Lighft01 Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Anyone have trouble getting the rubber mount to bolt to the crossmember. The wholes on mine are about 1/8th of an inch off, its just enough to keep one of the bolts from bolting in correctly. Just wondering if anyone had the same problem, i dont have a drill press and i imagine thats the only way you could drill steel that thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudeboy Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Mine's were off just enough so the bolt could not come through. I took the Dremel to it, but I made sure I had on correct before I started grinding. A Dremel tool will become your friend !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwwisnesky Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 I had the same issue, drilled the wholes slighty larger, used washers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maichor Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 What's a whole? Twice as much as a half? JK ;p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwwisnesky Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 A "whole" is a hole with a w in front of it!!! touche Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maichor Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 See, then you did the right thing, if you grind off that "w" then the bolt will fit in the hole! Sorry about not adding anything to the tech discussion, but I couldn't resist. For alignment issues, I usually get as big a punch as I can and stick it through the holes and use the brute force techique. However, it sounds like maybe Phantom's car, which was the prototype, was a little different that yours and so the holes don't line up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dreco Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 See, then you did the right thing, if you grind off that "w" then the bolt will fit in the hole! Sorry about not adding anything to the tech discussion, but I couldn't resist. For alignment issues, I usually get as big a punch as I can and stick it through the holes and use the brute force techique. However, it sounds like maybe Phantom's car, which was the prototype, was a little different that yours and so the holes don't line up. you mean the tolerances between Z's isnt spot on? hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lighft01 Posted July 29, 2008 Author Share Posted July 29, 2008 Luckily i only work about 5 miles from Johns Cars, so i took it back and he found out that every one of them that he had on in stock were off. So he redrilled it for me while i was there, and it worked fine. Picked up a driveshaft while i was there, so shouldnt be too long before my car is running/moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragefear Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 awe man, I got my kit like a week ago, I would imagine its off to then... At least I know! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rookie z Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 my cross member will not fit between the frame rails.help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bucket240z Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 It would be better to start a new thread for that issue. my cross member will not fit between the frame rails.help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cannonball55 Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 all things considering is John's car kit the best one out there? i plan on buying one in next couple weeks and don't want to have any problems. thanks, stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wako240z Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 I haven't found any alternatives and I was not too impressed by their mounts especially the trans. I do not like the idea of bolting in a flat bar into the floor of a 240. You can't really blame JCI for that since it is a "bolt on kit". I opted out to make my own witch requires much more effort and extensive welding. I am working on documentation of the swap (it's still work in progress). Just to give you an idea of my mounts I attached few pics of the progress. The first two show the location of the engine mounts in relation to the front crossmember. The next two pics are of the brackets that were welded to the frame rails to hold the engine mounts (It's actually a plate that was welded to two sides of the frame rail to reinforce the rails with a tab that the actual engine mounts bolts up to, the bar that goes across is actually part of the engine mount and its removable). Next picture is the start of the fabrication of the engine mount and the engine finally in on the newly fabricated engine mounts. It sits in about the same location as the JCI kit. The next few pics are of the trans mount. It uses more or less the same idea as the original trans mount. I removed the ears from the original mounts and fabricated a brace that I welded the original ears to. The new brace is located about 6 inches back from the original one and since the original one was not in the way of the trans I left it in for some added strength. The trans crossmember was fabricated to go between the mouts and it hangs at about the same hight as the frame rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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