SidWell

Very interesting and nicely done. What fuel injection system do you use? What is the third rail for? Coolant? Something else?

MSII with EDIS: Under a wide open throddle condition and the spark advanced to a point where any more advance will not burn any more fuel, does the engine need a different AFR for one RPM and a different AFR for a higher RPM? I know this is an awkward question so I will restate it: Assuming an engine is running at wide open throddle, making max horsepower with an AFR of 12.8:1 @ 2500 RPM. but at 4500 RPM and WOT will the AFR requirement change for max horsepower?

It sounds like you got the wrong wrap from the parts store. There are two basic applications: one for headers and very high temps, the other is for water systems and keeping heat away from the fuel lines. I suspect you purchased the lower temp wrap. Make sure the stuff you purchase says it is made for headers.

I had to make the exhaust myself because nothing existed that would do the job. I even had to make my own Y pipe.

What do you hope to accomplish by going to MS?

just under 2" IIRC URC. They are 1 7/8" or about 47mm. Thanks

I'm really not up on TonySpeak,, is gaaaaarrrrrrgh! good or bad? Too bad we did not get a chance to hook up before I left sunny So Cal. I think you would like how the car runs now.

Burniator... I agree with what you said. In fact, at freeway cruising speeds I have leaned out my AFR to over 15:1. I need less than 25hp to move the car at 70 so there is little load on the engine. My question revolved around wide open throddle conditions: Does the engine produce best horsepower at a given AFR at one RPM and at a different RPM does it require a different AFR?

Those are three 2 bbl throddle bodies. They were pulled from three junk yard Nissan Maximas.

Do different RPM's demand a different AFR? In other words, at 3,000 RPM an engine produces best HP at 12.8:1 but at 6,000 RPM the max HP is found at 13.2:1? These are just numbers that I threw out there as an example to explain the question. Not to be taken as fact.

Golly.. all that stuff looks so complicated. I like simple.

I found those mirrors about 20 years ago at Pep Boys. I have them fitted with convex mirrors.

what kind of wire are you using to connect the VR sensor to the EDIS unit? Where is the cable running? Is it close to the alternator? Is it close to an electric fan motor? Is it close to the wiring that supports the generator or electric fan? You could be the victim of an external noise source... even a spark plug wire. Make sure you have a shielded cable and keep it as far away from anything that can generate electrical noise. Are you sure you have the correct polarity from the VR sensor?

Do you have old log files from last summer? Check you vacuum readings at idle from an old log and look at the vacuum at idle now. That will tell you right away if it is a vacuum leak.

Check your fuel pressure regulator or the fuel pump.

Con Brio.... When I have a few extra minutes I will take a couple of pics of the inside of the vent/window. The way the spare tire is mounted does not allow for the smaller trunk conversion.

There are no leak issues. I built up about 1/4" lip at the bottom of the vent to make sure water did not pool there. The felt around the vent makes for a very nice seal as well. BTW: I just updated my build site with larger pictures, more of them and organized them better. Enjoy. BTW #2: I will be moving to Central Washington state soon. Are there any GTO people in that area?

Does anybody have a line on the larger fender badges? I have been able to locate badges that are about 4" long. I am looking for something that is more in the 7" long range. This is a pic of the car several years ago. Note the large badge on the fender.

Was the car shipped in and enclosed or open trailer? I am relocating and will be shipping mine in an enclosed trailer. I hope I do not have the nightmare you did.

If it was lowered, it was lowered by the original Z owner. I did not lower it.

the fronts are 225/60 R15 and the backs are 245/60 R15

Other than a few details like charging the air conditioning system and replumbing the idle air controller, I think I am pretty much done (for now) with the Ferrarz. Here are a couple of pics of it as it is now.

You will always be changing things. If you dont know how to work on it, you will never be happy with it. Worst yet, the poor guy you get to do the job will never be done with it. You will always blame him because it is not working right. This form is for people like you and me. If you don't know something or have trouble understanding something. There are lots of people willing to help.

Everything below the cylinder head is stock and well used. The head is ported and polished. The cam is a bit more agressive than stock. 6:1 equal length exhaust header dumping into a 2 1/2 inch exhaust. The intake is a custom built ITB setup. The injectors are 280 ZX Turbo 280 cc. For me, it was all about getting the car to breath. With the stock manifold, no matter what you do to it, it just does not breath. The runners going from the air log to the cylinder head are just to narrow to move much air. The intake and exhaust ports really benefit from getting cleaned up. As I see it; if you can't move air into and out of the cylinder head, raising compression and displacement will not do you that much good.

Yes. One set is labled "LastWeek" the other set is labled "Today".