a speedo cable drive anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted May 18, 2001 Author Share Posted May 18, 2001 Thanks, But what about the rubber tube from whither all the oil spilled out? I'll check the dealer. I'm driving my speedo off the T56 already. Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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