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FYI-Be careful about the clutch master cylinder you purchase - there ARE difference


ktm

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After my clutch fork pivot ball issue, I ran into another problem where my clutch master and slave cylinders bit the dust. No problem, I'll pick up a set at Autozone as these are easy to replace.

 

I install the Z32 slave and a 280z master cylinder, bled the system, and could not get the clutch to disengage. I then spent 2 more hours adjusting the play, bleeding the system, more adjusting, etc. and still could not get the clutch to disengage.

 

I finally pulled the new MC out and compared it to my old, stock 240z MC. The distance from the top of the rubber boot to the end of the piston was a full 1/2 shorter on the new MC. I pulled the new MC out after I saw that even with the MC fully adjusted OUT, my clutch pedal could not touch the rubber stopper with it adjusted out.

 

I drove down to MSA yesterday morning and picked up a new 280z Tokico MC and measured the length of the piston. It was identical to my old one in length. However, I asked to look at the old display MC in their case and IT was a full 1/2 shorter!

 

Just a word of warning. Make sure that you measure your MC piston length before replacing it.

MC1_thumb.JPG

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wow!!! this might have been my clutch problem the whole time!!! i just ended up lengthening my slave cylinder rod instead, BUT i should go ahead and see if i can find an OEM new part and see if that solves anything

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