mario_82_ZXT Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 On my friend's L28ET swapped 280z, we are having this weird issue. It seems that the CHTS reads off, but thats not the weird part. If we turn on the electric fan, it will go crazy! Sometimes hitting 350deg indicated, all very rapidly. Then it will settle down around 170deg, with spikes in the upper 200s. (170 sounds right, with the 160deg thermostat). If you flick the fan off, again, it goes nuts, sometimes killing the engine if the idle is low, as it throws the enrichments off. Any ideas? Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datman Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Does he have a crank sensor? if not check engine and body grounds are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 Does he have a crank sensor? if not check engine and body grounds are good. I have had problems with an electric fan mounted too close to the VR (crank) sensor. Caused all sorts of input trigger errors, causing the engine to miss. Moved it away from the sensor, problem fixed. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datman Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 I have had problems with an electric fan mounted too close to the VR (crank) sensor. Caused all sorts of input trigger errors, causing the engine to miss. Moved it away from the sensor, problem fixed. Pete Yep, me too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SidWell Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 I have had problems with an electric fan mounted too close to the VR (crank) sensor. Caused all sorts of input trigger errors, causing the engine to miss. Moved it away from the sensor, problem fixed. Pete OH NO!!! After all that work, someone please tell me that I wont have to move my CAS as well. I have an electric water pump just above the sensor and my intention was to mount and electric fan in front of the radiator / AC condensor. Is the proximity to the alternator an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted June 24, 2008 Share Posted June 24, 2008 What is important is how close to the sensor the fan motor is. If the fan motor is more than 3" away, you should be all set. Mounting the fan in front of the radiator will fix it for sure. As far as the water pump and alternator, I would just wait and see. If the RPM in Megatune jumps around, try temporarily disconnecting the water pump power. Next, pull the power to the alternator. Lastly, just remove the alternator belt to see if you get a stable tach signal. Hopfully you won't have to do any of this... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted June 24, 2008 Author Share Posted June 24, 2008 Nope, it's not an RPM issue. The RPM input comes from the optical dizzy. We changed the ground on the CHTS to use the same ground as the MS box. After we changed that, flicking it on will show 450deg, then it will settle down around 270-290deg, and flicker every now and then to 170deg. I'm going to see if we can run it as a pusher in between the IC and rad, and the power to it on the passenger fender. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.