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Alternator install CS130-D GM late model


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I chose the CS130-D series for a lot of reasons. It is not the smallest, nor the lightest, but it has a good mix of overall features. I am not going to use a ONE-WIRE alternator with my rear mounted battery. Those are for people who don't care about battery charge or stable voltage.

AlternatorCS130-Dpartnumbers.jpg

 

 

 

The CS series has been around for quite some time. The 130-D series is relatively new and capable of putting out full current at lower RPMs. It's regulator and pin configuration are significantly different than previous models. The CHARGE/IGN pin requires much higher resistance than the older models that used a light bulb as a resistor. I am using 150 OHMs in the CHG circuit. DO-NOT install this alternator if you don't understand the CHG-light system. There are ONE-WIRE regulators available for this unit.

 

I am installing it on a 1964 SBC 327 with 461 heads. There are no threaded holes in the heads for accessory mounting. This means I had to fab my own mount based on something the previous owner had done.

I used a 7" piece of 1.5" angle steel that I welded 2 tabs on to support the lower mount ears. That piece is bolted to the top 2 fuel pump fastener holes. The holes are 3/8-16". You may have to drill and tap your holes larger to support the custom bracket.

 

I am using an oversized pulley to underdrive the alternator. This car will see mostly track mileage so I don't need full alternator power at idle. This is one of the reasons I chose the CS130-D. It has great power output at relatively low RPMs.

 

 

 

anyway here are the pics.

 

Alternatorbracketoverview.jpg

 

 

Alternatorbracketbeltrouting.jpg

 

 

Alternatorbracketfront.jpg

 

 

Alternatorbracketrear.jpg

 

 

 

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I looked and looked and looked and never really got an acceptable answer to the resistance wire questions.

 

I put a serpentine system on an sbc, utilizing a generic wiring harness. The CS130 has S F L P connections, with the S being the big red wire :) and (IIRC) F & L being used for non-resistance/resistance respectively connections.

 

Is that correct or do I need a 75 ohm/3 watt resistor in the L line?

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Good tech here!!!

 

http://users.apex2000.net/whardie/charg.html

 

 

You can get them in any configuration here!!! There are great descriptions in the header for each model.

http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_&_cs130d_alt.htm

 

 

 

You have to consider that the new regulators ground out this CHG light pin. The older systems used lower resistance CHG circuits but the older alternators had considerable internal resistance to offset this. Even then they could be burned out without the 6 OHM lamp/resistor.

 

I used 150 OHMs with a 5 WATT resistor that is open to airflow with a series wired 3 AMP diode(overkill but handy). Technically I have a 152 OHM ciruit with the drop in the diode considered. The resistor gets semi-hot to the touch if grounded for an extended period of time.

 

75 OHMs, 13.8 VOLTS you will be dissapating 2.5 Watts assuming there is no internal resistance in the regulator to this pin. That 3 WATT rating assumes the resistor is open to airflow. If it is bundled into a harness it will get too hot over time. Not a good idea if you leave the key in it, ON in your garage overnight.

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