cannonball55

Hey hey Dsommer, yeah was good meeting ya at Branson Zfest. Still got that Hat ya gave me thx again. If this guy bails on purchasing her I'll definatly get in contact with ya on the ls3/t56 combo idea. I still have the stock engine trans I could stick back into her. Did the scarab find a new home yet? I seen it forsale awhile back. - Thx,Stewart Got a few people explaining to me that I shouldn't have spent that much and I wouldn't be having an issue with finances, and how its not the cars fault its not worth more. All pretty obvious stuff. Easy to spend a bit when you have a good solid job making good cash. Sucks when economy takes a dump and takes your job with it. I just wanted people to see and understand that Z cars are not something to invest any serious money into as you will never get it out. Its a slippery slope and easy to find yourself sliding down it. Live and learn but it doesn't hurt to try to keep your fellow man from making the same mistake. Well got to run just found out that I'm out of beer and have to run to the store. Oh almost forgot someone asked for pics. Heres link to photobucket pics and a short video at the track. http://s445.photobucket.com/albums/qq176/55cannonball55/240Z%20Forsale/ http://s816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/koukimonster07/Z%20Fest%20June%202010/?action=view&current=DSCN0575.mp4

Car is being sold to keep from losing my home. Only reason I'm selling it is to get the cash to try to refinance it and somehow try to keep my head above water. When life gives you lemons sometimes selling your Z is better than making lemonade. Thanks, Stewart

Build a 240z with a LS3 in it is a good way to toss your money away. I have had several people ask me why my car I have forsale is so expensive. I figured I'd set down and do the math and see where I went wrong. To end up with a car that cost so much to build and is flat worthless when it comes to selling it. I started with a $5,000 clean pretty much rust free 1973 240Z. After that the parts list begins.... Car $5000 Crate engine LS3 with "Hot cam" rated 480 HP $6500 Wiring harness for LS3 $1000 T56 6 speed (rebuilt to handle 650 ft. lbs tq.) $3000 R200 rearend nissan clutch style lsd $1000 LS series mount set from John's cars $295 Headers from John's cars $330 AC compressor and mounts from John's cars $450 Driveshaft from John's cars $235 Trans crossmember and mount from John's cars $135 Griffin Aluminum radiator $350 Electric pusher fan 10" $80 Electric puller fan 12" $95 Radiator catch can $40 Altenator for ls3 $175 LS3 Belt tensioner $50 Starter for LS3 $100 Fidanza aluminium flywheel $350 Spec Clutch for LS3 $450 Wilwood Master cylinder $100 Billet Z31 CV/Companion Flange Adaptors from Modern motorsports $395 Billet 4340 280Z Stub Axles 4 lug pattern from modern motorsports $695 Bearing kit for stub axles from modern motorsports $100 Rota RB wheels $750 Yokohama tires $850 Mount and balance tires $50 Fuel cell from summit $160 Threaded fuel cell filler cap assembly $45 High pressure fuel pump $300 AN fittings for fuel system $180 AN braided line for fuel system $75 High pressure aeromotive fuel filter with replaceable element $150 A1000 Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator $140 Autometer in dash Phantom tach $155 Autometer phantom 160 mph electric programmable speedometer $225 Autometer phantom fuel gauge $50 Autometer phantom water temp gauge $80 Autometer phantom oil pressure gauge $70 Welding leads to relocate battery to rear of car $100 New Battery $75 Extra wide custom ZG flares with mounting kits $250 K&N cold air air filter 4" inlet $50 Heavy duty headlight harness from black dragon $30 6 Clutches to rebuild LSD unit and remove spacers $100 Total $24810 Taxes? $1500? This is not counting all the other odds and ends I did like rewiring the entire car, radiator hoses, sanding discs bought, undercoat purchased, antifreeze, mobil1 oil and filter, stainless steel bolts on engine and accesories, all of the exhaust system I seam to have forgotten but was 500-600 bucks. Plus factor in the 250ish hours involved in the build to throw salt in the wound lol. Just a heads up to the guys that think building one of these cars with good top of the line parts is cheap. Plan your car and what you think its gonna cost you and then double it. The good news....I finally think I have my car sold. A guy is coming next week to check it out from out of state. If he likes it he will hand me $17,000 and drive off with my $28,000 car. Lesson Learned. Thanks, Stewart

Yeah check out the Hayabusa powered smart cars on youtube one is an 11 second 1/4 mile car.

I ran a A1000 in my 240z on a 500 hp ls3 and it burnt up after about 100 miles of use. I asked around and what everyone that had ever used one told me is that "its a must to mount them in the tank so the fuel can cool them". Over heating is a major issue. Mine was mounted at the rear of the car on the back side of the fuel cell. It got huge amounts of airflow while driving yet still crapped out. I was also told that its very important to use the aeromotive recommended size lines. I ended up selling mine to a guy who was gonna rebuild it and I just run a MSD inline fuel pump and it works great (and was a third the cost). The a1000 is not recommended for a daily driver is what I learned after useing it. Thing sounded like a jet turbine spooling up when i turned on the ignition.

Anyone seen that header company that sends you pvc pipe and flexible joints that lock in place? You cut the pvc and put it all together then lock the joints where you want them then mail the assembley to them and they mail you back a stainless steel header that matches your model. I can't remember the name of the company... Fairly reasonable price if I remember correct. May be worth getting one set made and useing that set as a pattern and having a shop build multiple sets for a group buy.

PMed ya Borini63. May be interested if no 4.11s turn up. Thanks, Stewart

The 200sx rearend the longnose version? A search shows they made 200sx from 84-88 but in 87 they dropped the turbo version. Also there is some sort of change in the cars pre 3/86 from the cars from 4/86 and newer. Anyone know what this change would be? Those 4.11 gears would sure be nice. Having issues with alot of unuseable power at the moment. In 6th gear at 70 mph I'm only spinning at 1800ish rpm with 3.70 gears.

Looking for a longnose r200 3.90 or 4.10 ratio. Thanks Stewart

I would rather keep my clutch style lsd instead of switching to a viscous one. Do any aftermarket companies make ring and pinion sets for r200s that will work? Anyone have a set of gears that they would like to sell? With the long nose r200 am I limited to finding gears for an 84-89 300zx? Thanks Stewart

Looking into getting a new ring and pinion for my 1989 r200 out of a 300 zx turbo. Its the clutch style lsd. I would prefer 4.10 or atleast 3.90. The 3.70 are too tall for my setup. In 6th gear at 70 mph I'm at only 1800 rpm. I know they put r200 rears in a ton of things over the years. Are all the gears from any r200 interchangeable? I have tried doing searches to find the answer and read the sticky threads posted in drivetrain and found that there is a 10mm version and a 12mm version. I think I have the 12mm but I'm not sure (may have got my numbers crossed). Any suggestions on where to buy a new set of gears that would work with my setup or a list of interchangeable gears would be much appreciated. Thanks Stewart

Rearened started Howling after I switched trans. Car has been working fine with the auto trans but I switched to a t56 which was a bit longer and the driveshaft was too long. I ran the long driveshaft for roughly 100 miles and after 20 or so miles the rearend started howling when accelerating from ~45 mph and up. The faster I go the louder it gets. It goes silent when I let off the gas. The rearend is an 1989 300 zx turbo r200 with the clutch lsd. I have removed the spacers and added cluches then shimmed the rear chunk to 90 ft. lbs breakaway. Running synthetic 75/90 gear oil with a tube of limited slip juice in it. I had the driveshaft redone and installed it tonight and went for a test drive and its still howling so its not a binding issue. Gear oil looks good with no metal in it or on magnet. Motor is a LS3 with 500 HP so the rear is getting some abuse. I've done several low 11 second quarter mile runs on it with the auto but the t56 with lightened flywheel seams alot more brutal. I have heard that gear wear can cause a howling I hope I don't need a new set of gears. Has anyone else had problems like this or know what might be causing the noise? Thanks Stewart

Got the shortened driveshaft installed and put new gear oil and limited slip additive added. Still howling but only under load from ~45mph and up. Gonna start new thread for just the rearend noise instead of the driveshaft question. Thanks Stewart

The 240z have better aerodynamics than the 280s? My 240 has bumbers removed. No rear wing. No airdam the nose open and I've had it to 147 mph (listed by my Garmen gps). The LS3 and 700r4 trans add a little weight. I guess that would help some but I had it on a friends dirt track car scales recently and it weighed 2400 lbs so not like its heavy or anything. Never felt any lightness. I recently switched over to a t56 trans and will be installing a new autometer electronic speedo to go with it. It goes to 160 mph and with that double overdrive in the T56 it should be pretty easy to peg it.

Hmm.. I checked out my link and its not working. May have to do a search on their website for "lightened bomber" to see them.

Been kicking around the idea of a set of these lightened bomber seats. Great look and very lightweight. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Lightened-Bomber-Seat,20828.html Would be a bit rough on the rear on a long drive I imagine. Would be nice to lighten the car an extra 40-50 lbs though.

Problems.... 20 miles after swapping in the t56 the rearend started howling at about 45-50 mph and got louder the faster I went. It only howls under load and goes silent as soon as I let off the gas. Last night I pulled the driveshaft and took it today to have it shortened by 3/4 of an inch. I drained the gear oil out of the rear to make sure it wasn't eating itself. There was no metal on the magnet and oil came out looking like it is supposed to. Do you guys think it was just from the shaft being too long or that there is something else going on? Never had any noise come out of the rearend before. Never seen one just howl under load like that. Normally they start growling when a bearing is failing or howling when the ring gear is shimmed wrong or the pinion crush sleeve is incorrect. Anyone seen anything like this? I figure if it was a bearing or gears failing the magnet would look like a pom-pom with metal shavings (I had to drive car 80+ miles with it howling like that). Any help would be much appreciated. Trying to get everything back together by friday, as I plan on breaking into the 10's this weekend at the dragstrip Thanks, Stewart

Yes its full when it pours out of the upper plug (not the lower drain one) roughly middle of the diff cover slightly on the left side. I used 80/90 weight synthetic in my diff some people use thicker. I don't know anything about the vlsd I only have exp. with the clutch style ones.

73' 240z with LS3 swap done with a John's cars kit, rearend is r200, and new urethane bushings everywhere, had a 700r4 and driveshaft had about 5/8" of play. Was just enough to be able to remove it from the rearend flange. I recently swapped in a T56 and its about a half inch longer than the 700r4 was. The yolk was the same splined so I slid it in and put everything back together, but now when bolt are out of the driveshaft at the rearend I only have about 1/8" of play. To remove the driveshaft I have to drop the trans mount which dips the rear of the trans to get enough room to remove it. That part is fine by me, I don't plan on removing it often anyways. The question I have is gonna be any binding issues? Everything is supposed to stay pretty much where it is with an independant rear but I know everything is rubber mounted. The way I figure is under load the rear diff is going to try to lift (opening the gap larger) which wouldn't be an issue, but not sure about braking or cornering. I have no unusual pops or grinding but figured I better ask before some appear or if its not a problem at all and I'm worrying over nothing. Thanks Stewart,

Oh I didn't mention I have the same setup. 89 300zx turbo r200 clsd. I did the 6 clutch mod and shimmed it to about 90 ft. lbs. breakaway (bit tight but figured I'd need it with an LS3). Hope that helps so you know we're comparing apples with apples.

I went thru the same thing. I added 2 of the 7oz. bottles of limited slip additive and it stopped. It used to sound like a a hammer was pounding inside my diff when I turned corners at slow speed and after the additive its silent.

I found solution to my leaks and my rust problems. I forget the name of the stuff but it comes in a caulking tube. They sell it at lowes/home depot its ment for fixing leaks on roofs but there are 2 types. the tar based(messy, sticky, never hardens) and the polyurathane based. the poly based is one I'm using. I just redone both my floorboards and bought 6 tubes of the stuff and some heavy pvc gloves and just smeared the stuff all over the bottom side of the car. stuff is great 2 days after aplication (drying time) you have a rubbery coating that keeps all water out. It also is compatible with almost any surface. Will even stick to the original tar based undercoatings.

Same one i'm using with an A1000 pump pushing the juice.

E85 needs to be handle like alcohol (which it mainly is). Drag racers for years have known of the corrosive effects of alcohol (why they run gas thru their systems after a day of racing). E85 = junk imo. Yeah you pay less for it but it eats up your system and it makes less energy (less mpg). I say let the tree huggers pump that stuff in their vehicles all they want but i'll pay $5+ a gallon for race gas before I put that crap in my cars. I prefer my alcohol poured slow over ice with a splash of coke.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140207 Heres a link I posted on how to buy a LS3 cheap from a dealer. I think the price went up from 6200 to 6500 but still killer deal considering ls3 heads flow better than most aftermarket cnc ported ls6 stuff. Can also do the same thing on the ls3 wiring harnes/computer from GM. Think I got mine for 600ish bucks when it lists at almost a grand. Its the same engine that comes in the 2008 vette except it has a hotter cam. Just 20 HP shy of a LS7.